[Killer Kilgore]

Just a question about the CVT belt blower and the exhaust blower, wouldn't/doesn't that rob some of the horsepower from our engines.

Just like a mechanical fan on an engine in our vehicles rob some of the horsepower. That is one reason they have electric fans to cool down the radiator.

Would a bilge fan for a boat supply enough air to keep things cool?

Build a snorkel. Put filter and fan inline. Hook fan to a keyed fused hot so won't leave on accidentally. Remove fan blades from engine. Probably have to do a snorkel for each. Gain a few HP or it has been tried but didn't work.

I don't have any need to attempt. Don't need to go that fast but I seem some others on here that may have a use for it.

I see that most of the bilge fans are rated at 130 CFM would that keep the areas cool enough? AND wouldn't that help the MPG a little?

Just a thought.

[NMKawierider]

Just a question about the CVT belt blower and the exhaust blower, wouldn't/doesn't that rob some of the horsepower from our engines.

Just like a mechanical fan on an engine in our vehicles rob some of the horsepower. That is one reason they have electric fans to cool down the radiator.

Would a bilge fan for a boat supply enough air to keep things cool?

Build a snorkel. Put filter and fan inline. Hook fan to a keyed fused hot so won't leave on accidentally. Remove fan blades from engine. Probably have to do a snorkel for each. Gain a few HP or it has been tried but didn't work.

I don't have any need to attempt. Don't need to go that fast but I seem some others on here that may have a use for it.

I see that most of the bilge fans are rated at 130 CFM would that keep the areas cool enough? AND wouldn't that help the MPG a little?

Just a thought.

Not sure I am completely understanding what you are talking about but let's just say you are talking 100% about pushing air through the CVT system to help cool it. The first thing you should know is that unlike the alternators on cars, the stators are a foxed coil three-phase A/C system using a rectifier to convert that to DC then regulating as needed. More or less electric loads on the system have no effect on load to the engine like cars system. When you are maxed-out, the battery just doesn't get charged and the regulator runs hot.

Ok, next, with nothing restricting the air flow through the CVT system at about 6,000 rpms it's own fan, the one on the back of the primary, will push around 350cfm through the system. Add a filter as I did and that drops. Add dust to that filter and it can stop almost completely. That's why I did put one of those 3" bulge fans in mine...along with a temp gauge, to help me get back to camp before a toasted a belt. When the temp gets over 200 F, some air is better then none. The fan itself in line not running does have some restriction. That's a price that you pay unless you adapted-in a 5" fan. So...there you have it.

[Killer Kilgore]

Right, pushing air thru the CVT system instead of the CVT system sucking in the air.

Was looking at my UForce and seen that it was setup to suck air into the CVT system. Then the other side of engine was setup to suck air and blow it on the exhaust.

A 5" fan system could be doable on mine. The exhaust side anyway. And the CVT side looked like it had the clearance.

You don't have to tell me the woes of a stator and regulator. Had to replace a bad stator on my evinrude 110 and the regular just in case of. And then there was the Yamaha that was a nightmare to correct. Went thru 3 (cheap, junk) regulators and a stator until I finally got OEM and corrected the problem.

I was just thinking out loud about the cooling fans (or blowers as I called them) and was looking on amazon for stuff and the bilge fan popped up.
I said to myself, "self do you think that fan would help you or others get a little more getup out of a engine." And self said "Maybe."

So I thought I'd post it.

I know the mechanical fans has to take come toll on the HP. Don't know how much but some.
I don't know if the electrical system could handle the draw of the fans. Because there would be more needed.

[glenlivet]

Seems to me that we have to accomplish the same amount of work in moving a certain volume of air through the CVT, whether it is done mechanically or electrically. Mechanically, the way it is supplied, the fan is in place as is the ducting. To do that much work (at least 15% of the motors total output) via a forced air fan would need a big heavy motor and fan unit somewhere and a commensurately bigger charging system to handle the additional load. (even for power steering the charging system capacity needed upgrading)

That and the crank driven fan automatically matches RPM to fan output. The faster the motor runs, the faster the fan goes. An electric fan would either be full speed all the time or have to have some sort of circuitry to do what the crank fan does by its nature.
And the weight penalty of all that stuff versus some fins on the inner CVT sheave.
Well I'm beating it to death now.

[NMKawierider]

Seems to me that we have to accomplish the same amount of work in moving a certain volume of air through the CVT, whether it is done mechanically or electrically. Mechanically, the way it is supplied, the fan is in place as is the ducting. To do that much work (at least 15% of the motors total output) via a forced air fan would need a big heavy motor and fan unit somewhere and a commensurately bigger charging system to handle the additional load. (even for power steering the charging system capacity needed upgrading)

That and the crank driven fan automatically matches RPM to fan output. The faster the motor runs, the faster the fan goes. An electric fan would either be full speed all the time or have to have some sort of circuitry to do what the crank fan does by its nature.
And the weight penalty of all that stuff versus some fins on the inner CVT sheave.
Well I'm beating it to death now.

Lol..but you are right. In short, to do what the fins are doing on the primary, you would need a much larger fan...one that probably use up all the extra wattage the stator has and variable speed. To reduce the fin's small load on the engine, one would have to machine them off and re-balance the clutch..with that only being a few ounces, probably little or no noticeable HP gains...now I'm beating it to death...lol   

[574cfmotorider]

Seems to me that we have to accomplish the same amount of work in moving a certain volume of air through the CVT, whether it is done mechanically or electrically. Mechanically, the way it is supplied, the fan is in place as is the ducting. To do that much work (at least 15% of the motors total output) via a forced air fan would need a big heavy motor and fan unit somewhere and a commensurately bigger charging system to handle the additional load. (even for power steering the charging system capacity needed upgrading)

That and the crank driven fan automatically matches RPM to fan output. The faster the motor runs, the faster the fan goes. An electric fan would either be full speed all the time or have to have some sort of circuitry to do what the crank fan does by its nature.
And the weight penalty of all that stuff versus some fins on the inner CVT sheave.
Well I'm beating it to death now.

Lol..but you are right. In short, to do what the fins are doing on the primary, you would need a much larger fan...one that probably use up all the extra wattage the stator has and variable speed. To reduce the fin's small load on the engine, one would have to machine them off and re-balance the clutch..with that only being a few ounces, probably little or no noticeable HP gains...now I'm beating it to death...lol

Hey Kawi,

Knowing what you know now, what is the best route to help cut down on cvt dust and heat on a stock zforce500 setup?  I took your advice and boxed in my air intake between the seats and that has helped tremendously on the air intake side, so no snorkel needed imo there.  As you know I just changed my belt and hope to prolong life.  Is there a simple fan/temp gauge setup that you would recommend that doesn't require massive fabbing?  Thanks man!

[Killer Kilgore]

I found this dual temp sensor on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Thermometer-Waterproof-Temperature-Fahrenheit-Refrigerator/dp/B07WS11X45/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=IS+Icstation+Digital+Thermometer%2C&qid=1629902959&sr=8-3

The leads on the sensor are short but can be extended to whatever length is needed.
It may throw the temp off a little but not enough to be worried about. And it is dual and color coded so you will know which is which.

But you would have to turn on a switch manually.

[NMKawierider]

Hey Kawi,

Knowing what you know now, what is the best route to help cut down on cvt dust and heat on a stock zforce500 setup?  I took your advice and boxed in my air intake between the seats and that has helped tremendously on the air intake side, so no snorkel needed imo there.  As you know I just changed my belt and hope to prolong life.  Is there a simple fan/temp gauge setup that you would recommend that doesn't require massive fabbing?  Thanks man!

Nothing that would require "no" fabrication unfortunately. That entire back half of the machine is a dust-zone and any intake placed within it is subject to large amounts of dust..if it exists in the terrain you ride in. For most people the bladed on the primary move enough air to keep it below 200 degrees F..most of the time but the volume is far more then people think..so that also means far more materials are also pumped through..and not all get ejected. Some stay and get ground-up on CVT parts like roller/slide tracks and helix ramps,bushings and of course belts and sheaves. All this shortens all these part's life. To filter this as I have means a filter must stop all this material from entering but that also means it builds-up on that filter and must get cleaned or cleared often. Even as high as I had my intake stacks there were times when the dust was so bad..it only took 10 miles of forest road-running before the temps started increasing because of this air restriction...Oh, the TrailTech CVT temp gauge is an easy way to keep tabs on that. The inline fan I installed was to be just a helper or boost to help get me back to camp when the filter started plugging up. It has helped but if I was at a start of a ride it still meant I needed to stop and open that can and bang-out that filter...yeah..I was "that" guy a few times...the one that had to stop the ride because he needed to so something no one else did. So..I started the final phase of my intake system and plumbed it in preparation for the S&B particle separator. For mow I topped it with the cheaper Donaldson pre-filter/particle separator but even though it only cut about 50-60% of the total dust from making it to the filters, it has shown me that this is the way to go...as in stop the dust from entering in the first place. The 400-dollars the S&B will cost me looks like it will solve my woos....and if it does what they say, I may be able to go weeks without having to clear that filter. 

So I guess in short, the thing we need to do is to stop the bulk of the abrasive material intake without ever causing a restriction in airflow. A filter will always do..both of those things and even though the CVT intake is in the cab and the best place for it, in some situation it will still get too much of that dust and dirt in it...like mine did...and started this long and expensive journey. All the money I spent...and will spend on mine would have bought enough parts to rebuild my clutches and replaced the belt many times.

There are times when I ask myself why I didn't just put the temp gauge on it and stick a little better filter pad in the OE intake and just clean it when necessary....and just replace the warn parts when they need it. Maybe..just maybe..this is rout to go for some people.   Just my 2-cents.   

[NMKawierider]

I found this dual temp sensor on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Thermometer-Waterproof-Temperature-Fahrenheit-Refrigerator/dp/B07WS11X45/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=IS+Icstation+Digital+Thermometer%2C&qid=1629902959&sr=8-3

The leads on the sensor are short but can be extended to whatever length is needed.
It may throw the temp off a little but not enough to be worried about. And it is dual and color coded so you will know which is which.

But you would have to turn on a switch manually.

That one might work fine but I would trust one made for the application.

[574cfmotorider]

I found this dual temp sensor on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Thermometer-Waterproof-Temperature-Fahrenheit-Refrigerator/dp/B07WS11X45/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=IS+Icstation+Digital+Thermometer%2C&qid=1629902959&sr=8-3

The leads on the sensor are short but can be extended to whatever length is needed.
It may throw the temp off a little but not enough to be worried about. And it is dual and color coded so you will know which is which.

But you would have to turn on a switch manually.

That one might work fine but I would trust one made for the application.

I bought the TrailTech cvt temp.  Did you mount yours right on the exhaust side of the cvt housing?  Do I have to pull plastics to get to it or can I get to it from the engine access door?

[NMKawierider]

I found this dual temp sensor on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Thermometer-Waterproof-Temperature-Fahrenheit-Refrigerator/dp/B07WS11X45/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=IS+Icstation+Digital+Thermometer%2C&qid=1629902959&sr=8-3

The leads on the sensor are short but can be extended to whatever length is needed.
It may throw the temp off a little but not enough to be worried about. And it is dual and color coded so you will know which is which.

But you would have to turn on a switch manually.

That one might work fine but I would trust one made for the application.

I bought the TrailTech cvt temp.  Did you mount yours right on the exhaust side of the cvt housing?  Do I have to pull plastics to get to it or can I get to it from the engine access door?

I had all my plastics off already so...it was easy. Not sure the access door in the bed will give you enough access...also not just the grill inside will either but worth a shot. Because mine is on the dash I had to rout the probe wire so I went through the center console..it was also taken out. Maybe you can fish it through without taking it out...a bit of a PITA. Yeah I mounted the sensor in the discharge boot as close to the case cover as possible to get the hottest air I could. 

[574cfmotorider]

I found this dual temp sensor on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Thermometer-Waterproof-Temperature-Fahrenheit-Refrigerator/dp/B07WS11X45/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=IS+Icstation+Digital+Thermometer%2C&qid=1629902959&sr=8-3

The leads on the sensor are short but can be extended to whatever length is needed.
It may throw the temp off a little but not enough to be worried about. And it is dual and color coded so you will know which is which.

But you would have to turn on a switch manually.

That one might work fine but I would trust one made for the application.

I bought the TrailTech cvt temp.  Did you mount yours right on the exhaust side of the cvt housing?  Do I have to pull plastics to get to it or can I get to it from the engine access door?

I had all my plastics off already so...it was easy. Not sure the access door in the bed will give you enough access...also not just the grill inside will either but worth a shot. Because mine is on the dash I had to rout the probe wire so I went through the center console..it was also taken out. Maybe you can fish it through without taking it out...a bit of a PITA. Yeah I mounted the sensor in the discharge boot as close to the case cover as possible to get the hottest air I could.

Any reason why I shouldn't install in the cvt cover itself?  Mine's plastic.  I suppose there would need to be sufficient cable to be able to remove the cover for maintenance and stuff.

[NMKawierider]

I found this dual temp sensor on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Thermometer-Waterproof-Temperature-Fahrenheit-Refrigerator/dp/B07WS11X45/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=IS+Icstation+Digital+Thermometer%2C&qid=1629902959&sr=8-3

The leads on the sensor are short but can be extended to whatever length is needed.
It may throw the temp off a little but not enough to be worried about. And it is dual and color coded so you will know which is which.

But you would have to turn on a switch manually.

That one might work fine but I would trust one made for the application.

I bought the TrailTech cvt temp.  Did you mount yours right on the exhaust side of the cvt housing?  Do I have to pull plastics to get to it or can I get to it from the engine access door?

I had all my plastics off already so...it was easy. Not sure the access door in the bed will give you enough access...also not just the grill inside will either but worth a shot. Because mine is on the dash I had to rout the probe wire so I went through the center console..it was also taken out. Maybe you can fish it through without taking it out...a bit of a PITA. Yeah I mounted the sensor in the discharge boot as close to the case cover as possible to get the hottest air I could.

Any reason why I shouldn't install in the cvt cover itself?  Mine's plastic.  I suppose there would need to be sufficient cable to be able to remove the cover for maintenance and stuff.

Put it where you want but just make sure that:
1- It is in the main stream of the air flow after anything that can generate heat...ie in the hottest position possible.
2- The removal of the cover multiple times won't in time effect the longevity or lifespan of the sensor or cable.
3- That the sensor cable is routed in such a way as not to be effected by heat, vibration or other operational conditions. 

[574cfmotorider]

I found this dual temp sensor on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Thermometer-Waterproof-Temperature-Fahrenheit-Refrigerator/dp/B07WS11X45/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=IS+Icstation+Digital+Thermometer%2C&qid=1629902959&sr=8-3

The leads on the sensor are short but can be extended to whatever length is needed.
It may throw the temp off a little but not enough to be worried about. And it is dual and color coded so you will know which is which.

But you would have to turn on a switch manually.

That one might work fine but I would trust one made for the application.

I bought the TrailTech cvt temp.  Did you mount yours right on the exhaust side of the cvt housing?  Do I have to pull plastics to get to it or can I get to it from the engine access door?

I had all my plastics off already so...it was easy. Not sure the access door in the bed will give you enough access...also not just the grill inside will either but worth a shot. Because mine is on the dash I had to rout the probe wire so I went through the center console..it was also taken out. Maybe you can fish it through without taking it out...a bit of a PITA. Yeah I mounted the sensor in the discharge boot as close to the case cover as possible to get the hottest air I could.

Any reason why I shouldn't install in the cvt cover itself?  Mine's plastic.  I suppose there would need to be sufficient cable to be able to remove the cover for maintenance and stuff.

Put it where you want but just make sure that:
1- It is in the main stream of the air flow after anything that can generate heat...ie in the hottest position possible.
2- The removal of the cover multiple times won't in time effect the longevity or lifespan of the sensor or cable.
3- That the sensor cable is routed in such a way as not to be effected by heat, vibration or other operational conditions.

You make some good points.  I think in the boot would be best, deal with it once then never have to have it in the way again...

[574cfmotorider]

I found this dual temp sensor on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Thermometer-Waterproof-Temperature-Fahrenheit-Refrigerator/dp/B07WS11X45/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=IS+Icstation+Digital+Thermometer%2C&qid=1629902959&sr=8-3

The leads on the sensor are short but can be extended to whatever length is needed.
It may throw the temp off a little but not enough to be worried about. And it is dual and color coded so you will know which is which.

But you would have to turn on a switch manually.

That one might work fine but I would trust one made for the application.

I bought the TrailTech cvt temp.  Did you mount yours right on the exhaust side of the cvt housing?  Do I have to pull plastics to get to it or can I get to it from the engine access door?

I had all my plastics off already so...it was easy. Not sure the access door in the bed will give you enough access...also not just the grill inside will either but worth a shot. Because mine is on the dash I had to rout the probe wire so I went through the center console..it was also taken out. Maybe you can fish it through without taking it out...a bit of a PITA. Yeah I mounted the sensor in the discharge boot as close to the case cover as possible to get the hottest air I could.

Any reason why I shouldn't install in the cvt cover itself?  Mine's plastic.  I suppose there would need to be sufficient cable to be able to remove the cover for maintenance and stuff.

Put it where you want but just make sure that:
1- It is in the main stream of the air flow after anything that can generate heat...ie in the hottest position possible.
2- The removal of the cover multiple times won't in time effect the longevity or lifespan of the sensor or cable.
3- That the sensor cable is routed in such a way as not to be effected by heat, vibration or other operational conditions.

What did you secure the wire to on the way through the center console?