So Im getting a solid understanding about how to tinker with the clutch and have a specific end goal in mind.
My riding varies from my hillside yard to rolling through the OHV trails around here.
I encounter slick rock, dirt, gravel, some mud and water lots of climbing and descending and weaving through trees and brush.
I also use it on the secondary roads because its a lot more fun than being in a car all the time.

What I believe I am after is a bit better lock up for descending, it does all right, but I think it could be better.
It pulls uphill pretty good but I'm ranging up hills from about 20-40 degrees and it stays engaged fine.

Im not looking for a mud beast, though I will likely do a good bit of snow but I don't want to shred my top end too bad either.
I know theres options like the weights, springs and helix but while everyone talks about their awesome clutch kits, I'm not seeing a lot of specifics on staging towards what I want to end up with.

I am looking perhaps on running 28s, and finding slightly wider offset rims over stock. I don't want to get crazy wide because I twist through a lot of trees around here too.

But this is a completely new game for me, though I have the mechanical skills to do the install, I am still very much a pup when it comes to quads and CVT transmissions.

It's definitely multi purpose too, not quite a farm rig but it gets used to move logs and dirt as well.

Whats folks best experience for kits/parts and clutch tailoring?

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

There was a time not long ago when there were no clutch kits for CFMs..heck there was a time when there were no kits at all for any of them but..springs and weights. Then someone decided they knew what you wanted and tossed together a few parts and called it a kit. It only did so much and if you wanted something else you have to change springs or weights..or helix ramps.

I am not.. nor ever was a believer in any clutch kit. They are over priced and they generally under deliver. May be OK for a lot of people who don't really know what they want..or need...or will need. But that doesn't sound like you. Sounds like you already have an idea what you would like to see. For you I suggest get to know a CVT system and how it works. And how one clutch works with the other...how the secondary or driven clutch is set for the load first and how the helix senses the torque needs of that load..and how it transmits that resistance to the Primary or drive clutch..where it takes the available output power of the engine to overcome that resistance. Tuning these two to get the best out of themselves and the engine power through the RPM range is...well and art to say the least. As well as understanding that there are limitations...in that I mean expect to give up something to gain something if you go too far. For you I suggest getting those new tires and try a few different...and higher clocking positions first..until you find a setting that gives you the power, shiftout and back-shifting you need. Then fine-tune the primary with a new spring and weights to get it in..or closer to the power band better...if that is you wish. I say that because not everyone wants a "scream'n demon" all the time. Being a bit under the power band is just fine for many. It's quieter in the cab that way. I'm one of those now. Next time I'm in mine it's going back to C1 and out with the 22g sliders and in with 24g. I'm not climbing sand dunes anymore so no need for all that.       

Your hitting exactly where I need to know.
And no . . I like cruising through the woods, not shattering sound ordinances 30 miles away. I've got a shovelhead for that.

My primary issue is when engine braking down my backyard I could use a bit more engagement time, and I would like it to lock up just a bit quicker, Im after keeping it engaged at low speed, not pulling wheelies.
It rips uphill pretty good and I've always thought that fine tuning what you have before dropping money everywhere makes more sense.
But descending I'm getting pretty good at not using the hydraulic brakes but the clutches disengage right after I break over onto the steepest part of the hill.
Pretty sure it's a "small" change needed and not a radical overbuild.


Hell, Im even logging what effect various tire pressure has on the machine and how it handles and performs.

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

After doing away with the wet clutch systems on the larger engines and not being able to use the oneway in the primary as they can in the smaller, lighter machines, the engine braking is limited to the time when the clutch is still making contact..or engaged with the belt. You can effect how low that gets to a point with heavier flyweights and/or a spring with a lighter first number. That also effects initial engagement as well..ie lower RPM engagement. It also makes it shift-out sooner as you go up in RPMs but that can be countered with a higher clocking on the secondary if it's too much. Just remember you need at least 3-500 RPM between idle and engagement for the primary to ensure dis-engagement so don't go over on weights. A little bit goes a long ways. If it were mine I would weigh the stock weights and get a set that was say..5 grams heavier and try them. From there I would decide weather to go more or a little less. Might take a couple of sets but..you'll get it. You can also change-out the spring. Just need to know what it comes with then we can decide what to try.

All right.
Wasn't far off in my thinking that I needed to start with weights first.