[Branlivmel]

This issue can happen at any time it seems like. Here's what happens. I'll be cruising at any speed and suddenly the atv will just act like you've pushed the kill switch. The lights on the dash stay on but it immediately starts to bog down as if you've completely let off the gas. When this happens the efi fault (red light on dash) comes on. This whole thing only last half or 3/4s of a second. Just enough to slow you down from say 25 mph to 23 or 24 then the atv picks right back up where it left off and you're back up to speed. It'll sometimes do it once every 10 seconds, sometimes once every 30 seconds, sometimes not for 30 minutes. And then it'll stop and not do it for an hour sometimes. Makes me think of a short in wiring? Another thing, my fuel gauge doesn't seem accurate and my tank builds up pressure and "whooshes" when you Crack the cap. I've seen a tank pressure fix video on YouTube so maybe that'll fix that issue but I wondered if they were related. I drove around carefully with the gas cap off but it still did the intermittent efi fault. Any help is appreciated!

[NMKawierider]

This issue can happen at any time it seems like. Here's what happens. I'll be cruising at any speed and suddenly the atv will just act like you've pushed the kill switch. The lights on the dash stay on but it immediately starts to bog down as if you've completely let off the gas. When this happens the efi fault (red light on dash) comes on. This whole thing only last half or 3/4s of a second. Just enough to slow you down from say 25 mph to 23 or 24 then the atv picks right back up where it left off and you're back up to speed. It'll sometimes do it once every 10 seconds, sometimes once every 30 seconds, sometimes not for 30 minutes. And then it'll stop and not do it for an hour sometimes. Makes me think of a short in wiring? Another thing, my fuel gauge doesn't seem accurate and my tank builds up pressure and "whooshes" when you Crack the cap. I've seen a tank pressure fix video on YouTube so maybe that'll fix that issue but I wondered if they were related. I drove around carefully with the gas cap off but it still did the intermittent efi fault. Any help is appreciated!

Pressure in the tank is normal unless it's so hot it's boiling...which it can under certain conditions. Your issue sounds more like a fuel related problem. This can commonly be from three possibilities. One-the fuel pump is failing and loosing pressure or can not supply full pressure under load. Two-there is water or dust in the tank preventing flow through the pickup or the filter has water or rash in it. Or three-the heat is causing vapor locking. This happens more then one would think. CFM has had issues with this on the CForces for a while. The cure is to wrap and place heat guards on the fuel supply line to the the injector(s). If your issue happens more after it warms-up, this might be a consideration. Otherwise you need to rear the code when the MIL light is flashing to know where the problem is. The other thing it may be is low voltage to the coil or system but that could mean a failing charging system or battery...or some corroded connector somewhere. Have to do some testing to narrow it down.     

[Branlivmel]

This issue can happen at any time it seems like. Here's what happens. I'll be cruising at any speed and suddenly the atv will just act like you've pushed the kill switch. The lights on the dash stay on but it immediately starts to bog down as if you've completely let off the gas. When this happens the efi fault (red light on dash) comes on. This whole thing only last half or 3/4s of a second. Just enough to slow you down from say 25 mph to 23 or 24 then the atv picks right back up where it left off and you're back up to speed. It'll sometimes do it once every 10 seconds, sometimes once every 30 seconds, sometimes not for 30 minutes. And then it'll stop and not do it for an hour sometimes. Makes me think of a short in wiring? Another thing, my fuel gauge doesn't seem accurate and my tank builds up pressure and "whooshes" when you Crack the cap. I've seen a tank pressure fix video on YouTube so maybe that'll fix that issue but I wondered if they were related. I drove around carefully with the gas cap off but it still did the intermittent efi fault. Any help is appreciated!

Pressure in the tank is normal unless it's so hot it's boiling...which it can under certain conditions. Your issue sounds more like a fuel related problem. This can commonly be from three possibilities. One-the fuel pump is failing and loosing pressure or can not supply full pressure under load. Two-there is water or dust in the tank preventing flow through the pickup or the filter has water or rash in it. Or three-the heat is causing vapor locking. This happens more then one would think. CFM has had issues with this on the CForces for a while. The cure is to wrap and place heat guards on the fuel supply line to the the injector(s). If your issue happens more after it warms-up, this might be a consideration. Otherwise you need to rear the code when the MIL light is flashing to know where the problem is. The other thing it may be is low voltage to the coil or system but that could mean a failing charging system or battery...or some corroded connector somewhere. Have to do some testing to narrow it down.   

Sorry, I didn't get a notification that you replied to my post. Thanks for the reply. After further test I have found that I get pressure in the tank 75% of the time. It weird to me that it doesn't happen all the time. Maybe that little valve in the cap is failing, I don't know. The pressure is so extreme that when I unscrew the cap, I can visually see the plastic draw inward a quarter inch, that seems excessive. However, driving with the cap loosened didn't help my problem. Next, I found out how to consistently get the issue to happen and that's to be at an uphill angle. If I'm going up a hill that's kind of steep, it's guaranteed to cut out and flash that red light more than once. It's never bad enough to kill the engine but it's bad enough to make you lose momentum and/or traction. Also, I wanna mention that there is no check engine light on or any codes like you mentioned. The charging system is doing it's job as well and the battery is maintaining as intended. More testing to come. Thoughts?

[NMKawierider]

If it has the fuel vaporization system,look to an issue with water in the canister or a sticking EGR or other valve. Do the delete if you can...it's helped many people. 

[Branlivmel]

If it has the fuel vaporization system,look to an issue with water in the canister or a sticking EGR or other valve. Do the delete if you can...it's helped many people.

I'll dig into that this weekend, thanks for the information!

[Branlivmel]

If it has the fuel vaporization system,look to an issue with water in the canister or a sticking EGR or other valve. Do the delete if you can...it's helped many people.

Mine doesn't have a canister in the rear compartment like I seen on a YouTube video. Maybe they fixed that or it's been deleted. Also, with further testing it seems that taking the fuel cap off DOES appear to stop the issue from occurring. I also noticed (and took a video) of bubbles in the tank...excessive bubbles. I'm assuming from boiling? That's a little concerning.

[NMKawierider]

If the heat under the tank is enough to boil the fuel, then it is enough to do the same in the line leading to the injector..we call that vapor-locking. And is not unheard of on these. Need more heat shield on the line and tank bottom as well as more air flow in that area.

[Branlivmel]

If the heat under the tank is enough to boil the fuel, then it is enough to do the same in the line leading to the injector..we call that vapor-locking. And is not unheard of on these. Need more heat shield on the line and tank bottom as well as more air flow in that area.

I've searched around to see if I could find what people are doing for better airflow on these and am not having much luck. Short of just maybe removing some inner fender plastic and cutting out a piece on the side plastics near the shifter then the same on the other side....I don't know.

[NMKawierider]

The older Yamaha Grizzlies also had this problem and they just made a vented side cover plastic piece for both sides. Not sure if we can do that here but seems like a small like 3-4" fan mounded in the right spot could help a lot. Something like one of these with protective grills tapped into keyed power:

https://www.amazon.com/GDSTIME-80mm-25mm-Brushless-Cooling/dp/B00N1Y50QQ/ref=sr_1_6?crid=698QUJMO1PPM&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.O4fPJNyA-FKjFcK5KiWEm6PSu3ESjsdfhvu4pX5SMjlFpFQtNptce7n2872nUT23-ctzr3WQROcOXqz6e8Mn72kDtwbtyxX8-gjoOVT9m6crpstU37zJ1n2sSZJgpSc0wySG0aSBen5nRLNmv9Y_AwEHRlx87bwuIAUKHNhLDp474bHKIbMjdQmsaaN8ztBos_9ZsVntFZz1QRHYxDJ_dDF35n1cedzbpZ_EJ27HwJ0.sbH-O3bMQdiZeOPwliJxgGTZKlNt_9V-fogYHQb0Cww&dib_tag=se&keywords=4%22+dc+fan&qid=1725122372&sprefix=4+dc+fan%2Caps%2C135&sr=8-6

[Branlivmel]

The older Yamaha Grizzlies also had this problem and they just made a vented side cover plastic piece for both sides. Not sure if we can do that here but seems like a small like 3-4" fan mounded in the right spot could help a lot. Something like one of these with protective grills tapped into keyed power:

https://www.amazon.com/GDSTIME-80mm-25mm-Brushless-Cooling/dp/B00N1Y50QQ/ref=sr_1_6?crid=698QUJMO1PPM&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.O4fPJNyA-FKjFcK5KiWEm6PSu3ESjsdfhvu4pX5SMjlFpFQtNptce7n2872nUT23-ctzr3WQROcOXqz6e8Mn72kDtwbtyxX8-gjoOVT9m6crpstU37zJ1n2sSZJgpSc0wySG0aSBen5nRLNmv9Y_AwEHRlx87bwuIAUKHNhLDp474bHKIbMjdQmsaaN8ztBos_9ZsVntFZz1QRHYxDJ_dDF35n1cedzbpZ_EJ27HwJ0.sbH-O3bMQdiZeOPwliJxgGTZKlNt_9V-fogYHQb0Cww&dib_tag=se&keywords=4%22+dc+fan&qid=1725122372&sprefix=4+dc+fan%2Caps%2C135&sr=8-6

Okay I've finished my night shifts and got to tearing the plastics down. The youtube video I watched prior to making this post showed a vapor canister in the rear storage but mine did not have this leading me to believe I didn't have one or it was deleted. Turns out, on my model they are in the front tucked behind the left front wheel. Are there decent instructions that you've seen to delete this? I don't want to blindly follow just any ol' write up. I'd rather have one with credibility. Thanks for all of your advice so far!

[NMKawierider]

The evap system takes gasoline fumes from the tank and recycles it through an EGR system. There has been some issues with it but not sure any relate to the problem you said you are having..which sounds more like vapor-locking or low fuel pressure from excessive trapped heat.

[Branlivmel]

The evap system takes gasoline fumes from the tank and recycles it through an EGR system. There has been some issues with it but not sure any relate to the problem you said you are having..which sounds more like vapor-locking or low fuel pressure from excessive trapped heat.

New news on my issue. I removed the evap garbage as per instructed from a couple different youtube videos. Pretty straightforward, plug off the line into the throttlebody, route the tank vent somewhere it can safely puke if it has to, and physically remove the canister if you don't want it in the way. Quick and painless. However, it didn't help. Also I wanted to mention that this issue of the efi light coming on and the atv stalling for a split second doesn't only happen when the tank gets hot. I can crank it up from cold, put it in gear, take off, and immediately start getting the stalling. Maybe I'll upload a YouTube video so I can show you exactly what's happening because it's very mind boggling. It'll also do the same thing in park or neutral if you just rev it up. I've seen videos of people hitting rev limiters or "fuel cuts" on these. Mine don't get that far before seeing the efi light. It's like it's starts starving for fuel so it throws an efi light which stalls the engine then picks right back up like nothing happened. Weird.

[Branlivmel]

The evap system takes gasoline fumes from the tank and recycles it through an EGR system. There has been some issues with it but not sure any relate to the problem you said you are having..which sounds more like vapor-locking or low fuel pressure from excessive trapped heat.

And another thing: when we were trail riding last weekend I only got the stalling/efi light to happen 6 or 8 times all day BUT 5 of those times I was tilted nose-up going up a hill. So I ran a little test on the creek bank at home and determined that you can consistently make this issue happen when giving the atv throttle while tilted uphill. So much so that it would even stall completely out. Normally when it acts up it don't stall all the way out, just enough to slow you down a bit.

[NMKawierider]

Very strange.Do these have a vehicle down/roll-over sensor?

[Branlivmel]

Very strange.Do these have a vehicle down/roll-over sensor?

That was my first thought, too because my raptor 700 has one. I'm still trying to find that answer but I have to wait until another day off. I work a weird schedule and the shifts are 12.5 hrs, then cook for the kids, homework, etc lol it's a long day on my work days. Weird how it'll do it on flat ground riding OR sitting still revving but does it worse uphill.