[thewind60]

hi everyone!
i have recently changed the roller to DR pulley for 24 gram but still didnt change the clutch setting as i want to C1.
the issue i face recently is that when i go down hill the clutch diss engaged in speed of ~ 20Kmh and i hearing wiered noises from the Variator like it trying to touch no touch.... then if i hit the throttle it will somehow get engaged...
what can be the reason?
one more issue.... i hear very anoying noise when i slow down from lets say 70kmh so in around 60 i am starting to hear grinding noises but its go away in high speed, i was starting to think that maybe its the exhaust springs or something else but its sound bad!
any idea for 2 issues above?
Thx!!
 

[NMKawierider]

Because the belt itself is never disengaged from the clutched regardless of whether you use rollers or slides, it is the wet clutch and it's spring rate that will determine when the shoes will disengage. However, you are reporting odd noises, and some of these noises are linked to primary retention backing off and if this happens, then yes, you will free-wheel at lower speeds. Better check the torque of the primary clutch. Must be 80ftlbs.   

[thewind60]

You must referring to the primary nut right? How the torque is related to clutch diss engage?

[NMKawierider]

You must referring to the primary nut right? How the torque is related to clutch diss engage?

If it backs off, it lets the clutch open all the way and the belt gets slack. Just something to check. If you are sure you torqued it correctly, then it won't be the problem however in any case check that the belt is tight. The sliders can also be installed wrong and could cause this.

[Cosmosdan]

If these problems appeared after you changed your sliders than it would be a good idea to check to make sure the nut is tight and sliders are in correct. Engine braking can be noisy on a steep hill sometimes but I think you should be able to pick out that noise by now.

[Scottzforce800]

Okay  I am having this problem now.   Let me start from the beginning or at least the beginning of these repairs.   About a month ago I got a rattle and knock from cylinder head toward the cab.   After further inspection the chain guides and tensioners were wore out.   Took this piece of crap in for the third time to the dealer and had repairs done under warranty.  I thought maybe this time with a different dealer I would get my machine back and everything be OK.   The actual engine sounds pretty good now,  but the clutch is loud as hell.  I took it for one ride and knew that the clutch was not sounding correct.   By the time I got back home it was dis-engaging  and free wheeling every time I let off the gas   I know that you are thinking why did they pull the clutch apart and I am thinking the same thing but they told me it was to check everything since my warranty ran out yesterday.   So after reading this I guess I will have to assume   They did not torque something correctly most likely the nuts on the primary and secondary clutches.  Now I know what all of you are thinking just take it back and have them fix the problem that they created.  Well like most of us the dealer closest to me is two hours away and this will make the third time in two months plus I have people expecting me to ride with them for the next two weekends.   I am suppose to be the guide but I guess I will let a lot of people down.   So my advice to everyone unless you love working on these machines a lot is when you get close to 2000 miles get rid of it because all you will have is problems after that.   

[Bobbed06]

Okay  I am having this problem now.   Let me start from the beginning or at least the beginning of these repairs.   About a month ago I got a rattle and knock from cylinder head toward the cab.   After further inspection the chain guides and tensioners were wore out.   Took this piece of crap in for the third time to the dealer and had repairs done under warranty.  I thought maybe this time with a different dealer I would get my machine back and everything be OK.   The actual engine sounds pretty good now,  but the clutch is loud as hell.  I took it for one ride and knew that the clutch was not sounding correct.   By the time I got back home it was dis-engaging  and free wheeling every time I let off the gas   I know that you are thinking why did they pull the clutch apart and I am thinking the same thing but they told me it was to check everything since my warranty ran out yesterday.   So after reading this I guess I will have to assume   They did not torque something correctly most likely the nuts on the primary and secondary clutches.  Now I know what all of you are thinking just take it back and have them fix the problem that they created.  Well like most of us the dealer closest to me is two hours away and this will make the third time in two months plus I have people expecting me to ride with them for the next two weekends.   I am suppose to be the guide but I guess I will let a lot of people down.   So my advice to everyone unless you love working on these machines a lot is when you get close to 2000 miles get rid of it because all you will have is problems after that.

That is a real hassle. What were the previous problems your 800 was in the shop for? Guess its time to take the clutch apart and inspect,retorque everything.

[NMKawierider]

Wow...well I guess pop the cover and take a quick check. Hope it's not a wet clutch issue but,,,it could be.

[chuddly]

The Z force has a one way bearing.  It sounds like that may be the issue with yours.  The wet clutch would not disengage while the engine is up in RPM because it would go against the laws of physics.  How ever with a bad one way bearing it can happen because that is what it is literally meant to do. 

[thewind60]

how the one way bearing can be tested?
i open the cover and i can spin my primary easily to both direction...
how i can test if its ok?

[NMKawierider]

how the one way bearing can be tested?
i open the cover and i can spin my primary easily to both direction...
how i can test if its ok?

If you can spin the primary easily to both directions...the one way bearing is broken. Easy test.

[thewind60]

sorry  i have just checked it again and one direction is very easy and the other is very hard if at all....
i wounder if its good enough test....

[NMKawierider]

sorry  i have just checked it again and one direction is very easy and the other is very hard if at all....
i wounder if its good enough test....

The way that it turns hard...which is the direction of rotation, should turn the engine over and not just be hard and slip.

[thewind60]

i understand, so is it reasonable that i will able to spin it with just my hands??
sound impossible to me...
how hard is it to replace the one way bearing?
do i will need to have any special tools to do it?
Thx!!

[NMKawierider]

i understand, so is it reasonable that i will able to spin it with just my hands??
sound impossible to me...
how hard is it to replace the one way bearing?
do i will need to have any special tools to do it?
Thx!!

I think you can turn the engine over with your hands on the primary. As for replacing it, I don't think there is any special tools but the next cover on the case will have to come off. Check the manual for seal and gasket needs.