It only took about twenty minutes to adjust the valves. It took an hour or more to get to them! (Not like accessing the valve adjusters on the 1972 BMW R75/5 I used to have!) It was a chore removing everything required to get the fuel tank off and eventually exposing the valve cover, but I'm sure it will be much easier in the future now that I've done it once. I set the intake valves at .003" and the exhaust at .007".
The only thing that gave me any trouble was an electrical component that was attached to a tab under the front left side of the plastic plate under the fuel tank. I had some difficulty getting it off the tab so I could remove that plastic plate. I also struggled a bit with the electrical connection from the fuel tank that is in front of the tank on the top right, but only because I was unfamiliar with how it was connected and how it was attached to its mounting tab.
One recommendation: it would be easier to do this with a minimum of fuel in the tank. I'm in the habit of topping off the fuel tank after each ride, so my tank was full -- and heavy.
After previously watching some videos of differential lubricant changes, I was horrified to hear about the metal that was mentioned as being caught by the magnetic drain plugs. It turns out that this metal contamination was minimal and super fine; much better thought of as a tiny bit of dark metallic paste rather than what you might normally think of as "metal." That eased my mind. I was fearing that I'd find a clump of shavings on the plugs! That was certainly not the case.
It's nice to know I won't have to uncover that valve cover again for 2000 miles...