[Bobbed06]

i understand, so is it reasonable that i will able to spin it with just my hands??
sound impossible to me...
how hard is it to replace the one way bearing?
do i will need to have any special tools to do it?
Thx!!

Have you looked at your service manual?

[thewind60]

i saw it yes, but i am wondering if i will need any special tool like needed in order to open the secondary( the special holder)
BTW, both of the dust boot on the shaft was damaged, all of you need to check it as for my opinion its been mad from bad material...
in general, i think that CFmoto didn't put a lot of attention on quality, and i think that this machine start to do a lot of issue after 3K kilometer.
 

[NMKawierider]

You will need a spring compressor to work on the secondary.

[thewind60]

why spring compressor?

[NMKawierider]

why spring compressor?

Watch my videos.

[thewind60]

but that only if i do modification to the clutch right?
if i just open both of the pulley to get into the wet clutch why i need spring compressor?
sorry if i miss understand you...

[NMKawierider]

but that only if i do modification to the clutch right?
if i just open both of the pulley to get into the wet clutch why i need spring compressor?
sorry if i miss understand you...

Oh, no then. If you are not taking the secondary apart, just taking it off then you don't need one.

[Bobbed06]

If you are going into the clutch looking for issues, I would recommend disassembling the secondary as a sliding sheave that is hanging up will cause all sorts of upshifting,downshifting, and belt issues.

Tools to service the clutch of the vehicle you own are kinda mandatory in the old toolbox. Along with optional weights, or replacements and a belt.

One of the stand out reasons I like the arctic cat wildcat sport clutch. very simple to access,service,upgrade,and tune.

[thewind60]

yes i agree, today i just open the CVT case and 1 thing i am sure is that there was alot of dust there...
i dont think this is the issue of the clutch diss engagement...
i will open the Drive pulley to check that the rollers are ok and install correctly which i am sure they are...
the funny thing is that i dont remember i had this issue before i moved to DR pulley,,,, and maybe to change to 24g without changing the clutch setting is not so good....
i was just thinking that since the rollers are lighter they will also diss engaged earlier... but i am not sure about it...

[Bobbed06]

My experience with clutching a vehicle with engine brakes.

I prefer leaving all the drive clutching stock, and changing only the secondary spring tension or in the CF Moto case clocking the spring to achieve gearing preferred for my setup. Changing stall speed by using lighter rollers seems a waste of fuel and engine life to me. If my engine is revving, I want the clutch to be pulling. I have in the past, went heavier on roller weights than stock to lower engine RPM engagement, but never lighter.

[NMKawierider]

However on these with wet clutches, it's the wet clutch springs or weight of the shoes that set the stall or delay of actual engagement as the belts are always engaged. Clocking the secondary plus different rollers/sliders only tunes the shiftout and backshift characteristics. I agree on clocking or setting the secondary spring resistance to suit the needs first, then only tune the primary if needed. Some are talking about slugging the wet clutch shoes to add mass to strengthen engagement but that will also lower the stall which is already less then 700 rpms on most of these. I'm not sure you really want it to engage at or just above idle. I guess someone needs to do it and see. It won't be me...lol.  Mine performs perfectly as is.

[Bobbed06]

Yea, slugging the wet clutch shoes with weight adds alot of durability on the Yamahas that have extreme mods. According to Emerson he has noted high amounts of wear on wet clutch shoes at fairly low miles. This could be the fix. If anything just drill the shoes and add a bolt and lock nut of there isnt a place for a slug.

[NMKawierider]

I'm also pretty sure a lot of these wet clutch wearing issues are caused by people leaving it high range in situations that they should have been in low. Rule of thumb- If you will be moving at or under 5mph, use low. That will keep solid shoe contact because of the higher RPMs and avoid slipping as much as possible. Because if it's slipping...it's wearing. Pure and simple.

[Bobbed06]

I'm also pretty sure a lot of these wet clutch wearing issues are caused by people leaving it high range in situations that they should have been in low. Rule of thumb- If you will be moving at or under 5mph, use low. That will keep solid shoe contact because of the higher RPMs and avoid slipping as much as possible. Because if it's slipping...it's wearing. Pure and simple.

Yeup....I agree. So many times I see people crawling at granny speeds in CVT vehicles in high gear. Thats terrible for these style clutches.

[thewind60]

so guys
do you think that maybe if i will back to the stock rollers the issue can go away?
thx