Been searching and searching for full doors for my UForce and finally had enough. Been a while since I bent pipe but don't think I did to bad. Now I gotta make mounting tabs for the aluminum door skins, some hinges and then figure out my latch setup.

Your off to a good start. Looking forward to seeing more.

Your off to a good start. Looking forward to seeing more.

Thanks. Not a bad 2-1/2hrs work

Looks great is that 3/4" EMT because i was thinking of doing something similar for my Z?

Looks great is that 3/4" EMT because i was thinking of doing something similar for my Z?

Thanks allygerry. It is actually 1/2" EMT. I wasn't sure what size I wanted to use so I got a few sticks of each. I made the first bottom framework out of 3/4" and it stuck out further than I liked. Will have two mounting tabs on the front upright, one on the center of the bottom, one were the 45* bend goes vertical and one at the roll cage so it should be plenty rigid. Turned out to be a lot simpler than I expected. Been out of the fab game for sometime now. Was nice to get back at it. Was going to do it in aluminum but not set up to weld that here at the house right now

Looks great, never know ,you may just have started a side business.  I think you would be able to make the slam latch work with that.

it looks like nice work but I would be worried about metal fatigue after some time of beating down the trails and the stress on the metal from the opening and closing.  The problem area's will likely show up where the hinges mount and where the "striker/latch" mount.  Before you get to deep into the project you may want to rethink your material choice.  Im not trying to dog you or your work because it looks nice.  But in the off road world you should always build it to be twice as strong as you can possibly imagine it needing to be. When I built my last set of doors for my Yamaha Rhino I went with 1/8" thick square steel tubing with 1/8" aluminum skins.  After years of bouncing them off trees and rocks and opening and closing them they never flexed or changed shape or needed readjustments.

Anyway nice start to your project and keep the pictures coming.  Nothing like doing something that others are not and being happy with your results.

good job, i will be doing the same as soon as the summer camping season is over, just cant bring my self to pay $650 the dealer wants, studying the dealer one they are made in a very simple way, the door latch can be had at a hard ware store for $10 !. I think i am going to sheath my doors in plexi, it will give the illusion of space in the cab , looking forward to seeing the finished product 

Callum, I like the plexi idea, but use something like Lexan. (Which can run you big $$$) or at least some sort of "safety" plexi. Don't want sharp pieces of plastic going through a body part , God forbid, a roll over or a slide into a tree. Cool idea just some food for thought. And lookin out for a brother.

I was tempted to make PVC frames to keep the weight down, would be very inexpensive , and easily made. BUT, for the same reasons I kinda scrapped the idea because of safety.

it looks like nice work but I would be worried about metal fatigue after some time of beating down the trails and the stress on the metal from the opening and closing.  The problem area's will likely show up where the hinges mount and where the "striker/latch" mount.  Before you get to deep into the project you may want to rethink your material choice.  Im not trying to dog you or your work because it looks nice.  But in the off road world you should always build it to be twice as strong as you can possibly imagine it needing to be. When I built my last set of doors for my Yamaha Rhino I went with 1/8" thick square steel tubing with 1/8" aluminum skins.  After years of bouncing them off trees and rocks and opening and closing them they never flexed or changed shape or needed readjustments.

Anyway nice start to your project and keep the pictures coming.  Nothing like doing something that others are not and being happy with your results.

EMT is easy to work with so for my first venture on door building I thought it would be a good material to start with. If they don't hold up well I can switch to rigid from EMT. Once the tracks are laid the path is easy to follow.

Looks great, never know ,you may just have started a side business.  I think you would be able to make the slam latch work with that.

Thanks. I was thinkin of using my original door latch from the half door that were on it.

Day2. Bottom door frame complete. Gonna redo the door frame not liking how high it is in the front. Going to lower the top in the front about 2" and raise the top in the back an inch

Looking good, so far. I plan on making some for my Z.

Looking good, so far. I plan on making some for my Z.

Thanks spaceman78. If ya look at the super atv doors for the ZForce they are built the same way. It's not really that hard actually. I did a lot of sitting on the stool and staring at my UForce then said well I guess I should start bending and see what happens