[Sockman]

Finally got back to this project and this is really confusing.  I added front signals, LEDs, and hooked them all up and nothing.  I get a very faint light on the tester at the signal, but not enough to trigger the light.  So I grabbed an LED flasher that I have from another machine, and it gives a momentary, one-time only flash on the signal light but then stops.  So I fire up the machine and now the signals work, but only if the machine is running.  If I put the OEM flasher back in, I get nothing (running or not).  I looked at the diagram and it would appear the harness has a couple wires out of place.  I can't figure it out.  The wiring diagram would have you believe the grey and the green wires are on the outside, with the black/brown in the middle.  My harness has the grey in the middle.

[NMKawierider]

Yeah..I can see where that could be an issue. I guess you could switch them around and see. They will come out.

[Sockman]

Yeah..I can see where that could be an issue. I guess you could switch them around and see. They will come out.

How accurate do you think that wiring diagram is? 

[NMKawierider]

Yeah..I can see where that could be an issue. I guess you could switch them around and see. They will come out.

How accurate do you think that wiring diagram is? 

Accurate enough that I use it to count the pins on the ECU and see the expected wire color on that pin. I think the worst that can happen is it blows a fuse.

But I have to ask, as there are leads on both sides of the connector, is one side correct as per the diagram? And is that the flasher? I thought it would look like something else....like a flasher or a relay..look'n thing....and up under the dash. If that's the trailer connector all there is there is Tail & Brake light (each branches to two) and a ground...I believe.

[Sockman]

Yes, one of the leads is correct per the diagram.  3 wires going into the OEM flasher, which mounts under the dash.  The OEM flasher is just a black box, no wires.  I did swap those two wires and put the old flasher back in and same negative result.  Put my other flasher in (the one pictured) and it does work, so I guess I'll just roll with that.  Got all my lights installed and just a few things to button up and the flashers are done.  I find it odd that they will only flash with the engine running. 

I guess I could pull that trailer light receptacle off and make sure there's nothing funky going on there, too.  Good thought.

Also, my emergency hazards don't want to work, either.  And this machine came equipped with that switch.  Go figure.  Plus that switch is a momentary ON switch, which doesn't make sense for flashers.

[Sockman]

What's weird on mine is that I only get a really faint read on my tester light on the grey wire that goes into the flasher.  It's not enough to "trigger" the flash so to speak, or even light up the LED turn signal.  I put the tester at the signal light and get only the same faint read.

When the machine is running, it is enough to trigger the flasher and the turn signals, but only with my other flasher.  I'm thinking there's something going on with this grey wire that supposedly goes from the flasher to the hazard switch and turn switch.  I took the turn signal switch apart and that all looks good inside.  It's hard to follow the wires cause they go into a big bundle, and I'm not feeling that ambitious.  Maybe I'll take a look at the hazard switch, see if anything going on in there.

[NMKawierider]

One thing I know about "old" flasher systems is that it's the load on the flasher that makes it flash. Different wattage bulbs made them either flash faster or slower and no bulb would make them either not flash at all or very short, rapid pulses. For LEDs that don't pull much load at all it takes a special or different flasher, one for the low draw of the LEDs not one for an incandescent bulb. Doesn't explain why it flashed running and not...when not though. But there is a voltage difference between the two states. 

I also wonder about the Hazard switch being momentary. Mine is not (or maybe I don't have one). The momentaries I had were the horn and the over-ride..which I switched-out to an On/Off. I'm wondering if there is something up with that switch..and maybe a contact inside.

[Sockman]

Holy caca.  I don't have a hazard switch.  I was confusing the override switch with that.  Good lawd.  I've never used it.  This is what you use when you don't want it to cut out in reverse, right?  I don't think I've ever been in a spot where I needed it.  Didn't know I had it.   

But yeah, back to the signals.  Yes, the old school flashers won't trigger an LED properly.  But since these machines come with LED signals, one would think the OE flasher should work.  Others have done it.  I've got something else going on.  Back at it.

[NMKawierider]

Oh Just a little about the over-ride switch, it only effects the RPM limiter for the 4wd in the dif-loc position...at least on the 14s-16s. If you want the reverse limiter to go away, you will have to snip the lead on the ECU like I show in my How To video.

[Sockman]

Oh Just a little about the over-ride switch, it only effects the RPM limiter for the 4wd in the dif-loc position...at least on the 14s-16s. If you want the reverse limiter to go away, you will have to snip the lead on the ECU like I show in my How To video.

Oh, now its coming back to me.  I actually have used that.  Once.  Don't get old, man.  Memory is the first to go.

[NMKawierider]

Oh Just a little about the over-ride switch, it only effects the RPM limiter for the 4wd in the dif-loc position...at least on the 14s-16s. If you want the reverse limiter to go away, you will have to snip the lead on the ECU like I show in my How To video.

Oh, now its coming back to me.  I actually have used that.  Once.  Don't get old, man.  Memory is the first to go.

Too late..just turned 65 this month.

[Sockman]

Oh Just a little about the over-ride switch, it only effects the RPM limiter for the 4wd in the dif-loc position...at least on the 14s-16s. If you want the reverse limiter to go away, you will have to snip the lead on the ECU like I show in my How To video.

Oh, now its coming back to me.  I actually have used that.  Once.  Don't get old, man.  Memory is the first to go.

Too late..just turned 65 this month.

Happy belated birthday, senior citizen! 

So, if you were to name that override toggle switch, what would you call it?  Limiter override?

[NMKawierider]

Oh Just a little about the over-ride switch, it only effects the RPM limiter for the 4wd in the dif-loc position...at least on the 14s-16s. If you want the reverse limiter to go away, you will have to snip the lead on the ECU like I show in my How To video.

Oh, now its coming back to me.  I actually have used that.  Once.  Don't get old, man.  Memory is the first to go.

Too late..just turned 65 this month.

Happy belated birthday, senior citizen! 

So, if you were to name that override toggle switch, what would you call it?  Limiter override?

Sure...yeah.

[Riffian]

Has anyone used or know of a LED light bar that has been used as a turn signal? I would imagine it would be something along the lines of a PD one. Looks like a simple job to wire to a switch, and you would be good to go. Thanks.

[Pnw zforce rider]

just finished add turn signal to my 2021 Zforce, I bought factory turn switch, flasher, and extra plug, same as front ones, machine came with two when I bought it. front was a piece of cake plug into front plugs that are already there. wire your lights into them, I used 3/4 micro lights up front, rear I located factory plug that goes into taillights, on the left side you will find a orange wire in the plug splice into it for left turn, this plug is a little hard to find as its more in the center coming across the back, right side the plug is easy to get to, its a blue  wire, splice into it for right turn. The extra two wire plug you will see just past taillight plug its for license plate light I think, I plugged into it just for ground, and spliced ground from my added turn lights into green ground wire. As for the switch and flasher it was all just plug and go after dropping panel below switches. Indicators in dash even work.