fuel gauge problem

Started by Cannonfoddr, July 29, 2022, 11:16:45 AM

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Cannonfoddr

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Cannonfoddr
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Does anyone happen to know what the ohm reading is suppose to be on the sending unit.  I have a gauge that just flashes.  The dealer and others have said that is the sending unit most of the time.  I put a new pump on, same problem.  Old pump had between 8 and 40 ohms depending on position of the float.  The new plump was between 40 and 350 or so.  Pretty big difference  Are either of those ranges close to what it is suppose to be?  Or do I have a bigger problem than the sending unit?
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NMKawierider

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Far as I know when it reaches certain Ohms of resistance the ECU pulses the connection. Your readings between the two units are way too different..as in if it was to start pulsing at 40, then even full it would with the new one.
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Cannonfoddr

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Im thinking maybe a universal add on might be the best way to fix the problem and not even mess with cfmoto's weirdness problems.
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Maybe..if it doesn't effect anything else.
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Cannonfoddr

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Well it seems to run fine with the old pump and sending unit.  So, not sure what adding an after market setup would mess up.  They want you to disconnect the stock meter.  Could that cause it to not pump or run right?
Maybe I will have to put in a resister or two to fake out the silly thing.  Anyone run theirs with the fuel gauge disconnected?
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#5
How does the gauge work otherwise? Is it correct with the new and old pump units? I just took a look at the wiring diagram and the ECU has nothing to do with the fuel gauge so the flashing is a built-in function of the gauge unit itself. So...IMO, it has a problem and just needs a new pod if.. the sending unit is correct.
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The gauge just flashes with both units.  I was switching pumps to get the fuel gauge to work.
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I'm not saying to do this but ..if it were me,  I would try this- unplug the sending unit at the tank. Then on the harness side, jumper the two contacts. That will send it straight to ground and should be minimum resistance..as well as show a full tank. If it still flashes, the gauge itself has the problem.
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#8
Ok that makes we want to ask.....  "I not saying do this.....but if it was me"  What in theory could go wrong?  Just asking for a friend....lol
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Quote from: Cannonfoddr on July 29, 2022, 05:43:32 PM
Ok that makes we want to ask.....  "I not saying do this.....but if it was me"  What in theory could go wrong?  Just asking for a friend....lol
If for some reason the resistance the sending unit provided was required by the gauge and having no resistance to ground by bypassing it may damage it. For me I would just say..."Oh well"...and buy a new dash/pod. But it probably won't have any effect on it.
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glenlivet

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Actually I believe the pump has nothing to do with the fuel gauge sending unit stuff, other than sharing a housing.
There's a set of whiskers that ride on a plastic plate that has eight little copper contact pads, and the number of display bars corresponds with which pad the whiskers are on at a given time. If this display never changes then chances are the contact pad setup is damaged or the wire arm is not traveling through its range.
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Quote from: glenlivet on July 29, 2022, 11:32:24 PM
Actually I believe the pump has nothing to do with the fuel gauge sending unit stuff, other than sharing a housing.
There's a set of whiskers that ride on a plastic plate that has eight little copper contact pads, and the number of display bars corresponds with which pad the whiskers are on at a given time. If this display never changes then chances are the contact pad setup is damaged or the wire arm is not traveling through its range.
All I'm seeing on the wiring diagram is one wire from the gauge (L/W) going to and through the sending unit, then to ground so I assume resistance comes into play...somehow. What I can't get a handle on is the complete difference in his Ohm readings between the two units.
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Since I've had the fuel pump out, I tested the two wires on both the new and old pumps.  The reason for the major difference in reading is because I was send the wrong unit.  They used the same part number, but sent out the unit for an Australian moto.  They seem to use a different pump and sending unit, but in the same housing.  The new one is the right size, but has the float pointing in the wrong direction to install right for the hoses to hook up.  So that explains the huge difference in the readings from the 2 sending units.  I found a universal gauge on Amazon that should be here today.  I'm just going to mount it under the dash and call it good.  The gauge was a little over $20, so a cheap fix, compared to replacing the stock unit.  I was going to use the stock wires, but after looking at how big of a pain it is to get to them.  I'll just run new wires.  No big deal, wiring is kinda my thing.  I've completely rewire several cars over the years, so this won't be that hard of a fix. 
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glenlivet

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Must be a variable resistor then, I was thinking of a different machine, mea culpa. Sounds like you have the chops to git er done. Good luck.
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Yeah..good luck.
2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS
Custom Air Intakes | Custom Exhaust Mod | SuperATV Harness | Custom Fenders | Custom Skid/Rock Sliders | 27" GBC Grim Reapers | Seizmik Mirrors |Конструктор Doors | Dr Pulley Sliders | 1.5" Wheel Spacers | BENZ Silencer (as needed) | SATV Flip Windshield W\ Rear Shield | Dual Light Bars | Diamond Plate Storage |7- 9.7" GPS Systems | Bandit Springs Rear & Gen-3 Shocks Front | Cage Chop Mod

My Videos On YouTube