Hello, i have acquired a cf500 that doesnt start. I think i have traced the problem to the woodruff key having moved on the flywheel as the tdc mark on the flywheel is way out when the piston is at TDC. I bought the correct puller but , my god the flywheel just doesnt want to budge, plenty of heat , the right too and i am stressing about putting so much force that it destroys the end of the craknshaft. Any advice??

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

Never put the tip straight on the end of the crank shaft. Put the bolt back in but backed out several millimeters to push against and grease the tip and the threads of the puller. The bolt may..like other makes..have a centering dimple in the center for the puller. If not that's OK. Yes, many have destroyed the end of the crank with one of these pullers. Use the bolt.

Hi thanks for the advice. I wasn't that enamoured with putting the bolt back into the end of the crankshaft as i was worried about the amount of force on it messing internal threads up. So i constructed a pad to go between the puller and the crankshaft end. It took a hell of a lot of force but i got it off. The taper is damaged by the key breaking and gouging the shaft. Ill repair it best i can and loctite the taper.

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

Being preped properly and proper torque keeps it in place. The key does not hold it..it only aligns the timing. The tapper of the shaft and the hub's wedge fit is what holds it. It wasn't torqued high enough or it was over-torked and stretched. If stretched it will have to be replaced. Need to check that. Check the book but those are usually 90+ftlbs and there can be nothing between the two surfaces...not even fingerprint oils sometimes. Besides, if the harden steel of the crankshaft and steel key didn't stop it from moving, loc-tite on smooth surfaces sure won't.

Thanks , good info. Before seeing your reply i was looking into thses kinds of fixes. What are your thoughts?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bezP0s0NtLc

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

Just that on some like Kawasaki, the final position of the rotor (and primary) is critical and removing material will cause it to end up farther on then it was. Possibly CFM isn't so critical and cleaning up the mating surfaces...if scared..may not be a bad idea. However there is also the thoughts that there is far more contact area between shiny surfaces then scratched. Think of a drag strip's starting point using knobby tires instead of slicks. At the very least I would go a few extra ftlbs of torque over what the book says...especially sense the keyway is damaged.