[ctdls]

I'm sure this topic has been discussed & I've noted NWK has mentioned it.

Last season was short because of our back country ban due fires in BC, so this shifter annoyance went it away......well its back 

You don't need to bother looking up in the service manual how to adjust, that will just add to the frustration.

What I discovered when I tried to adjust the rod was a compromise between going to low range or Park.....never really working nicely.

Yesterday I removed the center console so I could watch the linkage & try to adjust again. Looking @ the lever coming out of the crankcase I could see the compromise when adjusting the linkage rod. On the shift box there are three bolts holding the top cover, I removed the top cover & re adjusted the linkage again. This time when adjusting the linkage rod, no compromise going into low range or back to park. Click click every time with the shit drum moving into its correct position. When I watched the lever coming out of the crankcase it would go very slightly past the indent in the shift drum inside. Then fall back nicely into low range or park, the other gears & neutral all seem to much happier going into the correct drum position for each gear.

Now that the linkage is adjusted corrected, let's put this sucker together. As soon as I bolted the top cover of the shift box back on the low range shift issue returned. WTF &  ,  the top cover has indents & a roller that follows these. The indent for low range does not allow the shift lever to travel far enough & correctly into low range. A very quick modification with a foredoom to allow full travel & it works correctly.

When you reassemble everything you will find the gray top cover for the console will now need a slight modification. The shift lever will touch that going into low range, a slight opening of that slot will allow the shifter properly into low range.

With it all back together & a few short test spins, it shifts very nice. You can still load the gear box so it does "not" want to shift & you have rock or move it. Over all it shifts smooth & easily......much better 

How I determined the correct adjustment for the linkage rod. With top cover of the shift box removed, you are working with the shift drum indents in the transmision only. Watch the lever coming out of the crank case, in Park & low range the lever will go slightly past the indent & click nicely into position. Adjust for equal amount going past the indent.

When I do this again I will take some photo's & update the post.

[glenlivet]

Good info. I assume the issue being addressed was the machine's charming penchant for occasionally not locking into low range and then when throttle is applied, popping back to the margin of gear dog engagement and accompanying this adventure with a loud metallic grind until the revs drop again.
Meanwhile anyone in hearing range is turning his head to see what kind of SXS is making this unappealing racket. 

I've developed the practice of keeping a bit of forward pressure on the lever until I feel that sure engagement has occurred, and sometimes feel that little final snick where had I not taken that step, it surely would have rewarded me with a grind session.
This sounds like a good cure that I'll have to look into. Thanks.

ps. puzzled by 'foredoom'. Spell check artifact? 

[REDRIDER]

I've produced the low range derp a couple times. As my time has passed with the CFmoto I too have picked up my own little trick to get her into low range without the grind, an the ever so gentle throttle burp with a little pressure on the shifter before the pedal mash to make sure she's in helps.

[ctdls]

I've developed the practice of keeping a bit of forward pressure on the lever until I feel that sure engagement has occurred, and sometimes feel that little final snick where had I not taken that step, it surely would have rewarded me with a grind session.
This sounds like a good cure that I'll have to look into. Thanks.

ps. puzzled by 'foredoom'. Spell check artifact? 

Once you modify that gate in the shifter box it will click into low range.

Foredom is the the correct "speeling" good catch 

[NMKawierider]

There's been a few times when mine hasn't been well engaged in low and has popped-out even though I've adjusted the linkage and detents. Must be the gate's throw so that's the next thing I'll be doing.

[ctdls]

Must be the gate's throw so that's the next thing I'll be doing.

Perfect description, three things to modify. First the detent, then the same piece needs to allow the shifter to move further forward....they are modified to work together. Finally the gray plastic piece to make it pretty.

When this is done & everything is back together you can remove the dumb ass inspection check my oil cover. Move the shifter from park to low range & watch the lever on the shift drum go slightly past it's proper detent & fall back into place.

[NMKawierider]

I also see I was in error about the button function..it just locks the rolling detent mechanism to prevent it from moving into some positions. That's what happens when too many years get by you. I do remember adjusting some of the notches a little though. I also added a stop for the Park position because it went way past it.   

[Sockman]

So a Fordom is basically a Dremel? 

[horseman77]

About the foredom being another dremel, the Dremel can be had for less than $100.00, while the cordon tool starts about $375.00 the last I checked and that was years ago. The price difference the quality of the two tools. For life duty go dremel For years of heavy duty to foredom! Wayne

[horseman77]

Isn't spell check a pita! Wayne

[ctdls]

Foredom is tool I used endlessly when I ported 2 stroke engines. It's a electric motor with a flex cable to the hand device, speed control is with your foot. I've a drawer dedicated to carbide tips, sanding rolls & drums. Right angle attachment to help getting into transfer ports etc.

Here is a link if anyone is interested:

https://www.foredom.net/

[Sockman]

About the foredom being another dremel, the Dremel can be had for less than $100.00, while the cordon tool starts about $375.00 the last I checked and that was years ago. The price difference the quality of the two tools. For life duty go dremel For years of heavy duty to foredom! Wayne

10-4, thx.  So the Dremel is a very poor man's Foredom.

[fourwheeler04073]

does anyone have pictures of this mod? I just bought a 2017 Z-800 and it is doing the same thing

[NMKawierider]

does anyone have pictures of this mod? I just bought a 2017 Z-800 and it is doing the same thing

I don't..but maybe someone does. I would just print-off the OP and start taking it apart. It will make sense once you see it in action.