[John H]

I brought the buggy home from the cabin to mess around with the exhaust leak, full grease, driver door adjustment, uni filter cleaning and seatbelt release and lube.  Since it was here I decided to open the belt case because the unit has 1650+ miles on it and I have only owned since 1100.  I had no idea if the belt had ever been replaced.  I found the belt to look really good but there was a fair amount of dust in the housing.  (belt dust) maybe even a little regular road dust.  I was surprised that there was no filter on the belt fresh air louver in the cab.  Since I was in that far I decided I was curious to see if the secondary had ever been re-clocked.  It looked like the nut was taken off before.  I was able to remove it with a regular air impact but of course I had to buy a $32 36MM impact socket. someone had greased the nut so I assume the belt had been changed.  It has markings on it but I cant read it.  I just made sure I knew what way the belt came off.  It was set a B-1  SO since I was that far, I made a clutch spring compressor and re-clocked it to C-1.  scotch brited the sheaves and put it back together.  I decided to order an Ultimax belt but Amazon cant get it here before my weekend ride  so I Blew out any dust in the case and re-assembeled everything.  Man what a difference did that make.  My buggy came with the z950 stock wheels and tires off the 2021 model.  They are 27" dia.  I'm not sure if that was robbing power or if the b-1 setting was just making it essentially gutless but c-1 is quite the difference.  I don't know how much top end I have lost because I just rode it around the block but I will find out this weekend.  I don't believe I have ever been able to get even close to the 7700 RPM that is supposed to be limited to anyway but I will do some testing on the trails this weekend.

[NMKawierider]

Yes, a huge difference and you shouldn't loose any top end on C1. B2 gets a little iffy but as ling as you get full shiftout before you either run out of power to push it through the air or the RPM limiter, you won't. I'm on B2 w/22 gran weights and with my windshields on I max out at about 62 and 6700 rpm. With them off..I still can't get to the limiter but I get 68. But that's at 5600 feet so I'm down 15%+ on HP. I always liked how mine was on C1 and will be going back to it next time I have it open.

[John H]

Yes, a huge difference and you shouldn't loose any top end on C1. B2 gets a little iffy but as ling as you get full shiftout before you either run out of power to push it through the air or the RPM limiter, you won't. I'm on B2 w/22 gran weights and with my windshields on I max out at about 62 and 6700 rpm. With them off..I still can't get to the limiter but I get 68. But that's at 5600 feet so I'm down 15%+ on HP. I always liked how mine was on C1 and will be going back to it next time I have it open.

I am also running front and back windshield. the front is a flip down but these days I run with it up so I can keep extra cab heat in to keep the wife happy. IF C-1 is this good and little to no top end loss, why in the world does the factory start at b-1?  Maybe to save on transfer case or joint failures?? maybe its for better belt life?  I wish I could have put on a new belt to keep from opening it up again for a while but it is what it is.  I also found last night that I'm totally missing the exhaust joint donut all together.  this is on the lower y pipe that joins the front and rear cylinder.  must have totally burned out.

[NMKawierider]

Yes, a huge difference and you shouldn't loose any top end on C1. B2 gets a little iffy but as ling as you get full shiftout before you either run out of power to push it through the air or the RPM limiter, you won't. I'm on B2 w/22 gran weights and with my windshields on I max out at about 62 and 6700 rpm. With them off..I still can't get to the limiter but I get 68. But that's at 5600 feet so I'm down 15%+ on HP. I always liked how mine was on C1 and will be going back to it next time I have it open.

I am also running front and back windshield. the front is a flip down but these days I run with it up so I can keep extra cab heat in to keep the wife happy. IF C-1 is this good and little to no top end loss, why in the world does the factory start at b-1?  Maybe to save on transfer case or joint failures?? maybe its for better belt life?  I wish I could have put on a new belt to keep from opening it up again for a while but it is what it is.  I also found last night that I'm totally missing the exhaust joint donut all together.  this is on the lower y pipe that joins the front and rear cylinder.  must have totally burned out.

Springs get weak and back-pressure pushes the joints apart, then the bouncing around and hot exhaust gasses burn the donut to a point that it just breaks and falls out. Fix it soon as not only does it leaks outward but there are times when it draws cold air in...and that cold air against the hot exhaust valve stems is one thing that does warp them...then it's a valve job. And don't go back with those POS CFM springs. Get Moose. With the donut in, measure between the loops in millimeters then deduct 20% and get springs as close to that length as possible. End of problem. Not cheap..but neither is doing a top end..especially because of some cold air that got in at the wrong time. Here's where I got mine.

https://www.motosport.com/moose-exhaust-springs

[John H]

Yes, a huge difference and you shouldn't loose any top end on C1. B2 gets a little iffy but as ling as you get full shiftout before you either run out of power to push it through the air or the RPM limiter, you won't. I'm on B2 w/22 gran weights and with my windshields on I max out at about 62 and 6700 rpm. With them off..I still can't get to the limiter but I get 68. But that's at 5600 feet so I'm down 15%+ on HP. I always liked how mine was on C1 and will be going back to it next time I have it open.

I am also running front and back windshield. the front is a flip down but these days I run with it up so I can keep extra cab heat in to keep the wife happy. IF C-1 is this good and little to no top end loss, why in the world does the factory start at b-1?  Maybe to save on transfer case or joint failures?? maybe its for better belt life?  I wish I could have put on a new belt to keep from opening it up again for a while but it is what it is.  I also found last night that I'm totally missing the exhaust joint donut all together.  this is on the lower y pipe that joins the front and rear cylinder.  must have totally burned out.

Springs get weak and back-pressure pushes the joints apart, then the bouncing around and hot exhaust gasses burn the donut to a point that it just breaks and falls out. Fix it soon as not only does it leaks outward but there are times when it draws cold air in...and that cold air against the hot exhaust valve stems is one thing that does warp them...then it's a valve job. And don't go back with those POS CFM springs. Get Moose. With the donut in, measure between the loops in millimeters then deduct 20% and get springs as close to that length as possible. End of problem. Not cheap..but neither is doing a top end..especially because of some cold air that got in at the wrong time. Here's where I got mine.

https://www.motosport.com/moose-exhaust-springs
[/quote I have a replacement donut on order but it will take a week.  I have a ride planned for Saturday, So I am planning wrapping the joint with some very high temp header wrap that I use on my classic car to protect the plug wires.  It can be direct contact with the headers so it should hold up for a Saturday ride. I have also shortened the springs and even without the donut in there the leak is barely detectable now. I don't want to get fresh air through that joint and have the rear oxy sensor tell the computer that it needs to be richer.