[Jimbowatson2002]

Can someone help me out and explain the front locker to me. When I engage mine, sometimes both grab and sometimes only one grabs... Oh yeah 17 z800trail

[NMKawierider]

Well, it's basically a two-step process. Step-one when you engage the 4wd it just locks the spider gear section to the carrier section leaving it in what's called OPEN state. At that point it acts like any other differential using the spider gears to allow one side to spin at a different rate then the other if needed for making turns.. and as in any differential with no limited-slip packs or cones, the tire with the least traction will spin while the other...well doesn't. However if both tires have equal traction, both tires will pull the same...until one doesn't. Step-two is the diff lock. This slides the coupler to lock basically both axles together so both has the same power being applied through the ring gear and carrier...and both pull the same. Tougher to turn...and under the right conditions cases do crack.. but it is the max traction you can get. 

[Jimbowatson2002]

Yeah not to sound smart... But I know the difference between 4wd and locked. I know that when the locker is engaged then both tires "should" spin BUT however every once in a while (with the locker engaged) only 1 front tire is still digging. Thanks for answering back , like I said not tryin to sound like a smart ass I guess I should've put more info out there.

Well, it's basically a two-step process. Step-one when you engage the 4wd it just locks the drive line to the pinion. At that point it acts like any other differential using the spider gears to allow one side to spin at a different rate then the other if needed for making turns.. and as in any differential with no limited-slip packs or cones, the tire with the least traction will spin while the other...well doesn't. However if both tires have equal traction, both tires will pull the same...until one doesn't. Step-two is the diff lock. This slides a coupler to lock both axles together so both has the same power being applied...and both pull the same. Tougher to turn but it is the max traction you can get.

[NMKawierider]

There are some parts related to the actuator that tend to bend allowing only partial operation or break completely. Will have to pull it to inspect.

[Jimbowatson2002]

well that's shitty on a month old machine. Should be warranty right?

[REDRIDER]

that would be warranty if the actuator or gear stripped out. When you put it in diff lock does the little X between the front and rear tire icon on the dash blink then go solid? the icons will blink when you initially hit the button then when the actuator moves it the icon will then stay solid. Either way it should be covered by warranty. Hopefully your dealer will get you in and taken care of in less than a month..

[Jimbowatson2002]

Yes the light goes solid also you can hear the actuator go click in

[glenlivet]

Just throwing it out there and you may already know, It is safest on driveline parts (and not just CF's) to have the steering as close to straight ahead as possible when using lock and heavy throttle. Big steering inputs especially full lock, loads up the parts and risks things breaking.
And engaging lock must be done when the driveline is in an unloaded state. Only a foolish or naive operator would think, 'Well I think it's slipping, better hit the 'lock' button now'. 

If the X doesn't go solid right away then a little back and forth on the steering wheel should allow the splines to line up and click in.
You probably know that.

[Jimbowatson2002]

That's day one stuff, turns out the splines on the axle were toast some how

[REDRIDER]

Thanks for the update.

[NMKawierider]

That's interesting because I have play between both axles on the rear.. and as they both plug-into the one carrier I have to assume its looseness in the splines....and it does appear to be getting looser....along with the other issues.

[REDRIDER]

That's interesting because I have play between both axles on the rear.. and as they both plug-into the one carrier I have to assume its looseness in the splines....and it does appear to be getting looser....along with the other issues.

Now to know whether it is the splines on the axle or in the diff is another question. The rear isn't like the front, no spiders to have play in I believe

[NMKawierider]

That's interesting because I have play between both axles on the rear.. and as they both plug-into the one carrier I have to assume its looseness in the splines....and it does appear to be getting looser....along with the other issues.

Now to know whether it is the splines on the axle or in the diff is another question. The rear isn't like the front, no spiders to have play in I believe

Right...exactly. Both axles just plug-into the one solid carrier....as I recall. Man  I hope I get through this last ride of the season.....

[REDRIDER]

That's interesting because I have play between both axles on the rear.. and as they both plug-into the one carrier I have to assume its looseness in the splines....and it does appear to be getting looser....along with the other issues.

Now to know whether it is the splines on the axle or in the diff is another question. The rear isn't like the front, no spiders to have play in I believe

Right...exactly. Both axles just plug-into the one solid carrier....as I recall. Man  I hope I get through this last ride of the season.....

Well the axle I got for the rear was heavy duty and I put the measurements in one of my posts about the repair after breaking some stuff. They were almost half the price of rhino axles which are just way over priced if you ask me. If it's the axles anyway.

[Jimbowatson2002]

What brand axle did you use?