[cforce550norway]

Been having issues with starting lately, lots of clicking from the starter relay and starter kicks in now and then, until it would not start at all last week. Relay still clicking though.
My thought was the starter relay, but i tested it and it seemed fine.
The shorted starter came into mind when I tried to bypass the starter relay and the sparks came flying, after disconnecting the starter power cable I measured 0 ohm between + connection and chassis. Removed the starter and rotated the shaft, but still same problem.

Hopefully everything will be OK with new starter, a bit suspicous of the start relay which has been taking a high current beating. We'll see.

Anyone else who has experienced similar issues?

[doug80638]

Starters draw a lot of juice without a lot of resistance. Depending on the setting of the ohm meter, you might not see any resistance.

Sparks should fly when you jump a solenoid.

What you describe sounds like a degraded/weak battery. I would test by jumping/charging the battery  before investing in a new starter.

[cforce550norway]

Starters draw a lot of juice without a lot of resistance. Depending on the setting of the ohm meter, you might not see any resistance.

Sparks should fly when you jump a solenoid.

What you describe sounds like a degraded/weak battery. I would test by jumping/charging the battery  before investing in a new starter.

My thought exactly, I tried with a new battery as well. Same problem.
My dealer is ordering a new starter for me through warranty. Have to wait and see.

[cjustice50]

I have a 500s I’m sure they use the same starter but my issue I’ve had is I’d get a efi light on the dash and the relay would click, Ive been jumping the starter with the same battery no problems.

[NMKawierider]

I have a 500s I’m sure they use the same starter but my issue I’ve had is I’d get a efi light on the dash and the relay would click, Ive been jumping the starter with the same battery no problems.

There has been some issues with the main fuse holder causing power loss across the connections. It seems to be a problem inside the molded ends. That causes low voltage to the system which will among other things not allow the starter solenoid to energize and the EFI system to register a fault code because of that low voltage. Something to check.

 

[cjustice50]

Done some more looking into my issue on the 500s, seems to be the actual bolt that comes out of the starter for the power wire to connect to is loose.  When you move the power wire you can notice the whole bolt will move. I’m scared to tighten the but in fear that the bolt will cause something to break internally in the starter.  Once I moved the power wire going to the starter I had no trouble all day long riding. I’m almost certain that the whole bolt or lug however you’d say shouldn’t move. But I’m not gunna mess with it until I need to again. 

[Cosmosdan]

Just snug the bolt up. Wrist tight should be good. If it comes loose again look into why.

[ctdls]

seems to be the actual bolt that comes out of the starter for the power wire to connect to is loose.  When you move the power wire you can notice the whole bolt will move. I’m scared to tighten the but in fear that the bolt will cause something to break internally in the starter. 

You may have an issue with the connection inside the starter motor. Good choice not to tighten the nut, remove it & the wire, you will see another nut under the wire you removed. Carefully try to tighten that nut without spinning the stud, if it tightens go ahead & re install the heavy wire & snug the nut that hold the wire down.

Inside the starter motor that stud has a wire connecting it to a brush that supplies power to the armature, if that connections is damaged internally & it maybe because you wiggle the wire.....your a done & need a starter motor.

[cjustice50]

I haven’t messed with anything since it started working as normal.  But I would look into if I have the problem arise again.  Which it probably will. 

[ajc]

Any updates here on what the fix was?

I have a 2016 500 HO and when I hit the starter button I just get clicking from the solenoid.  With the key in the run position I can jumper across the positive post and the starter post on the solenoid and it will start right up.  Replaced the solenoid thinking it was bad but still have the same issue.  Took the starter out and tested it on the workbench and it works fine.  Every once in awhile it will start just fine with the button as well, but not consistently.

Wondering if the second solenoid is bad as well?

Any thoughts?

[Cosmosdan]

Even a slightly low battery will cause this. Bridging the solenoid  seems to get enough juice to start, but not with the button. You could try jumping the starter case to a good ground next time. Might be making poor contact how it's mounted.

[ajc]

Even a slightly low battery will cause this. Bridging the solenoid  seems to get enough juice to start, but not with the button. You could try jumping the starter case to a good ground next time. Might be making poor contact how it's mounted.

Thx.  The battery was showing 12.8 volts with my multimeter, but I just took it over to oreilly and it tested "bad".  I'll get it replaced and see if that does the trick.

I forgot to mention that I had previously jumped the starter case directly to the battery negative and it had made no difference.

[Cosmosdan]

I figure if the battery is low and I really need it to start, just jump the solenoid to get you home.

[ajc]

I figure if the battery is low and I really need it to start, just jump the solenoid to get you home.

Yeah.  I took it to Napa and it tested bad there as well.  Bought a replacement and I'll give it a shot when I get home tonight.

[Cosmosdan]

Don't know why these are so picky about the voltage, but hope all goes well.