[MrWeird]

What happened:
During an easy 30 minute ride on pavement, the 500 trail lost electrical power as if the key had been turned off. Once stopped, I flipped the kill switch a few times, cycled ignition, but to no avail. Dash had gone blank and she wouldn’t crank. Had to tow her to the home 20.

What I’ve done:
Checked battery, checked two 40amp fuses under driver seat, checked all fuses in fuse box under hood, swapped a few interchangeable relays around, pulled kill switch (has continuity across all pairs of wires in run position except 2, possible culprit? Unsure of switch function at this time), and jumped start solenoid to see if she cranks (she does).

Thoughts:
Without a decent wiring diagram, I’m down to tracing the electrical flow but have a strong notion there is another relay or solenoid I have overlooked that provides ignition power.

Summary:
 I think the kill switch or ignition may be my problem and will continue investigating, but I’m curious if anyone else has had this problem and could shed some light on my darkness or provide a decent diagram. Hoping it’s not ecu, really wanted to spend that money on some creature comfort upgrades.

And for what it’s worth, I’ve put about 1200 miles on her without any problems.

[NMKawierider]

In 2018 and 2019 CFM had lots of problems with the main systems fuse holder itself. The crimp-connections inside the holder opens and all power is lost throughout the systems it feeds. Test the incoming power and outgoing power with the key on and in the starter position. You will have to probe the wires themselves. The fuse itself unaffected.  The other thing to test is the AUX relay(s).

[MrWeird]

I%u2019m assuming the main fuses are the two 40amp fuses under the driver seat. One has voltage on both wires when back probing with key on or off(has white electrical tape on split loom), the other has zero voltage regardless of key and kill switch position.

12v aux socket on dash also has 0v.

Will attempt to test power going into kill switch next.

Swapped aux start relay with low beam (same part#) with no fix.

Checked ignition switch, has continuity on run and start. No voltage on harness side of connector.

[MrWeird]

Update:

Got frustrated with trying to chase this gremlin, purchased the service manual with hopes that it has valuable information. Also purchased a new kill switch because I accidentally broke mine during removal. Waiting on the mail man now before I dig any deeper unless someone might have an electrical schematic they would like to share.

Shout out to the moderator for a quick reply to get me testing some known issues. Will check back daily and update once I get some more information.

[MrWeird]

FIXED!

Upon receiving the service manual, I was able to see exactly how the circuit is supposed to work. The two 40 amp fuses under the driver seat should have constant power at all times, I had power on the EPS fuse but not on the main fuse. Traced wires back, found a break in the 12awg main fuse wire at the terminal block located on the frame between the battery and voltage regulator.

I did a “pull” test previously, did not find the break. Dug a little deeper and pulled harder, found it. Corrosion had caused this failure.

[TheHermit]

Thank you for posting the photo of the broken connection! I'm going to get a can of dielectric grease and spray those connectors, to *hopefully* help prevent corrosion.