[Cf1000]

@NMKawierider and everyone.

I have some hard starting issues when cold and some chattering/ metallic pinging from the front cylinder, i can hear it with the old "stethoscope" long screwdriver trick, it comes from the head (disappears when it heats up), back cylinder is silent.
What's the proper way to adjust the valves?
When at compression tdc the rocker arms have some play, they wiggle. Are you supposed to lift/pull up the rocker arms and then insert the feeler?
Some say that when you insert the feeler gauge, the rocker arm will raise to its maximum point towards the cam.
I found that NOT to be the case, first time i did the valves i didn't pull on the rocker arms, i just inserted the feeler gauge and adjusted until it was catching. After reassembly the valvetrain was noisy.
When i repeated the process i pulled on the arm and this time the feeler gauge slid out without catching, so there is definitely a difference.

So what's the proper way?

Bonus: how the heck do i go about doing the front cylinder? I can't see the exhaust valves (especially the left one), i go by feel only (i have a feeling that's why the front cylinder is acting up). Any tricks?

[NMKawierider]

@NMKawierider and everyone.

I have some hard starting issues when cold and some chattering/ metallic pinging from the front cylinder, i can hear it with the old "stethoscope" long screwdriver trick, it comes from the head (disappears when it heats up), back cylinder is silent.
What's the proper way to adjust the valves?
When at compression tdc the rocker arms have some play, they wiggle. Are you supposed to lift/pull up the rocker arms and then insert the feeler?
Some say that when you insert the feeler gauge, the rocker arm will raise to its maximum point towards the cam.
I found that NOT to be the case, first time i did the valves i didn't pull on the rocker arms, i just inserted the feeler gauge and adjusted until it was catching. After reassembly the valvetrain was noisy.
When i repeated the process i pulled on the arm and this time the feeler gauge slid out without catching, so there is definitely a difference.

So what's the proper way?

Bonus: how the heck do i go about doing the front cylinder? I can't see the exhaust valves (especially the left one), i go by feel only (i have a feeling that's why the front cylinder is acting up). Any tricks?

On mine I pull the seats and the back plastics to get to the front cylinder. Makes it easy. I have set mine several times and have not run into what you are talking about having to lift-up the rocker but..if they still makes them the same way, there is a roller on the can side that holds oil under it and in the pin that might need some help getting out of the way. The rocker itself should move freely and if not there is binding on the shaft. Always set dead cold and in the middle of the range..and just a pro-trick- back the lock nut well off, insert your feeler gauge and tighten the adjuster down on the feeler with your fingers fairly hard. with the size of the adjuster and oil on it you can not put enough pressure on it to push the valve down. Once set hold it with whatever it needs then tighten the lock/jam nut. Then check the resistance. You will fine the act of locking it has reduced the drag a little. That's OK as long as it still had enough.  Once all are done and checked on that cylinder cap it up and go to the other and find it's TDC on its compression stroke and do it all over again.

One thing you might want to check is how the rollers re working. Mine had one that was locked and just dragging up and down on the cam lobe. Back the adjusted way off and spin the rollers by hand. They should roll smooth and free and no weird marks on their surface of the cam's.   

[Cf1000]

@NMKawierider and everyone.

I have some hard starting issues when cold and some chattering/ metallic pinging from the front cylinder, i can hear it with the old "stethoscope" long screwdriver trick, it comes from the head (disappears when it heats up), back cylinder is silent.
What's the proper way to adjust the valves?
When at compression tdc the rocker arms have some play, they wiggle. Are you supposed to lift/pull up the rocker arms and then insert the feeler?
Some say that when you insert the feeler gauge, the rocker arm will raise to its maximum point towards the cam.
I found that NOT to be the case, first time i did the valves i didn't pull on the rocker arms, i just inserted the feeler gauge and adjusted until it was catching. After reassembly the valvetrain was noisy.
When i repeated the process i pulled on the arm and this time the feeler gauge slid out without catching, so there is definitely a difference.

So what's the proper way?

Bonus: how the heck do i go about doing the front cylinder? I can't see the exhaust valves (especially the left one), i go by feel only (i have a feeling that's why the front cylinder is acting up). Any tricks?

On mine I pull the seats and the back plastics to get to the front cylinder. Makes it easy. I have set mine several times and have not run into what you are talking about having to lift-up the rocker but..if they still makes them the same way, there is a roller on the can side that holds oil under it and in the pin that might need some help getting out of the way. The rocker itself should move freely and if not there is binding on the shaft. Always set dead cold and in the middle of the range..and just a pro-trick- back the lock nut well off, insert your feeler gauge and tighten the adjuster down on the feeler with your fingers fairly hard. with the size of the adjuster and oil on it you can not put enough pressure on it to push the valve down. Once set hold it with whatever it needs then tighten the lock/jam nut. Then check the resistance. You will fine the act of locking it has reduced the drag a little. That's OK as long as it still had enough.  Once all are done and checked on that cylinder cap it up and go to the other and find it's TDC on its compression stroke and do it all over again.

One thing you might want to check is how the rollers re working. Mine had one that was locked and just dragging up and down on the cam lobe. Back the adjusted way off and spin the rollers by hand. They should roll smooth and free and no weird marks on their surface of the cam's.   

Thanks for the reply,
Checked the rollers and cams, all ok
Almost all valves were tight, exhaust more than intake.
What i did is i adjusted with the correct size gauge and the n made sure that the nest size didn't fit and "catched" the same, super consistent with this method and easier, i didn't lift the rockers.
All noises dissapeared and starts without any troubles.