[PunksMoto]

I did a search and found a few brief discussions but has anyone added a second battery to their Trail model along with a smart battery isolator charger and have details and possibly photos of their install?  I'm assuming an additional battery will mount under the driver's seat and I'd like to put it in it's own battery box if the box will fit as well.  I'm looking at a True UTV dual battery kit to manage the charge of both batteries.  It seems to me the logical installation would be to buy a 12 volt "deep cycle" second battery wired to the main starting battery with the True system and then run my additional load (ATV Soundbar, ATV Light Bar) off the secondary deep cycle battery.  As I understand it the True system will first charge the main battery and once the battery has sufficient charge it will apply a charge to the secondary battery all along isolating the batteries from each other. 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WRG2U58?pf_rd_r=53GN7GKD13B9RDKY7X0V&pf_rd_p=5ae2c7f8-e0c6-4f35-9071-dc3240e894a8&pd_rd_r=bdae7d8e-1c17-4a1b-8cc8-073edfdfffdb&pd_rd_w=AUQyA&pd_rd_wg=WbnTE&ref_=pd_gw_unk

[motoman]

Just had this conversation with my dealer today. They do not recommend adding a second battery as the system isn't designed to handle it.

[PunksMoto]

Just had this conversation with my dealer today. They do not recommend adding a second battery as the system isn't designed to handle it.

Thank you for taking the time to respond although that response from the dealer is pretty vague.  Did they give you any additional specific information on why they don't recommend it?  I would imagine CF Moto uses a stator to generate a charge for the battery typical of all other ATV/UTVs.  The second battery I'm looking at adding is isolated from the primary start battery via the True isolator and only gets a charge once the primary battery reaches a specified voltage.  I won't even be modifying the factory battery cables or factory harnesses.  I wonder what they would recommend when adding energy consuming accessories such as light bars and sound systems?

[motoman]

They just said the system wasn't designed to handle charging 2 batteries, and, depending on the load, you could burn out the stator. I was running 2 batteries without an isolator.

[NMKawierider]

Shows what they know. These stators, unlike automotive alternators, and not variable depending on load. They are just magnets whishing by coils generating the same 3-phase AC power all the time. A little more at higher RPMs then lower, sure. It's the rectifier/regulators that take that three-phase AC power and convert it to DC and apply it to the load. They make a lot of heat already and it's true the more load it has to overcome the hotter it can get. Its also true that there is only so much power to get/give. It can just run at max or something less. Having to charge two low batteries just means it will be maxed-out..or at a higher rate longer...and having to also supply power for additional accessories will take from what it has and may take longer to charge them. Of course that's more work for the rectifier and can be a problem for it over time.     

[PunksMoto]

Thanks for the replies guys.  The True kit I've purchased - https://www.trueam.com/product/true-utv-sbi-15cm-isolator-with-connect-and-monitor-kit/

It DOES NOT apply a charge both batteries at the same time.  It charges the primary battery until it achieves a predetermined voltage and then the isolator applies the charge to the secondary battery.  It seems to me that the charge load (amps) from the stator will not be increased but the charge duration of the stator may be increased.  To me, this seems not any different than adding a bunch of energy hungry accessories (high wattage sound bar, light bar) to the primary battery.  The stator will have to work more/longer to keep the battery charged due to these accessories, just as it would to charge a second battery. 

[NMKawierider]

To me, I see a battery is a storage device...like.. a bucket of water...one with a restricted garden hose filling at the top and a much larger valve at the bottom to tap it's stored energy when needed. As long as you don't take out more then you are filling it, your fine. But use something like the winch that uses far more then the hose is fulling and you can drain the battery/bucket pretty fast...fast and far enough so there isn't enough left to run the engine. Adding a second bucket increases the storage volume..yes, but that same pitiful garden hose is now filling both buckets/batteries. It now takes longer to drain because of the extra volume...and of course.. longer to fill as well. Having a device that regulates the fill rate of each bucket and keep the one used to start the machine from being drained or depleted is probably a good idea...and necessary.

[Sockman]

I always wanted to use that extra battery compartment for one of these.

https://www.fullmetalfabworks.com/2011-2014-rzr-900-air-compressor

Little too spendy, though.

[NMKawierider]

I always wanted to use that extra battery compartment for one of these.

https://www.fullmetalfabworks.com/2011-2014-rzr-900-air-compressor

Little too spendy, though.

Neat idea.

[nightstalkerusmc]

How did your install go?  I did mine a few weeks ago, mounted the battery isolator behind the seat, and put an accessory fuse block wired to the 2nd battery under the hood.

[glenlivet]

They just said the system wasn't designed to handle charging 2 batteries, and, depending on the load, you could burn out the stator. I was running 2 batteries without an isolator.

I rolled my eyes. Further evidence that a dealer or salesperson is one of the worst sources of technical advice about an ORV.
The stator is working at full capacity all the time that the motor is running, it can't do anything else. Whatever of its output is not used in recharging a battery or batteries and operating whatever else you have on (ignition, fuel pump, lights, stereo), is dissipated as heat from the regulator fins.
If load is greater than the capacity of the stator then output voltage will go down, in proportion.

So what do those dealership dodo's think is harder on the stator than full capacity output, that thing it's made to do?
 

[glenlivet]

I took a shortcut on the subject of a spare battery. I just started carrying one of those lithium jump start batteries that weigh about a 10th that of a regular AGM and I have the emergency reserve 12 volt power source to keep worries away and since it isn't a permanent install I can even use it to jump someone else's rig if I felt so inclined.
For the original poster's situation, If it were me I wouldn't install a dedicated additional battery to operate sound bar and lights because if the total draw by the stuff you're running exceeds the output of the charging system then the storage batteries will be gradually going dead whether there's one battery or two. The second battery just delays the inevitable. If the output is sufficient however, then there's no problem anyway.

If the concern is operating the sound bar while at a stop and the motor shut off, and the worry is when you want to leave finding the battery too depleted to start the machine, then the lithium pack comes into play.
That said, I can appreciate the security in having a charged up extra conventional battery on board.

[TUK101]

Man, people have been doing this in cars and trucks for many, many years.  The point is, with running extra accessories we need more storage.  Using an battery isolator to keep your starting battery separate from the light bar and stereo, etc is a smart move.  We do this same thing with our boats as well as campers etc.  Add a separate onboard charger as well so that when you get back home or camp you can charge your accessories battery back up to peak charge.  I will be doing just that to keep from networking the one 30ah battery on my zforce.