[TunaChaser]

Sorry to say, more often than not it ends up being simply too low of oil pressure with a pending engine failure.
One of the primary issues I am reading, and seeing with my own eyes (riding with other's and their rigs outside of and around Parker, AZ) is that people do not understand how incredibly important it is to maintain the air filter.
Depending on how dusty an environment you ride in this may mean cleaning, and or replacing a air filter daily if not more often.
And, one has to remember that this can be an accumulative issue where a year's worth of dust intrusion finally ends of doing ample damage to the engine where you start to ever so slowly, lose oil pressure. This will show up first at idle.
I'm a strong proponent of a "Particle Separator" being installed up before your intake air ever enters the stock air box and filter.
   

[NMKawierider]

Sorry to say, more often than not it ends up being simply too low of oil pressure with a pending engine failure.
One of the primary issues I am reading, and seeing with my own eyes (riding with other's and their rigs outside of and around Parker, AZ) is that people do not understand how incredibly important it is to maintain the air filter.
Depending on how dusty an environment you ride in this may mean cleaning, and or replacing a air filter daily if not more often.
And, one has to remember that this can be an accumulative issue where a year's worth of dust intrusion finally ends of doing ample damage to the engine where you start to ever so slowly, lose oil pressure. This will show up first at idle.
I'm a strong proponent of a "Particle Separator" being installed up before your intake air ever enters the stock air box and filter.

I'd like to second this and add that ever sense I added the second Unifilter to mine, my oil stopped changing color between changes other then a slight tone change. In 800 miles it still can't be seen on the stick other then the "Shiny V Not shiny" where before even with the one oversized Unifilter in the box it did change. I believe this may be due to the fact that CFM ports their engine crank case vent outside the filtered air area in the box where others like Kawasaki ports theirs inside the filtered air. If true, then dust and dirt is being introduced to the bottom ends and is the cause for so many rod bearing failures and...what starts out as low oil pressure readings. Adding a large in-line filter on the vent tube may not be a bad idea for all of us...especially those without extra filters and Particle Separators. I may do it just for GP. I intend to replace the Donaldson TopSpin prefilter I have with an S&B but after I do my cage mod and adjust all the pipe lengths.     

[TunaChaser]

Sorry to say, more often than not it ends up being simply too low of oil pressure with a pending engine failure.
One of the primary issues I am reading, and seeing with my own eyes (riding with other's and their rigs outside of and around Parker, AZ) is that people do not understand how incredibly important it is to maintain the air filter.
Depending on how dusty an environment you ride in this may mean cleaning, and or replacing a air filter daily if not more often.
And, one has to remember that this can be an accumulative issue where a year's worth of dust intrusion finally ends of doing ample damage to the engine where you start to ever so slowly, lose oil pressure. This will show up first at idle.
I'm a strong proponent of a "Particle Separator" being installed up before your intake air ever enters the stock air box and filter.

I'd like to second this and add that ever sense I added the second Unifilter to mine, my oil stopped changing color between changes other then a slight tone change. In 800 miles it still can't be seen on the stick other then the "Shiny V Not shiny" where before even with the one oversized Unifilter in the box it did change. I believe this may be due to the fact that CFM ports their engine crank case vent outside the filtered air area in the box where others like Kawasaki ports theirs inside the filtered air. If true, then dust and dirt is being introduced to the bottom ends and is the cause for so many rod bearing failures and...what starts out as low oil pressure readings. Adding a large in-line filter on the vent tube may not be a bad idea for all of us...especially those without extra filters and Particle Separators. I may do it just for GP. I intend to replace the Donaldson TopSpin prefilter I have with an S&B but after I do my cage mod and adjust all the pipe lengths.   

Good idea on the crank case breather filter!
Just a simple, washable crank case breather filter mounted inside the air intake/filter box will do it.

[glenlivet]

Perfect! (UNI UP-123) I am on it right now. Thanks

[NMKawierider]

Perfect! (UNI UP-123) I am on it right now. Thanks

Not sure how you will adapt that to fit on the inside of the cover...unless you are going to just stick it on the tube-end and plug the box port. Does yours pull oil in? Mine doesn't...but I have eliminated all box restriction/vacuum with all this 2.5" & 3" plumbing.

[glenlivet]

Yes I intend to just plug it onto the vent tube and block the hole in the case. It doesn't pull much oil at this time, but a little bit. It's cheap enough to experiment with.

[asam9]

Mines done this since new. I. Installed a digital oil pressure Guage and it definitely will drop to zero when coming to a stop intermittently. Never was able to resolve. I. Have great pressure when idling and cruising around. I did replace the pressure relief valve with no luck on fixing the problem

Thanks for the reply.  What machine do you have and how many miles are on it.? 0 Pressure is not good for long term engine longevity. I now have over 1700 miles on mine.    I have found that if I run at the top of the cross hatch marks on the dipstick it happens much less often but it still does happen, especially on a quick stop or very tight twisty turns.  I hate seeing it flash on the screen.

[asam9]

Mines done this since new. I. Installed a digital oil pressure Guage and it definitely will drop to zero when coming to a stop intermittently. Never was able to resolve. I. Have great pressure when idling and cruising around. I did replace the pressure relief valve with no luck on fixing the problem

Thanks for the reply.  What machine do you have and how many miles are on it.? 0 Pressure is not good for long term engine longevity. I now have over 1700 miles on mine.    I have found that if I run at the top of the cross hatch marks on the dipstick it happens much less often but it still does happen, especially on a quick stop or very tight twisty turns.  I hate seeing it flash on the screen.

I have a 2020 zforce trail. I have about 700 miles now. I actually hooked up a digital Guage so I can monitor it while ridding. And it definitely drops to zero intermittently when coming to a stop. Never figured out why though. I have tried replacing the relief valve and bypassing the oil cooler. Still no luck though

[asam9]

You said you replaced the pressure relief valve? Is yours an 800 and what year please. Mine has low oil pressure all the time now. I'm suspecting that valve. Until the service manual I ordered shows up I was just wondering if you can get to that valve from outside the case with the engine in the buggy.

Mines done this since new. I. Installed a digital oil pressure Guage and it definitely will drop to zero when coming to a stop intermittently. Never was able to resolve. I. Have great pressure when idling and cruising around. I did replace the pressure relief valve with no luck on fixing the problem

I have a 2020 zforce 800 trail. The pressure relief is in the driver side behind the cvt. You have to remove the inner cover of the cvt to get to the pressure relief. It's a little of a pain but it can be done with the motor still in. Took me about 4 hrs to do the whole the job