[John McIlhinney]

Hi all.
So I have a 1016 ZForce 800EX EPS with about 1K on the new motor. The wife and I out for a ride, about 10 miles in (and half way back) my wife says what’s the red light? About a mile back we had stopped, and it struggled on the restart, fired and ran normally. Suddenly it just died, never saw it code. Try to restart I can hear the solenoid clicking, but nothing else. Smoke from LR wheel well (not a lot and stopped right away) electrical smoke. Anyway late afternoon, rain in the forecast we walk back.
I dragged it out the next morning. BTW electrically everything works, lights, heater, directionals, fuel pump, everything. It does have the battery relocate kit, there were a bunch of questionable connections (corrosion loose ish). I found the negative terminal block with the looseish connection really stunk, burnt. I redid all of the connections, NO JOY.
Right now electrically everything works. I have 12vdc power going to the starter at least the meter says so, amps? Steady mil light no codes.
Any ideas from the hive are appreciated.

[NMKawierider]

Wondering what was burning in the LR wheel well. Need to know what it was. The 16s and 17s had issues with the main fuse holder with bad internal crimp connections but you have power to the pod so that may not be an issue. Check all those battery connections and check all the fuses in the distribution box on the right side of the steering column. Burning wires means short(s) and that means there is a possibility for a ECU to toast...let's hope not.

[John McIlhinney]

So I’m assuming this is part of the battery locate (I honestly don’t know). The terminal with the red arrow (-) chassis ground) was loose and a bit corroded to the “bus bar” it was this negative terminal block that smelled of burnt plastic. This is the LR fender well looking forward. The smoke came from this area. Everything has been disassembled cleaned and retightened. I do have a single wire starter solenoid that I will try tomorrow.

[NMKawierider]

Originally the neg cable ran from the battery to a bolt on the CVT belt cover in the front along with two chassis grounds. Check that all are still there. Prepare yourself though because having an arcing battery cable has been known to toast ECMs. When you turn the key to the run position, does all the lights in the dash light up that's supposed to? And when you turn it to the starter position, what happens? Have you tries holding the brake on while cranking it?

[John McIlhinney]

All of the grounds are there and tight. When I turn the key to ON the dash is fully lit up as always, the fuel pump cycles as it should. 100% normal looking (except for the MIL light). When I turn to start I can hear the solenoid pick and I read 12v at the starter terminal and nothing else.
And yes the brake pedal must be depressed to crank.

[NMKawierider]

So that I am clear, when you turn the key to the starter position you get 12 volts to the starter cable but the engine does not rotate...correct? If so better check if the engine will turn by hand as that symptom is one indicator of a seized engine. If the engine rotates but doesn't start...that's another matter.

[John McIlhinney]

I'm seeing 12v at the starter.
The starter solenoid clicks.
The engine turns by hand.
Will a fried ECU prevent the starter from working? I do have a spare starter and solenoid,  I'll try those this afternoon. And I'm going to hot stick the starter and see what happens. I don't have the strongest electrical knowledge and find this very frustrating. Where's the common link, starter won't turn and it just died?
Thank you for your assistance.

[John McIlhinney]

Update: It started, MIL light is reset.
So I think I had 2 separate things happen in a relatively short time.
1) As I mentioned in the first post, before it died it struggled to crank/start. I think the starter cooked here. When I put 12v on it today it is grounded ( it's 10 months old I didn't suspect that it would have failed so soon). I installed the old starter that I repaired.
2) The loose terminal created an over/under current and the MIL was triggered. When it  died the fault was captured but alas the starter was already toast. Does this sound plausible? Thoughts or comments welcome.