[Butchson11]

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ZForce 600EX/600 / Re: Has anyone identified and solve the issues of Z6 not turning over???
« on: Today at 02:48:15 AM »
Hello, I am having an issue with what seems like my kill switch on a 2012 z6. I bought the UTV with 150 miles on a newly rebuilt motor and 750 total miles on it. It has been nothing but perfect for the past three weeks and about 200 miles. We discovered that the four wires to the kill switch had all been spliced together and the switch completely disconnected. Mind you, it ran perfect, no issues. We were told by the prior owner that when the shop rebuilt the motor that they bypassed the kill switch. Not knowing why, we attempted to reconnect the switch. Once we did this the fuel pump immediately stopped running when the key is turned on...the starter still turned but the motor didn't turn over due to, assumed, lack of fuel. We turned the starter a few more times and then decided to try to swap out relays thinking that the fuel pump relay may have failed. After this, now the starter also stopped turning. We then decided to splice the four wires to the kill switch back together since it ran perfect before our attempt to reconnect it. Still no fuel pump or starter. Everything else still functions,.. lights, horn, dashboard display, odometer, fuel, clock, temp and gear indicators all work properly. It's like the kill switch is off even though it's no longer connected and is bypassed?..Is there a chance the switch was bad and by having it temporarily connected we fried all the relays? Has anyone done the bypass of the kill switch and if so, did you use the method of connecting all four wires together or another method? I'm aware this sounds odd, at least to me, to have all those wires connected as a bypass, but I can assure everyone that the Z6 has been flawless since I bought it home and that is how the kill switch had been bypassed. Any input from any of you on this will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

[doug80638]

The kill switch shunts the fuel pump relay and ignition switch.

Is this the original kill switch?  My guess would be the switch is bad (common) and they bypassed it rather than replacing it. Wiring to a bad switch isn't going to help you much.

Hooking up the wires to a  bad switch isn't going to damage relays. You will have to trace the lines to make sure that power is getting through your connections and to the relay and ignition switch.

You've pulled relays and such so there is no way for us to know if everything is put back to normal or if the relay is making a good or bad connection, so basic electrical trace diagnostics are in order.

[Butchson11]

Thanks for your insight. It was the original switch, the previous owner said he knew the shop had bypassed it but didn't know why and since it ran perfect, never even thought about it. I understand we will need to do some basic electrical tracing. So far we tested the lead to the fuel pump and it shows about 2 volts with the key on. I think the question I have that I need answered most to settle my mind before we begin further tracing is this.... Should the four wires that lead to the kill switch all be connected? Is this a legitimate, proper, way to bypass that switch? Has anyone here bypassed that switch and if so, what wires did they connect to achieve the bypass. In my case, the UTV was completely functional and perfect, we put 200 miles on it up and down a mountain, driving in the high desert, and even flat out opened up on pavement. Every system was operating great, 4 wd, locking diff, all the gears, cooling fan, all electronics and lights. I want to make sure everything is where it was originally before I go forward and check other possible causes. Those four wires from the kill switch connected together trouble me, when I first saw the splice it didn't make sense but now I'm regretting that I undid it. I feel like it should be two and two but not sure...by the way, you do hear the relay "clicking" when the wires are crossed that all go to that kill switch...as well as when you depress the brake pedal to activate the switch connected to the pedal. Once again, any information from the group here will be greatly appreciated and invaluable to me. Does anyone have a service manual link I can download? It may help with our tracing. Thanks again.

[NMKawierider]

Thanks for your insight. It was the original switch, the previous owner said he knew the shop had bypassed it but didn't know why and since it ran perfect, never even thought about it. I understand we will need to do some basic electrical tracing. So far we tested the lead to the fuel pump and it shows about 2 volts with the key on. I think the question I have that I need answered most to settle my mind before we begin further tracing is this.... Should the four wires that lead to the kill switch all be connected? Is this a legitimate, proper, way to bypass that switch? Has anyone here bypassed that switch and if so, what wires did they connect to achieve the bypass. In my case, the UTV was completely functional and perfect, we put 200 miles on it up and down a mountain, driving in the high desert, and even flat out opened up on pavement. Every system was operating great, 4 wd, locking diff, all the gears, cooling fan, all electronics and lights. I want to make sure everything is where it was originally before I go forward and check other possible causes. Those four wires from the kill switch connected together trouble me, when I first saw the splice it didn't make sense but now I'm regretting that I undid it. I feel like it should be two and two but not sure...by the way, you do hear the relay "clicking" when the wires are crossed that all go to that kill switch...as well as when you depress the brake pedal to activate the switch connected to the pedal. Once again, any information from the group here will be greatly appreciated and invaluable to me. Does anyone have a service manual link I can download? It may help with our tracing. Thanks again.

If you are saying all the wires connected together the answer is NO. The switch completes individual system circuits. You would not want to bridge them all together. Correct the wiring with the new switch, then run the tests.   

Just as example, below is a typical CFM kill switch. Although the L/Rs do join, the Gr/L and the Gr/G do not.

[doug80638]

If it helps:

L/R is Blue with red stripe
GR/L is Grey with Blue stripe
GR/G is Grey with Green stripe

[doug80638]

I had a strange occurrence this weekend that made me think of this exchange.

I had accidentally hit the kill switch, and the motor stopped. I turned off the kill switch and the engine would turn over but not start. It would normally start on the first kick so this was odd.

It turns out the kill switch when turned off was connecting the starter relay circuit, but not the fuel pump circuit.  Bad switch!

I had to flip the switch several times before correct contact was made and the engine would start.

This lead me to wonder?

What is the purpose of the kill switch in the first place?  Under what circumstances would/should you use it?

[NMKawierider]

I had a strange occurrence this weekend that made me think of this exchange.

I had accidentally hit the kill switch, and the motor stopped. I turned off the kill switch and the engine would turn over but not start. It would normally start on the first kick so this was odd.

It turns out the kill switch when turned off was connecting the starter relay circuit, but not the fuel pump circuit.  Bad switch!

I had to flip the switch several times before correct contact was made and the engine would start.

This lead me to wonder?

What is the purpose of the kill switch in the first place?  Under what circumstances would/should you use it?

I had a strange occurrence this weekend that made me think of this exchange.

I had accidentally hit the kill switch, and the motor stopped. I turned off the kill switch and the engine would turn over but not start. It would normally start on the first kick so this was odd.

It turns out the kill switch when turned off was connecting the starter relay circuit, but not the fuel pump circuit.  Bad switch!

I had to flip the switch several times before correct contact was made and the engine would start.

This lead me to wonder?

What is the purpose of the kill switch in the first place?  Under what circumstances would/should you use it?

There are many safety and EPA requirements placed on manufacturers. One is of course RPM limiters for certain conditions. Another is two means to shut a vehicle off in the event of a roll-over. ATVs also have a kill switch. Pros use a dead-man on a tether. Just another way of being able to shut systems off if the key isn't accessible. You would think they would at least use a switch that is of better quality and...water proof so the contacts won't get corroded so people won't have issues on the trail. I think if I ever have an issue with mine, it will get a different type of switch...at least a water proof one.