[HereInOhio]

I recently bought a 2018 CF500HO with low hours and miles. My first time taking it to real trails after riding for half the day it starting having an issue reaching top speed. The engine starts and idles fine and seems to rev fine. The machine accelerates but will not go above 11 mph in low and 18 mph in high (or close to those speeds-this was back in November).

This happened after I refilled and also went though a mud puddle (not that deep don’t think it even got to my shoes). When I brought it home I assumed it was bad gas so I switched it out and the same thing. I took off the clutch cover and it wasn’t muddy or anything. A little bit of dust but in my inexperienced opinion not much. I started it to see if the one way bearing was bad and all though the secondary was spinning I later learned that it will until the idle settles down so I warned it up and looked at it and the clutch did stop spinning when the rpm’s settled down.

I didn’t notice anything else that looked weird but after I washed it up and drove around trying to figure out what is wrong I did notice a rattling noise, the best way to describe it is similar to when a heat shield of a car is rattling just very faint and only on acceleration. Could be something in my compartments though but doubt it.

The only other details I have is the shifter needed adjusted since I got it. Very hard to switch gears and usually doesn’t light up the gear you’re in unless you get lucky. Lastly my friend also told me I could switch 4x4 on the fly so I did that but now learned it needs to be stopped. It wasn’t (and still isn’t) always engaging but it will occasionally.

Any ideas what I should check out for the limited top speed?

[NMKawierider]

Sounds like several things are afoot here but let's address the speed first. You said this happened right after hitting some water so first start up front and check all the connectors especially the ECU. Then check the fuel pressure compared to what the manual states and check the tank check valve. Also check the battery voltage while off and sitting a while -v- running. Should be 12.4-12.8 sitting and 13.7-14.5+- while running.

[HereInOhio]

Sounds like several things are afoot here but let's address the speed first. You said this happened right after hitting some water so first start up front and check all the connectors especially the ECU. Then check the fuel pressure compared to what the manual states and check the tank check valve. Also check the battery voltage while off and sitting a while -v- running. Should be 12.4-12.8 sitting and 13.7-14.5+- while running.

Thank you for the reply. I was just watching about deleting the evap canister so I’ll try to look at the check valve as well as the connectors. I don’t have a fuel pressure gauge but should be able to rent one.

As far as this happening right after hitting water I can’t say it was immediately after, I was more just listing things that may impact what’s going on. I don’t really know when it started happening besides shortly after refilling the fuel. The terrain had a lot of corners so it could’ve been happening for awhile before noticing since it runs fine below 18, I probably wouldn’t have noticed it.

[NMKawierider]

Then also check for water in the fuel filter.

[HereInOhio]

Then also check for water in the fuel filter.

So after posting this I was going to be busy so I dropped it off at the local shop to have them adjust the shift linkage. Basically since they said it would only be a half hour it was worth the money to me. They did say that they see it’s stuck in 4wd, would that be something that would limit the top end speed to be that low?

[NMKawierider]

Then also check for water in the fuel filter.

So after posting this I was going to be busy so I dropped it off at the local shop to have them adjust the shift linkage. Basically since they said it would only be a half hour it was worth the money to me. They did say that they see it’s stuck in 4wd, would that be something that would limit the top end speed to be that low?

Likely..yes. Some have a limiter when in 4wd and others..like mine have(or had) a limiter when in 4wd and in diff-loc.

[HereInOhio]

Then also check for water in the fuel filter.

So after posting this I was going to be busy so I dropped it off at the local shop to have them adjust the shift linkage. Basically since they said it would only be a half hour it was worth the money to me. They did say that they see it’s stuck in 4wd, would that be something that would limit the top end speed to be that low?

Likely..yes. Some have a limiter when in 4wd and others..like mine have(or had) a limiter when in 4wd and in diff-loc.

Ok great. That’s good to know. I’m on vacation now but when I get back I’ll need to dive into what’s going on with the 4x4. I did try switching it on the fly so I’ll start by looking at the rack gear. Before taking it to the shop, I did take it for a spin and from what I remembered it was topping out at 5100 or 5600 rpm. I don’t recall what it normally went to but have heard these engines power band is over 7k.

[NMKawierider]

RPM Limiter is somewhere around 7500-7750. Power band or peak HP and torque is somewhere well under that.

[HereInOhio]

RPM Limiter is somewhere around 7500-7750. Power band or peak HP and torque is somewhere well under that.

So I just got back and picked up my machine. The shift linkage was adjusted to be a little better but now it’s not lighting up any of the gears it’s in besides park. It used to intermediately or when you push it hard into gear. Half of the bolts were left out, complete joke for the dealer to return it like this. Looks like I’ll be taking it apart anyway to double check it.

I went to take the shift actuator off and the bottom bolt is blocked by the tab coming off the frame to hold the lower an arm on. I see most peoples shift actuators are on the passenger side. Mine is on the driver side needing removed towards the rear. Any experience with how to get that bottom bolt out?

[NMKawierider]

On others many just remove one motor mount, loosen the other and lift the engine enough to clear the obstruction.

[HereInOhio]

I finally got around to messing with this. I was able to loosen up the differential bolts and lift it to get to the last bolt. I replied to another post about rebuilding it but the actuator would move one way and not move again until the diff lock was pushed. Then it would move the other way and not again until you went back and pushed the button from 4x4 to 4x2. Forks and gear looked good so it looks like I need a new actuator.

I'm still stuck in 4x4. I checked the relays. Would anyone know if when you are in gear, if the front drive shaft would be spinning if you are NOT in 4x4? Mine is always spinning. Does anyone know what actually switches the machine from 4x4 to 4x2? I know you push the button and the power must go through the relay and assuming it goes to something on the transmission. Any help troubleshooting how to get it out of 4x4 would be appreciated.

[NMKawierider]

You know...there has been a lot of reports of that switch going bad inside. And Yamaha has one that's practically identical to it and I always though when..or if mine ever went I would adapt the Yamaha's to mine as no one ever reported one of theirs failing.

[HereInOhio]

You know...there has been a lot of reports of that switch going bad inside. And Yamaha has one that's practically identical to it and I always though when..or if mine ever went I would adapt the Yamaha's to mine as no one ever reported one of theirs failing.

Thanks, good to know! I don't think the switch is the issue since I hear the motor running when I push the button. I messed with it a little more and found out the front shaft always spins when in gear, the 4x4 is controlled solely by the front diff. Moving the fork/gear inside I was able to get it into 4x4 and 4x2. I decided to manually spin the gear of the actuator when I had it in 4x2 and I was able to get the dashboard to reflect being in 4x2. I heard the actuator is pressure sensitive as far as switching. I took it apart and it did appear that way. Time to order a new one.

So a big thing to note if others are reading this with a similar issue is just because your actuator makes a noise don't assume the internals are working.

[NMKawierider]

One of the most common issues is that the plastic gear that moves the fork tends to strip and on some it's been known to go into 4wd but not cone back out. On others it jumps a tooth and is off-alignment. When assembling it is important for it to be in 2wd and the slide be to the far right as you look at it when putting the actuator back on. Just some info-dump.

[HereInOhio]

One of the most common issues is that the plastic gear that moves the fork tends to strip and on some it's been known to go into 4wd but not cone back out. On others it jumps a tooth and is off-alignment. When assembling it is important for it to be in 2wd and the slide be to the far right as you look at it when putting the actuator back on. Just some info-dump.

I feel like I’m almost there. My actuator came in so I got that replaced along with the gear sensor. Now all gears switch on the dash and the 4x4 works as it should. Good news!

I took it for a ride today and it was topping out right around 39-40 mph. I feel like it used to go faster but not 100% sure. The rpms were something in the 6k guessing 6,400. I looked all over for the 2018 500HO top speed and not finding much. The new ones say 55 mph and one you tube showed a guy going 60 but thinking he had a clutch kit or a tune. I’m wondering if a worn belt would cause the speed to be limited.