I have a 2021 CForce 600 Tour.  I like the rear seat for 2 people.  However, it is an added  and  "Sail" against the wind in trailering and awkward for going backward doing Snow-Plow duty.  CF Moto makes a Infill Rear Rack for the 600T, but it is beyond my budget.

I had been looking for a damaged rear seat to get the bottom attachment mechanism.  I did find a damage seat eventually.  I decided to make my own "Infill Rear Rack Extension".

I bought a junk pretty solid hunter's tree stand at2nd hand store for $2.  I just wanted the metal parts.  Metal would have cost $30-$40  if new at big metal place. The stand had expanded steel mesh welded to it for a floor.  It was kind of a pain to grind off all the little welds around the outside edge holding the expanded metal, but doable. 

Lucky, the width of the floor part was almost perfect for the rear supports of seat frame.  I put a level on CFMoto rear rack and tried to get everything to fit the same level plane.  I cut the seat supports lower by the thickness of stand frame + 5/8" plywood for top piece.

I cut the tree stand up and started to lay out some sort of frame.  The stand-seat made nice size "wings" for the forward part of frame.  Other parts were cut to fit using level, tape to mark on, and metal chop saw.  i drilled 1/4" holes for mounting bolts at front, back and sides before welding anything together.

Welding was done with an 65 year old AC 220v stick welder.  It was doing fine with 3/32" rod, then it started blowing holes in the metal stand parts.  It took a while to figure out, turn it off, let it cool, turn it on again. I managed to get the parts welded together.  Some welds were pretty crappy looking, but would hold OK.

I had planned to make the rack extension similar to the CFMoto looking style.  I used a piece of cardboard to cut and shape a rack.  First design was terrible, did not match angles of CF600.  So adapt, cut another one.  This one was better and matched more of the CF600 style.  A few more taped on adds and it looked OK.

I had a 4' x 4" piece of 5/8" birch  covered plywood, saved for about 6 years.  I started cutting out the shape and WHOA! The inside of this piece was little rows of strips next to each other, squashed, gaps, just junk!  This was the absolute worse piece of plywood I have ever seen.  You cut it and there are little "canyons" between strips.  I planned to curve the outer edge with router, and this would leave a total mess, piece of junk.  %#*&&- bummer.  Plan B.

I went to Home Depot and bought a 2' x 4' x 13/32" BC plywood.  This one was solid, no gaps on edges.  Cost $18.50.  I laid the pattern out so the longest straight edge was already there on the 4' side.  I cut curves with a jig saw after I cut the straight parts with 7" plywood blade circular saw.  I routed the edges outside of garage, makes too much dust!  I match drilled all of the holes in metal frame to the wood top clamped in correct position.

OK, put wood filler on rack frame.  Oopps, it was thinner than planned 5/8" wood.  Plan C.  I have nylon washers 1/16", 1/8", and 3/16" thick X ~1.25" diameter..  Insert under wood, raise, lower, adjust.  The I notice that CF600 rack is NOT level like the rack I just built.  Take off the CF600 rack, space it up 3/32" in the front (forward) part.  Adjust spacers under wood to nearly match CF600 angle.  The front of CF600 OEM rack is lower than the rear, but mine is now less downward angle.  The thinner wood part gave me the idea to use "spacers", similar to the CFMoto original rack-design.  Height is adjustable up/down, easy.

I re-drilled holes for bolts to 15/64".   Paint steel rack gloss black, paint on shelf for stuff.  Painted parts down in garage (cold), and then hang in kitchen to dry (warm). Paint and sand and paint wood part with high heat flat black - on the shelf for other projects.  I then sprayed gloss clear on the wood which made it look almost like a matt surface, fine with me.  Nyloc nuts, bolts, and washers are all stainless steel - part of the assorted jars of nuts and bolts.

Final assembly easy, everything was "match drilled" and fit great.  The rear rack filler can go ON/OFF just like the seat.  If no passenger, the flat rack.  Trailering, CF600 as flat as it gets.  Rear seat does not get bugs and junk on it, useless wear.

Total cost was about $45. 
Tools: Metal Chop saw, Circular saw, Jig saw, Bench grinder coarse+fine wheels, small hand angle grinder, AC 220v BuzzBox welder, welding rod on hand -nothing special, misc. files and sandpaper.

I just located my 1.312" diameter forstner bit, so I may/may not counter sink the stainless washers+bolt top to make flush.  Dunno if worth the effort, not much wood left after that to hold everything together.

One photo is the original expanded wire floor for tree stand to see how it fit the rack layout and CF600.
Whatever.
YMMV

Good job.  Seems like it would take a lot of lucky finds to replicate!   

Good job.  Seems like it would take a lot of lucky finds to replicate!   

Perhaps not so difficult.  There are rental places for ATVs that have pretty beat up ATVs.  There were some I saw that had been badly abused and so on.  Perhaps odd, but many of them were the 2-seat version of CF600 and CF800.  I have no idea how they make $$$ when the product is abused and wrecked which doesn't make sense.

Still. some places rent snowmobiles and jet skis, so it may be possible.

thanks for comment.
Cheers,

YMMV

PS_ Moderator-  Perhaps this Should be moved to CForce 600/625 area?  If so, go forit.

I decided I did not like the shine of stainless steel bolts and washers.  I also did not like the bolts sticking up.  They could grind a hole in a cooler or something just from normal bouncing around, etc.  I decided to make them flush with surface.

I found my Forstner bit, dicked around with the drill press until I figured out how to make it stop at a certain depth.  It has what look like 1/16" marks on it, but they are not 1/16", something different or odd.  Drill press made in Taiwan, duh.

Same rattle-can flat black High Heat paint, final coat satin clear coat,  More time putting papers over counter for overspray than actually doing the painting. 

Looks better IMO.  Results below:

YMMV