[John H]

If you are getting proper voltage out out of the stator, the problem is going to be the regulator, a bad connection/ground or a broken wire.

Sorry you went through the cost and aggravation of replacing the stator.

I added a ground from the battery to the rectifier/regulator, just in case I had a bad ground.  No help.  I also checked the main grounds are tight.  All the primary red wires have continuity, even when being moved around. It was sort of funny.  I had my wife help.  I pulled the red wire totally off and had her hold 1 end with the multimeter lead. I held the other to be sure we were both getting good contact.  she was so worried she was going to get shocked.  I kept telling her it's not hooked up to any current.  HA. at least I got a laugh out of this mess at some point.

[doug80638]

Ha!  Don't let her hold the spark plug lead ;-)

Looks like you are down to the regulator.

[John H]

Ha!  Don't let her hold the spark plug lead ;-)

Looks like you are down to the regulator.

do you think the 2 different regulators would have different internal circuitry?  I went to a dealer yesterday and they had (4) 2022 trail 500's on the floor all with eps.  I climbed under and took a pic of the regulator, all had  the part number ending in 10000.  i talked to their service advisor  about the difference between the 2 models one ending in 10000 and the other ending in 20000 and they had absolutely no clue, but they did tell me if I took it there and they decided I needed a VR, they would put the correct part number on it, just in case it was different.

[doug80638]

Regulators are simple devices, but I'm sure they all use different components in a similar design to accomplish the same goal. Some have better safeguard circuitry than others which protect from over-voltage to prevent frying expensive electronics, like ECUs and displays.

Even if they have different capacities, they all take AC current at varying voltages (and low amperage) and  convert it to 14 volts.  That's a long winded way of saying that, as long as the wiring is correct where connected,  most any regulator should produce 14 volts.

I suspect the second regulated you used is not functioning.

[John H]

Regulators are simple devices, but I'm sure they all use different components in a similar design to accomplish the same goal. Some have better safeguard circuitry than others which protect from over-voltage to prevent frying expensive electronics, like ECUs and displays.

Even if they have different capacities, they all take AC current at varying voltages (and low amperage) and  convert it to 14 volts.  That's a long winded way of saying that, as long as the wiring is correct where connected,  most any regulator should produce 14 volts.

I suspect the second regulated you used is not functioning. I suspect the same thing.  I'm hoping so anyway.  Just waiting on a "better" one form RMStator. Could be her today or more likely tomorrow.   I  appreciate all the feedback I'm getting from you guys. 
John

[John H]

Sad update.
The RMStator regulator came in form Fedex today.  It's physically the wrong size.  The plugs are correct though so I bolted it up to one bolt hole and started the buggy.  Got an increase of .2 volts.  still only charging at 12.55v at the battery and 12.3 at the dash.  it was enough of an increase or more stable so that he front led halo lights that you can't shut off are now solid and not flickering. turn on head lights and voltage drops to 12.    I'm going to button it all up and take it to the dealer. The closest dealer said they can't even look at it for 3 weeks  the next closest dealer 1.5 hours away said they can do diagnostic next week. I'm done.  I give up.  I want this thing back this summer so it's going in. 

I'm going to open an Ice cold beer and sulk. 

John

[NMKawierider]

You gave it your all...that's all anyone can do. Can't use it anyway...might as well enjoy a few cold ones and let someone else have the headache for a while..

[John H]

Update: the dealer seems to think the starter is drawing way too many amps and is pulling the rest of the system down  they said they pulled the cover and the gears inside are severely worn.  They want to put in a starter, double gear and single gear.  waiting on parts of course, could be a few weeks to get.  I don't believe that will fix the issue but I'm optimistic. the starter should be pulling no current after key return, unless it's not turning off. all I can do is wait. maybe I'll get it back for the fall riding before the trails close.

John

[NMKawierider]

Right...why doesn't it charge back up after starting and why isn't it charging at over 14 volts like it should. Starter has nothing to do with that...but maybe they will find something in their travels through your wallet..sorry..I'm a little sore after paying my Ford service department $1,440.00 to install a 300-dollar sensor in the DEF tank. Grrr.. 

[doug80638]

OMG you are having the worst luck! Worn starter gears?

Did they link the starter to the lack of charging voltage from the regulator?

Checking the draw is a simple matter with a clamp amp meter.

[John H]

Right...why doesn't it charge back up after starting and why isn't it charging at over 14 volts like it should. Starter has nothing to do with that...but maybe they will find something in their travels through your wallet..sorry..I'm a little sore after paying my Ford service department $1,440.00 to install a 300-dollar sensor in the DEF tank. Grrr..

I totally agree.  it's possibly an issue they found that I was going to have but I don't think it's going to fix the current issue.

[John H]

OMG you are having the worst luck! Worn starter gears?

Did they link the starter to the lack of charging voltage from the regulator?

Checking the draw is a simple matter with a clamp amp meter.

YES, That is what they are claiming. but I don't buy it.  once the key is returned to the run position, the starter should not be drawing any amperage. thus the system should not have additional load from the starter.  Now Get this bad luck scenario.  I just got an email from RM Stator. Remember, I bought a new regulator from them and they said on the phone that the only internal difference is a shunt type regulator vs a Mosfet type but they all do the same thing.  The Mosfet is just more efficient.  Their regulator I received from them was physically too small but it did have the correct connectors, so I mounted 1 bolt and plugged it in.  it made little difference although it made my headlights more stable and not flicker still only got 12.5 volts at the battery.  I sent it back to them and htey tested it and just told me by email their regulator was actually defective. so Now I Have 3 defective regulators?  2 brand new ones?  I brought this thing to the dealer and am paying big money and now find out I had a 3rd defective regulator?   I wonder if some issues is burning them out??

[doug80638]

Not unheard of for any electrical component.  Perhaps they should test them BEFORE they send them out ;-)

The starter draws against the battery, not the regulator, and the solenoid breaks the connection to it unless it too is compromised. It's easily checked with a meter.

So long as the battery (or the harness) doesn't have any shorts, a known good regulator should be fine.

I can't wait to hear the conclusion to this nightmare.

[NMKawierider]

I can't wait to hear the conclusion to this nightmare.

Me too. Been through every part of this system to no avail. Probably something really simple...or something that just never happens...except on a CFM..lol.  However from what we've heard from this shop so far, I think they the type that just throws parts at something..at the owner's expense.. until fixed. Love to be wrong though.

[NMKawierider]

You know...in all my years the only time I ever found warn starter drive gears is when one had not been disengaging and had not spun itself into parts because of the running over about 2500 RPMs. They just are not used enough to wear...break teeth because of kick-back, yes, but not warn. They only stay engaged for two reasons normally. One- the oneway won't release for some reason..but it most be here because it hasn't destroyed the starter and drive gears.. and two-the solenoid stays engaged (which would be a high draw on the system)...and that can happen because of a couple of reasons- one..and it happens more often then any other, the amp load across the contacts exceeds it's limits, heats, starts arcing and partly welds the contacts.. or two- the coil stay energized because of a bad key switch or a harness problem. I would say that if they are changing the starter and drive gears out, then I would also want the solenoid and key switch at least tested if not also replaced.  Just thinking out loud here.