How do you separate the caliper from the rotor in the rear. Not the hydraulic brakes but the manual handbrake. I can't get the pins out of the caliper itself. Do you have to unbolt the rotor and pull that and the carrier it rides on as one piece? Better yet is there a service manual for these?

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

How do you separate the caliper from the rotor in the rear. Not the hydraulic brakes but the manual handbrake. I can't get the pins out of the caliper itself. Do you have to unbolt the rotor and pull that and the carrier it rides on as one piece? Better yet is there a service manual for these?

For what year? They changed them is 2019. On the previous years it was on the pinion of the rear gear case and I tried once to pull the pads to de-glaze them. Couldn't get it to separate so I gave up. Now I have again run it some with the brake on and really toasted them and really need to to it so..I guess I'll have to get serious about it.

Here's the manual for all prior to 2019. The link will only be good for about 72 hours:

https://documentcloud.adobe.com/link/track?uri=urn%3Aaaid%3Ascds%3AUS%3A9a98881f-735c-492d-989d-09d3f9160b6f

My parking brake caliper  (2017 Z8) has issues and I want to remove the caliper to inspect.
It's the one on the rear drive axle rotor.

Has anyone done this? And if so, can you offer some pointers on how to get it out?

A closer look shows the caliper is bolted to the rear diff. Looks like the diff might have to be removed in order to get access to the caliper.  Seems like a poor design  given the maintenance requirements for replacing brake pads.

  Seems like a poor design  given the maintenance requirements

Sorry, I should not even post as I cannot help with your request. The comment about poor design had me laughing  I changed the drive belt on a Can Am 800 yesterday & really thought about posting here on this site about how easy it should be.......couldn't make myself do it  The Chinese have no regard for after sale service & support, there only motive is to sell......a reflection of design

Edit: July 28:

If you are going to do this job, order the pads and the spring well ahead of time (could take 3 weeks to get the spring). You will want to replace the spring.

"Ok. You don't have to take out the rear diff to get at the parking brake caliper."

It turns out that disconnecting the rear diff and moving it back slightly helps greatly in getting the intermediate shaft back in, so I've updated the instructions:

Quick and dirty instructions:

Remove panel from between and behind the seats.
Remove two Phillips screws holding the rubber CVT intake to the back wall (upper drivers side).
Pull intake tube toward middle of machine until the hold pin is cleared.

Jack up the rear end and brace under the body.
Remove rear wheels.
Remove the plastic panel from the rear of the machine (6 10mm bolts).
Remove the battery cover (2 10mm bolts).
Loosen the CVT intake clamps and remove intake tube from machine (right side).

Now you have access to the intermediate shaft from the right side. It's held in place by 8 cap  bolts; 4 on each end; 8mm hex. They are tight so invest in a quality hex wrench! You will need leverage and force to break them loose.

Put the trans in neutral to spin the shaft and line up the bolts for access, then put it in park and wrench out the bolt. Wash, rinse and repeat. Remove the 4 differential side bolts first, then the 4 transmission side bolts.

"Now getting the intermediate shaft out is tricky as there is a spring involved so be careful."

Remove the upper control arm bolts and push the control arms down. This gives access to the cap bolts for the rear diff.
Remove the two long bolts and the 4 short cap bolts (with spacers) that hold the diff in place. Pull the diff back just a little. The intermediate shaft is now free.

Once the shaft is off/out:

14mm socket, 13mm wrench. Use both to remove the two nuts that hold the caliper to the diff. The 13MM wrench is used to keep the slide from spinning when removing the nut. Remove cable adjustment nut from the caliper lever (No tools necessary - left side access). Lift the cab parking brake handle to remove cable from caliper lever. Save the loose parts for reassembly.

From the right side:

Remove the rotor. Pull the caliper toward the front to clear the studs and remove.  Studs might be tight so may have tap them out (don't mung the threads).

You will see in the picture why my brake stopped working. Look closely at the pad.
It looks like the pins rusted and kept the pad from sitting flat on the rotor.
Also, the bolt sticks out past the flat surface so pushes the pad from a small spot in the center allowing the pad to pivot. I'm not a fan of that design.

And finally, the return spring is not sitting proud in its hole and so wasn't working so well (or at all). I had to heat it up and bend it to make it function properly. We'll see how long that lasts. I'll order a new spring next time.

Reassembly notes:

Bolt the caliper in loosely, install the rotor, and then tighten the caliber nuts. This makes getting the rotor over the center diff easier.

Bolt the diff side of the intermediate shaft in first. It has a spring so put in all four bolts and tighten them each a little at a time to walk the two flanges together squarely. Then bolt the transmission side. Tighten the transmission side bolts first, then the diff side bolts.

I replaced the 4 cap bolts that held the rear diff in place with 4 flange bolts. Something to consider.

I also adjusted the brake cable at the handle end to help shorten the throw of the handle.

This job was ridiculously more complicated than it needed to be, but it is what it is. There are times when a second pair of hands makes it easier to take things apart. I can only imagine what the dealer would charge in labor to change out $16 pads, so doing it yourself is well worth it.


https://imgur.com/c6Zd58S