[Nay Nay]

We have a 2017 that is less than 3 months out of warranty and only has 220 miles on it.  It has only been on trails, still breaking it in.  Out on a ride in the woods we shut it off.  When we were ready to take off, it would not start. 

We put it on a trailer and took it to the dealership for repairs.  Here's the short version of the story.  They said they spent hours on the phone with a CF Moto tech that walked them through the electrical system step by step to check each connection. They said they switched the ECM and it started up.  When I got to the dealership they said they got it running by replacing the warning switch and a 15 amp fuse.  They did not test drive it.  Put it on the trailer, brought it home, it started.  Drove it around for about 2 miles.  Parked it at home shut it off.  It would not restart.

After a phone conversation we replaced the regulator per the dealership's mechanic.  Still won't start.  We decided to replace the ignition switch.  No luck there.  All the lights on dash work and there is not an error code.  We have reset the kill switch.  We rechecked all fuses and the warning switch again. It doesn't even try to crank.  There is NO sound when we turn the key.

What should we try next?  Anyone have any suggestions?

[NMKawierider]

We have a 2017 that is less than 3 months out of warranty and only has 220 miles on it.  It has only been on trails, still breaking it in.  Out on a ride in the woods we shut it off.  When we were ready to take off, it would not start. 

We put it on a trailer and took it to the dealership for repairs.  Here's the short version of the story.  They said they spent hours on the phone with a CF Moto tech that walked them through the electrical system step by step to check each connection. They said they switched the ECM and it started up.  When I got to the dealership they said they got it running by replacing the warning switch and a 15 amp fuse.  They did not test drive it.  Put it on the trailer, brought it home, it started.  Drove it around for about 2 miles.  Parked it at home shut it off.  It would not restart.

After a phone conversation we replaced the regulator per the dealership's mechanic.  Still won't start.  We decided to replace the ignition switch.  No luck there.  All the lights on dash work and there is not an error code.  We have reset the kill switch.  We rechecked all fuses and the warning switch again. It doesn't even try to crank.  There is NO sound when we turn the key.

What should we try next?  Anyone have any suggestions?

What "Warning" switch? Check the kill switch as they do get water in them and corrode the connections inside. If you do not have fuel pump sound then it's a given that the none of the control systems have power so..check that switch first, then the main fuse under the seat, then the fuse box by the column. Need to pull the plug wire off the rear plug, plug-in another spark plug or screwdriver and see if it has spark while cranking. If so, ohm-out the CPS per the manual. You can get a free one here under ZForce 800.  It also has a trouble-shooter that may help.

[Nay Nay]

Thank you.  We have followed all of the steps you have outlined.  The switch is operational and we hear the fuel pump turn on and off.  The mainuses are good.  All fuses in the column are good.  The plug is not getting any spark because the motor is NOT turning over. 
What should we try now?

[Nay Nay]

p.sThe warning switch you asked about is a relay switch

[NMKawierider]

Now check the battery connections and the ground cable which will be on the engine, on one of the belt cover bolts behind the driver's seat..tough to get to but check it. Also the positive cable at the other end at the starter solenoid. Also it's hard to check but the main 30 amp fuse under the driver's seat..and if you have PS there are two, the holders are known to have bad internal crimps. The fuse will be OK, but current won't pass through it so need to probe the down-side.

[Nay Nay]

ok.  We have checked all battery connections you suggested.  They all are good.  The 30 amp fuses under the seat are good.  So we have checked everything you said.  What do you think we should do next.

[Nay Nay]

i forgot to add that we charged the battery too.  That was all good. 

[Nay Nay]

Do you think there could be problems with the wiring harness?  Is there any way to check it ourselves.  We are not finding info about the wiring harness (diagrams, etc.) in the manual.

[NMKawierider]

Do you think there could be problems with the wiring harness?  Is there any way to check it ourselves.  We are not finding info about the wiring harness (diagrams, etc.) in the manual.

Stickied at the top of the 800 section along with the manuals is the wiring diagram. Could have a problem..but if not some connection or some sensor I am inclined to think its ECU-related.

Here's the diagram:
https://files.acrobat.com/a/preview/42028b2e-681e-4bc5-8988-932da3a87675

[Nay Nay]

Is the ecu under the hood above the steering wheel?  Is this something we can replace ourselves?  If so where would you recommend we order this part from?

Also, shouldn't our dealership be able to connect our vehicle to a diagnostic machine in their shop to accurately pin point this? Do you think it would be better to have them order and replace this part?

By the way, we sure do appreciate your help and willingness to share your knowledge.  Thank you.

[NMKawierider]

Is the ecu under the hood above the steering wheel?  Is this something we can replace ourselves?  If so where would you recommend we order this part from?

Also, shouldn't our dealership be able to connect our vehicle to a diagnostic machine in their shop to accurately pin point this? Do you think it would be better to have them order and replace this part?

By the way, we sure do appreciate your help and willingness to share your knowledge.  Thank you.

Because they are expensive I hesitate to point you in that direction and yes, your dealership should have been able to find this problem easily. These machines ate pretty basic and copies of older tech systems. I'm not sure but I think the ECU is near the engine and what's over the column is the EPS control unit. But as I recall there is two boxes there so one may be the ECU...but I remember seeing one by the engine when I had the storage access off.  Is there anyone else you can take it to? Also...does it run at all? or does it just crank?..or does it even crank? There is a light on the dash called the MIL warning light. It will be on and flash a series of codes if there is a problem with any sensors or the ECU or any part of the EFI system. Problem is, it's on until it starts if all is OK. It's here:

[ctdls]

They said they switched the ECM and it started up.

Did they leave this ECM in or did they re install the original?

[glenlivet]

My confidence in the dealership mechanic, as described here, is low. If indeed he suggested replacing the regulator as an attempted fix on a machine that has a topped up battery and 'will not start' then that quite unrelated action smacks of 'throwing parts at the problem and hoping for success.'

In an earlier post you said there's no spark because 'the motor is not turning over'.
That should be easy to track down, giving consideration to the difficult access to components these things often present.
Does it click or is it silent when you try to start it? Have you loosened moved and re-tightened all the big-wire connections? Don't go by, "It's OK, it's tight" there can be poor connections that still seem tight. Move em.
Use an ohm meter and check the started motor for continuity. Ohms scale, a low one. Zero ohms is dead.