[TheHermit]

Does anyone know if a dry clutch uses the same clocking / weight mods as the wet clutch? IE: A-1, B-2 / 18oz, 24oz, etc? I know the actual design of the weights are different.

[NMKawierider]

The dry clutch weights are of a different design but function in the same general idea. The actual weight of the flyweights are very different. The secondary clocking will be the same as the standard clocking chart as far as preloads. The effect will differ as the primary weights differ.

[TheHermit]

Thank you NMK, you are an artesian aquifer of knowledge.  Do you have suggestions for weights in a dry clutch on a machine loaded to max weight?

[NMKawierider]

Do you have suggestions for weights in a dry clutch on a machine loaded to max weight?

It's unified tuning between the centrifugal forces applied by the RPMs and weights to the preloading and resistance the secondary clocking offers. In most cases people want the best power at all times so..a setting that keeps the engine RPMs in or just under the best power and torque bands is preferred. That usually means increasing the overall RPMs even engagement from idle. The secondary is always the first thing you adjust as it is the load sensor. Increasing it's preload to match the increased load is the first step. If you think you will be at MAX load capacity and most likely rotational mass from increased tire size then you should go to B2 to start with and see how it acts overall even during back-shifting. If it acts and reacts the way you need it leave it...if not, try C2 but know beyond B2 these start having a problem back-shifting. Once the load adjustments are correct you can then tune the primary. Lighter weights causes it to have to increase RPMs to achieve the same force to overcome the resistance of the secondary and heavier brings it down. You will probably want lighter but know that a gram each can make a huge change so only go about 2 grams lighter. That will probably raise the stall by 700-800 RPM and that will carry throughout the RPM range. Just go easy...unless you feel you are way below the power band. The secondary adjustments will have already changed how high it runs after it starts moving so...just take your time and tune it for your usage. Be patient.      

[TheHermit]

*EDIT* Your reply showed up while I was typing this  Aweome info NMK.  Adam from Airdam clutches and Mainstreet cycle actually replied to emails, getting good info on CVT recommendations. Woo hoo!

One term I do not understand is "back-shifting". I have not yet driven my machine.

[NMKawierider]

*EDIT* Your reply showed up while I was typing this  Aweome info NMK.  Adam from Airdam clutches and Mainstreet cycle actually replied to emails, getting good info on CVT recommendations. Woo hoo!

One term I do not understand is "back-shifting". I have not yet driven my machine.

Back-shifting with a CVT is like down-shifting a transmission. When you come to a hill and apply the gas, a car will down-shift to a lower gear to get the power it needs. Also like nailing it to get the "Passing Gear". CVTs change ratios....and when they go down or back toward where they started from, they call it back shifting. Going up they call it shift-out. Probably should call it all something else but... Long ago I did a little back-shifting test when I was doing some tuning. It was just from a slow cruse to a nailed throttle. A bit silly now that I watch it so many years later..but you get the idea.

[TheHermit]

I kinda suspected that's what it means, but since a CVT don't actually "shift" (as in manual transmission with a clutch pedal) I wasn't sure.