[NMKawierider]

thanks nwk what filter are you runnung on your clutch intake if i can ask?

I was running this one but down in the bed it was becoming caked with dirt in less then 30 road miles.



Now I am in the middle of coming up with snorkels or stacks for both and using these inline filters and a booster fan. Just using the filter and the clamps from these.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-3-Filter-Box-Title-Carbon-Fiber-Induction-Ram-Cold-Air-Intake-System/401234990947?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

They will both be topped with these about 3"s below the roof line to get out of the dust-zone:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Fit-Off-Road-Replacement-Mudding-Snorkel-Head-Air-Intake-Ram-3-inlet/322087455022?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

[Jimbo]

thanks nwk what filter are you runnung on your clutch intake if i can ask?

I was running this one but down in the bed it was becoming caked with dirt in less then 30 road miles.



Now I am in the middle of coming up with snorkels or stacks for both and using these inline filters and a booster fan. Just using the filter and the clamps from these.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-3-Filter-Box-Title-Carbon-Fiber-Induction-Ram-Cold-Air-Intake-System/401234990947?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

They will both be topped with these about 3"s below the roof line to get out of the dust-zone:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Fit-Off-Road-Replacement-Mudding-Snorkel-Head-Air-Intake-Ram-3-inlet/322087455022?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

What kind of filters are in those canisters, paper?

[NMKawierider]

Not sure but they are a dry-type like this one also cleanable with water so might be the same except longer, pleated cone type with cotton microfiber. Just guessing cause it doesn't say on any of these anywhere. I do plan on modifying the engine intake canister to take a dual stage Uni or TwinAir. I have several of those laying around.

[brian smith]

do you have a chart on clutch and slider weight setups that would tell me what would happen in the a b c and 1234 settings?

[NMKawierider]

do you have a chart on clutch and slider weight setups that would tell me what would happen in the a b c and 1234 settings?

We have this one in the How Tos for the secondary positions.



The amount of degrees is the amount of preload each setting puts on the springs to set the helix back on the ramp so a standard degree wheel is useful for a visual.




I'm currently on A2 and can say twisting that spring just that 58 degrees on assembly was starting to be a MoFo. Its also overkill especially with these 22 gram sliders so I think I'll go back to B2 cause it really didn't help the backshifting up sand dunes that much anyway....and as is it screams just to do 45 down fire roads. It also makes the belt run hotter at speed I believe then B2.

[brian smith]

 so with everything we have been discussing about clutching my question now is this how much does a gram on the sliders effect things over all? and thanks for the secondary clutch degree chart.and can you help me with understanding the back shift and how that all works?

[NMKawierider]

so with everything we have been discussing about clutching my question now is this how much does a gram on the sliders effect things over all? and thanks for the secondary clutch degree chart.and can you help me with understanding the back shift and how that all works?

On the Grams, remember it isn't just one gram. There are 8 rollers or sliders or a one gram each change is 8 grams total. I can't tell you exactly how much change there will be but consider that it takes 2500 RPM to close the clutches enough to move say...5mph. With about 8 grams less the engine has to spin about 3000 RPM to generate enough force to close the clutches enough to go that same 5mph. But, consider this- it is spinning faster and as such it doesn't have to close as far..lower gear ratio. That also means more power because of that lower ratio and that the engine is up closer to its power band.

Backshifting on these is a bit more tricky because they don't work as well as others. But the general idea is that the helix in the driven or secondary senses increased load on the clutch and because of how its made with ramps, the combination of that load on those ramps and belt causes them to resist further shiftout and at some load point, to actually back shift by sliding back down the ramps. Now these CV Techs have a problem doing that because of the design as the increased friction between their friction pads and the ramps cause it to delay or sometimes not even backshift. I for one notice this and also increased as the spring preload is increased. Now clutches with roller or lever or even lubed slotted helix systems don't have this problem. I actually had better backshifting at C1 then at A2....although hill climbing is better on A2, it's only because it isn't shifted-out at far. If I hit a long steep hill at say..20mph...it flat will not backshift until it get under 5mph ..unless I take my foot off the gas for a split second to get the pressure off that helix. Then it will back shift. But taking your foot off the gas on a hill climb.. just isn't natural...lol.

[brian smith]

thanks nmk for helping me better understand how these work my dr. pulley sliders will be here tomorrow excited to get my machine back together and try it out i am thinking i am really gonna like the more bottom end power with the 27" tires on it what i am also trying to figure out with the clutching is if i like the power were it is at with the 27" tires were i would set the clutches up with the 29" tires to get same results and not run into any issues.

[brian smith]

hello nmk i got sliders installed all back together and i cant get me belt to come back to the top of the secondary any help would be great.

[chuddly]

You should just need to put it in neutral and rotate the sheave and the belt will work its way back up

[NMKawierider]

You should just need to put it in neutral and rotate the sheave and the belt will work its way back up

X2 and be sure the little bolt was taken back out...the one that spread the sheaves. Just jeep rotating it like chuddly says, it takes a bit. I also assume you did set the helix's back on the ramps during reassembly.

[brian smith]

Do u have a pic of sliders setting in the clutch other than pic that come with them do they actually set pretty flat against the back of housing with wear pads straight up?

[NMKawierider]

Do u have a pic of sliders setting in the clutch other than pic that come with them do they actually set pretty flat against the back of housing with wear pads straight up?

Not a CFM clutch but same setup. Ramps toward the outside. Just remember they sling-out and slide down the cam plate pushing the movable sheave in.

http://members.modernvespa.net/joe_bulva/uploads/dsc01341_183.jpg

[REDRIDER]

You know, I never used the bolt to spread the secondary when I did mine. I unbolted the primary took the front half off and there wasn't really any tension on the belt do I just unbolted the secondary and took it off with the belt in it. I did the reverse to install and never spread the secondary.  Just thought about that after NMK's comment about the bolt in the secondary

[brian smith]

I'm pretty sure I didn't have them in right the first time pulled it back apart then everything went back together right