[Devonellis]

Was out riding this weekend and my machine was running a bit hot, 4 bars, but I wasnt to worried as it was a hot day. After a long stretch of road I blew my belt again and while I was checking it out I noticed that the diff vent line where it comes out my snorkel was spewing blackened diff fluid. Also this is the 3rd time in 2 months I've blown my belt and melted my primary. My clutch case was so hot I couldn't even touch it and I have serious concerns about the primary again. I am starting to think these are some how related. But I cant figure out why the clutches and diff would be that hot. I run 28" cryptids which are a big heavier tire but I re clocked my clutch to suit. Is there any reason the internal portion of the wet clutch would be causing this heat?

[NMKawierider]

Well..let's take a step back. We know excess load on the CVT will make lots of heat..we also know all rear ends also make more heat when they are loaded..as in a loaded truck verses an empty one. So it would make sense that anything that would load the diff would also transfer to the drive system..ie clutches and belt. So..what after the diff can cause this? Or is it the diff itself...or could it be another heat source causing the CVT load but heating the diff.

I recently...and again...took mine for a run down the road and forgot to release the hand brake. It was a bit sluggish but went fine. After about 1/2 mile I started smelling something being toasted. Looked down to see that tiny little hand brake warning light on in the dash. So I stopped and checked it out. Yes..the pads were again toasted but also the disk was red hot...which transferred some of that heat to the pinion and into the diff. The front was noticeably warmer but not overly hot...but then.. it was only 1/2 mile.

OK, what else...these things are well known to have sticking brakes. Many peddles were adjusted wrong with no play at the top which wouldn't allow fluid to release back to the master. That holds the pads against the disks and causes them to wear faster yes, but also makes load on the drive train. Something to check anyway...and not just the rears..fronts dragging will also make you push harder on the gas to make it go..same thing, loading the drive train.  Big heavy tires? Yes, but mostly during acceleration. Once at speed the extra load isn't enough to cause much extra heat. How does it roll or coast in neutral? Any wheels not spin freely? How's the play in the rear diff?

You do definitely have something going on. It's just a matter of finding and fixing it.       

[Devonellis]

Pulled the clutches and diff fluid last night. Clutches were ok. How ever I did loose a slider on my secondary. This could have contributed to the heat for sure but a clutch components were intact the last 2 times I blew the belt. As for the rear diff..... fluid was completely gelled up and wouldn't even drain when I pulled the plug. Was full of metal dust as I could actually get the liquid to raise if I put a magnet close to it. Also I couldn't believe the smell of the fluid. It was an extremely sulfur smell almost like spent fire works smell. I ran 2 cans of brake cleaner through it to try and flush it out and pressurized the diff with an air line while turning the gears to try and get It flushed. Then i started putting gear oil through it and draining it. I'm still working on it but I've never seen diff fluid do that before and I'm now worried and the whole rear end. Everything still turns nicely with only minimal play from what I can tell.

[Devonellis]

How do I adjust the play in the brakes? I just put new rear pads on about a month ago?

[ctdls]

Start by placing the unit in Neutral & make sure it rolls freely, no drag from the brakes. This does not mean all is well 

I've seen the brakes begin to drag after it is driven & heat begins to build, generally you can smell the brakes @ this point. When you place the unit in neutral you will find it does not to roll freely as it did when cold.

This is just suggestion, I'm not saying it is your problem. It's an easy check to see it you are dealing with brake drag.

[NMKawierider]

The brakes are all disk do there is no adjusting but...that doesn't mean they can drag, or the sliders not seize or the peddle isn't adjusted correctly. Start by hitting the brakes then like ctdls says, doing the free roll test. If it seems to resist, check that there is free play at the top of the brake peddle. If not adjust the rod to be shorter..just enough to get some free play. If that helps, good. If not check each wheel.

I have a bad feeling about your gearcase/diff. I'm afraid it's gone after what you said. All that metal came from somewhere. Mine is aluminum so a magnet has no effect. Assume that must be case. I also am getting some black metal on the plug so I assume that's ring or pinion material. Time will tell I guess.

[Devonellis]

Ok sounds good I'll try it tonight. But I am worried about the rear diff aswell. I just did a 4x4 service on it and had the fluids changed about 500km ago or 3 months. Would this be covered under the drive line portion of the warranty if it's to far gone?

[NMKawierider]

Ok sounds good I'll try it tonight. But I am worried about the rear diff aswell. I just did a 4x4 service on it and had the fluids changed about 500km ago or 3 months. Would this be covered under the drive line portion of the warranty if it's to far gone?

Man it better be..