[Flipper]

that is one thing I like/respect about CFMoto, for the issues I did have, they helped me on both of them. (shocks and timing chains).  Dealer is super nice as well.

Bezerk1 and I will be tackling this project,  will make sure we document and video all of it.



 

[rideordie]

Was trying to replace a rod bearing with out having to take apart the crank case. Can't get my torque wrench inside to take off. Is there a certain spec. Have repair manual but haven't got to check yet. And would it just be easier to take crankcase apart? What would it take to do so? I have cylinder #2 which is cylinder in the cab locked in, if I was to remove crank case would be okay not getting back cylinder to top dead center or how can I go about locking both in top dead center. I don't think that's possible from what I know. But I may be wrong. Someone please help. Have tore apart and need some guidance lol

Well, personally I would try to so it "In Frame". Although I have not done one of these yet, chains aren't too bad usually to do. Grab the manual, think Chinese, and go for it.

[NMKawierider]

Was trying to replace a rod bearing with out having to take apart the crank case. Can't get my torque wrench inside to take off. Is there a certain spec. Have repair manual but haven't got to check yet. And would it just be easier to take crankcase apart? What would it take to do so? I have cylinder #2 which is cylinder in the cab locked in, if I was to remove crank case would be okay not getting back cylinder to top dead center or how can I go about locking both in top dead center. I don't think that's possible from what I know. But I may be wrong. Someone please help. Have tore apart and need some guidance lol

Well, personally I would try to so it "In Frame". Although I have not done one of these yet, chains aren't too bad usually to do. Grab the manual, think Chinese, and go for it.

There is no way to change a rod bearing without splitting the case so plan on a full removal and teardown. Most shops will install the rod bearings on the crank before installing the crank, then assembling the case. The manual will step you through this...well, that is as best it can as the translations are only so so. Valve timing is the least of your worries at this point....and yes, there are very specific tolerances for the rod bearings that must be adhered to...as well as many other areas. I'm an old Honda mechanic and I have to tell you even I wouldn't attempt to rebuild mine just because I don't have the shop or all the special tools needed for it as I once did....and I can afford to send it off to someone to do for me. nFlow does an excellent job and has a great warranty. 

[glenlivet]

crank it over with the air cleaner off and spray some ether, carb cleaner, brakekleen, whatever is flammable in the throttle body...

Sorry to come off strongly if I do but please please, never spray starting fluid/ether or any other flammable solvent into the intake of a gas engine. There is no better oil film remover in the world than that stuff. You will greatly accelerate the wear of the cylinder and rings and any other contacting and moving metal parts.
Raw gasoline if anything. A capful in the intake is enough.

[glenlivet]

2nd on the compression test. Check the plug too. Low, cap of oil down the hole. Gets better than it's the bore/rings. No change, valves. Holding it to the boards should dump fuel in there. It will run bad until it clears all the extra fuel. Your plugs should be black if rich.

In most M/C EFI systems I have encountered, holding wide open throttle at cranking speed shuts the fuel off completely, in fact that's how you clear a flooded EFI equipped engine.

[REDRIDER]

crank it over with the air cleaner off and spray some ether, carb cleaner, brakekleen, whatever is flammable in the throttle body...

Sorry to come off strongly if I do but please please, never spray starting fluid/ether or any other flammable solvent into the intake of a gas engine. There is no better oil film remover in the world than that stuff. You will greatly accelerate the wear of the cylinder and rings and any other contacting and moving metal parts.
Raw gasoline if anything. A capful in the intake is enough.

I wouldn't use it everyday. It is a quick and simple test just to see if it fires to tell you if you have a fuel problem or a spark problem, there will be no harm done, just watch your face in case you backfire =).  If you use gas you are better off putting it in a spray bottle rather than dumping in liquid fuel as well.

[NMKawierider]

Modern starting fluids have a low percentage of ether and also have a lubricant incorporated in the mix. And you would only use very small shots. Really couldn't use enough to wash-out the cylinders of oil. That amount would blow the heads off...lol...which my dad did back in the 50s to his Buick with 100% ether alcohol on a rag. Should have seen his eyes when he came back in the house...then he had to tell Mom what he had done...Oh Boy..