[caveeagle]

Looks like our recent tire/bent rim incident also did some suspension damage.  Once I got the new tire on my steering is WAY off and its off on both front wheels.  So when the steering is straight,  both wheels are off to the right and not parallel.

I took off both wheels and the right side steering tie rod and it looks like the tie-rod ends got bent.  I am guessing that since the inner rod-ends are both joined at the center 'link'  (actually the bottom of the steering box),  then the damage went right on over to the other side and bent at least the other inner rod end.

So..  I think I need to replace all for rod ends.  Anyone have the part#  or (hopefully) a good source for aftermarket part that will fit, and I can get quickly???   I know that one is reverse thread so I am looking for both the inner and outer part #s..

thanks..

Mark

[caveeagle]

Well,  I found out the tie rod assembly is part # 9010-100530 for L/R sides  and that  Alphasports has them for $59 each..   I was hoping that I could find just the  tie rods ends.

Any idea?

[caveeagle]

I found a couple options on ebay..

This kit that upgrades from stock 10mm to 12mm tie rods..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400899326316?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Then there is this kit, which seems to just replace the stock 10mm Ends..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/401012980243?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


I have the 12mm conversion kit on order, but they screwed up and it wont get delivered for a couple weeks..  argh!!!

I spoke to a rep at American Star today, and it sounds like the stock 10mm ends interchange with a Yamaha ATV.   I really need to get this thing running this weekend!  Anyone know which Yamaha might have 10mm tie rod ends that might work?

I stopped by a local "ride now" dealer that should stock yamaha parts, and did not get any help at all.  He just said he doesn't stock parts for 'Chinese' makes.  .. he really did not seem to want to be helpful..

[Spaceman78]

Sounds like he just doesn't want your money. That's OK, plenty of other people will want it.

[caveeagle]

I am a little disappointed here.  My CF800 has been down for 2+ weeks now.  Dealer is just down the road from me.

1) told be a new tire was on order,  but then could not get it in time so I just got one on amazon.

2) Told be he had a new wheel on order from the suppler.  Said 4 days.  Then FINALLY called to find out they are on back order..

3) He could not give me a deffinate answer on the tire rods I needed.  I did better searching google/ebay then what he offered.

4))) Now I am just sitting here waiting for the 12mm upgrade kit I ordered on ebay.  I am pretty sure there is a Yamaha tie rod end kit that would have worked, but nobody can tell me for sure.

....So another weekend will pass without my ATV working.   

This STINKS!

[Cosmosdan]

Sorry to hear about your delays. There is simply not enough information out there yet. This is why sharing and this forum is important.

[caveeagle]

Yea, I get it.  Well, I will surely post whatever I learn.  Hopefully this will help anyone else with the same issue.

What I know so far: 
A 2015 CForce800 seems to have aluminum steering rod tubes that are threaded for 10mm rod ends.  Left and right sides seem to be the same and there is unique inner and outer tie rod ends.  One side is reverse threaded so you can adjust toe by twisting the rod tube.

In my case, the weakest link in this setup seems to be the conical rod-end that tightens down to the hub "upright" assembly.  The impact to my right side wheel seems to have caused all four tie rod ends to bend throwing the steering way off.  I suppose I wont know if there is any other damage until I get it back together and see if I can get it to align and drive straight.  I don't see any obvious frame or control arm damage at this point.  So maybe the wheel and the tie rods absorbed all the damage.  (let's hope so!)

[Cosmosdan]

The rod it's self has been the only thing that has bent on me so far. Hope it works out for you and I look forward to seeing the results.

[caveeagle]

The rod it's self has been the only thing that has bent on me so far. Hope it works out for you and I look forward to seeing the results.

Yea, those steering rod tubes are pretty lightweight aluminum.  I am pretty surprised that I was able to bend the steel rode end ball joints before the tubes buckled.

That make me wonder how did your tubes bend?  Impact to the tube directly?  In my case, the impact was to the wheel/tire.  So, I am guessing that they held up pretty well to the straight on force.

That was my only reservation to buying to upgraded 12mm steering arm set..  Where do you want the weak link in the 'chain' to be?  Hopefully not something super expensive, or hard to get, like the steering box or hub assembly.

[Cosmosdan]

Last rod was a honda. It was solid steel. It was hit good, also dented the rim up. I get the make it stronger here now it brakes somewhere else idea. You know when you have pushed the machine or you luck too far and you broke something. When I feel this is not true, I look for ways to make it stronger.

[caveeagle]

....Hope it works out for you and I look forward to seeing the results.

It't a pretty basic swap, but I could easily do a write up if anyone cares.  This forum is still a little light on content vs other forums I frequent..

[Cosmosdan]

Every bit of info helps someone later. Maybe just a quick picture with original sizes and the new parts ect.

[caveeagle]

I finally got the new tire rod kit in from 'AllBallsRacing'.  It was around $100 for a new set of steele tie rod tubes and rod end ball joints.  This kit is advertised as being an "upgrade" from stock 10mm to 12mm parts.  It seems that my '15 CF800 came stock with 12mm steering parts, so depending on what you have, this may not be any thicker than stock.

Here are the part#s for these rod ends.  I did a search on the #s and found they fit several other quads.

You can see the rod ends are a bit stouter than stock.

[caveeagle]

The tubes are actually around 1/2" shorter than stock, but you can see that the rod ends (ball joints) are actually longer. 

My original rod ends actually bent on the cone-shaped spindles.  It looks like the new ones might be hardened steel vs the gold-ish looking originals (grade 8 ?)

You can see how the new rod tubes need to be shorter, so I don't think you could use these with the stock tubes.

My only concern is the amount of thread contact on the new rods/ends.  I estimate somewhere between 3/8" and 1/2" of thread contact.  That seems a little short to me,  but I know these hardware types typically can hold a lot of strain.

[caveeagle]

I tried to get a static measurement of the old rods and match up the new ones,  but that did not turn out so well for some reason.  I verified that my steering center link seems to be centered.

**I did find that the bolt on the steering center-link spline was loose,  so I tightened that up.**

First I eye-balled it,  but had too much toe-out and it pulled to the right.  Now, I am set up to get a better alignment.

I have not found anything specific for an alignment spec,  so I am planning to set up for 0-1* of toe In.   I know that it "should" settle a bit when its on the ground so that "should" force more toe in, once the wheels are on and on the ground.   **however, this does not seem to settle very much at all, so I don't think the toe will change too much**

You can barely see the green string I used to establish center line..  I am using a dry-wall square and straight edge to  measure the Toe.   **I don't really seen any way to adjust castor or camber..