[brian smith]

so what is going to happen if i do the clutches on my machine and not the tires at this point?

[NMKawierider]

so what is going to happen if i do the clutches on my machine and not the tires at this point?

Just a lot more low end power with a hair-loss of top end speed. It's OK...you will like it

[brian smith]

thanks for all your guys help the extra low end will be nice were we ride

[brian smith]

can you explain the clutch to me is the lighter the sliders the quicker it engages? i have never worked on this style clutch i have worked on snowmobile clutches i would really like to understand what to do to get what i want same goes for the secondary clutch what the spring settings do thanks

[NMKawierider]

can you explain the clutch to me is the lighter the sliders the quicker it engages? i have never worked on this style clutch i have worked on snowmobile clutches i would really like to understand what to do to get what i want same goes for the secondary clutch what the spring settings do thanks

Like any CVT system, the primary or drive clutch uses centrifugal force to close the sheaves onto the belt. The lighter the flyweights...or in this case rollers/sliders, the higher the RPMs have to be to generate the same force. This force forces the belt to ride higher on the sheaves but- in order to do that it must sink lower in the secondary or driven clutch. The secondary offers the resistance by way of it's spring. Some clutches use a heavier spring where CFM and others use a pinned spring and just preload it ..hence B1,B2,C1, A1 and so on. The goal...in most cases..is to tune the clutch so that the engine runs in it's best or maximum power range (may be torque or HP or both depending on need) during it's normal operations. Changing the weight or load on or of a vehicle or its gear ratio or rotational mass..which adding larger tires does all this, makes it necessary to re-tune the clutches to help make up for this change.

Here's a vid on some CVT basics:

   

[REDRIDER]

yep, lighter weight in the primary means you have to rev the engine higher to be able to close the sheaves. Dr pulley design is nice because it gives a teeny bit more total throw giving a little more low end and a little more top end. At least that's their claim

[brian smith]

do any of you guys have a pic of the tool to hold secondary and possible some dimentions of it i will have to build something to hold it from what i have been reading everybody says bolt is really hard to get out the first time. thanks

[NMKawierider]

do any of you guys have a pic of the tool to hold secondary and possible some dimentions of it i will have to build something to hold it from what i have been reading everybody says bolt is really hard to get out the first time. thanks

Don't have any measurements for mine as I built it on the fly but Cosmosdan has one for the primary with all the measurements. See the How-Tos for it. Not all of then are that tough to get off but you will need to hold it with something in any case. This is the link to the clutchwork How To with vids.

http://cfmoto-forum.com/how-to's/zforce-800-clutch-rr/

and this is the tools I built and/or used on mine.

http://s483.photobucket.com/user/BFFreak_2008/slideshow/CFMoto%20ZForce%20800/Tooles%20for%20Clutch%20Removal?sort=3

[brian smith]

thanks for the information big help is there anything i have to really pay close attention to on the primary clutch we removing and installing it?thanks again for all your help

[NMKawierider]

thanks for the information big help is there anything i have to really pay close attention to on the primary clutch we removing and installing it?thanks again for all your help

Not really other then if you go to the sliders, be sure all are in correctly...and make sure both retainer nuts are torqued to 80-85ftlbs. Clean everything up well...no lube on anything except the secondary retainer nut.

[REDRIDER]

My clutches came off with an impact, getting them back on and torqueing them was not as easy. I didn't make a tool I had a long bar that I placed in the fins of the clutch then put a block of wood under it so the clutch couldn't spin... quite a redneck way to do it but it worked. The secondary is tough to get out there is a harness along the battery box area that gets in the way. I will come out you just have to finesse it. putting the primary back on (especially if using dr pulley sliders) make sure you hold the plate firmly and keep it held until you get the nut back on with some pressure or the weights could flop over and you'll get a really funny acting clutch, or the plate might not make it onto the spline. You'll see what I mean when you do it. It's pretty simple other than figuring out a way to hold the clutches for torqueing, that's the only part that was a pain for me.

[Cosmosdan]

My secondary holder is a bit fancy but there is a picture here. A print is available upon request.

http://cfmoto-forum.com/general-discussion/secondary-holding-tool/msg8305/#msg8305

[brian smith]

can the machine be moved without the cover on it and that is a very nice clutch holder if i could get dimensions that would be great again thanks for all you guys help awesome forum this is alot of great people on here

[NMKawierider]

can the machine be moved without the cover on it and that is a very nice clutch holder if i could get dimensions that would be great again thanks for all you guys help awesome forum this is alot of great people on here

No...don't even start it without the cover on it. That outer cover bearing keeps that shaft in line with the wet clutch and one-way bearing. without that you risk damaging the inner bearing and the other parts. I did it once without thinking...only started it and rapped it up once..and have kicked myself ever sense I learned how these were put together. If you want to test it just put at least a couple of bolts in the cover and go for a run. The dowels and the bolts will keep you safe. 

[brian smith]

thanks it pays to ask questions