[doug80638]

I modified the post. Please re-read about the part numbers.

I could not find a cheap version of the 2020 Z8 version and don't know what the difference is between old and new.
Buy with caution.

You can push a pin into the insulation and reseal, or slide a pin done into the connector. I've never done this on my Z8, so can't advise, But I generally try to slide a pin into the connector until it makes contact.

All this assumes you don't have a warranty.

[NMKawierider]

All this assumes you don't have a warranty.

Yeah if you have a warranty..take it in!

[John H]

I modified the post. Please re-read about the part numbers.

I could not find a cheap version of the 2020 Z8 version and don't know what the difference is between old and new.
Buy with caution.

You can push a pin into the insulation and reseal, or slide a pin done into the connector. I've never done this on my Z8, so can't advise, But I generally try to slide a pin into the connector until it makes contact.

All this assumes you don't have a warranty.

No Warranty.  Purchased used with 1100 Miles on it. I actually found the 17700-1000 for about $16, supposed to be new. worth a shot for sure at that price.   Not user what the difference is between the 2000 and the 1000 but both are higher power for the EPS units. the one I have on t here is a different model # all together.  FH029AA.  I wonder if the Previous owner knew of this issue and changed this out and either did not fix the issue or or is not the proper unit.  I really appreciate all the help and suggestions from both of you. BTW, I did try a different battery to see if it would charge at a higher rate and rule out the battery that tested both good and bad but the other battery from my Yamaha Grizz had no change at all in the condition. 

[John H]

Update:
I was finally able to do some of the testing that has been discussed.  Started by making sure the battery was fully charged. I added a heavy GA wire from the negative batt terminal to the mounting bolt on the rectifier/regulator.  No change. still charging at 12.55 volts on the Multi meter.  The screen on the dash said 12.3 volts.  I ran the buggy up to 5k in neutral and the screen on the dash stayed at 12.3 volts.  After that, I pierced the red wire coming out of the voltage regulator with a large sewing needle. I made sure the needle had good contact with the copper.  I started the buggy and used the multimeter red to red and black tot he battery neg terminal.  12.55 volts. SO now I know I'm not losing anything going through the 30AMP fuse going back to the battery from the regulator I get the same reading at the battery.  I changed the rectifier/regulator.  Checked it again at the battery, 12.55 volts. the dash said 12.3 volts.  Seems like the next step is to replace the Stator.  Just wanted to give you guys more Info to see if you agree that it's time for a stator.  Thoughts? 
Anyone out there replace a Stator in a 800 EX yet? looking for any heads up info on how the work went for you if you have done it or know someone who has.

Thanks
John

[NMKawierider]

I forget what your stator test reading were but it looks like that's the next thing.

[John H]

I forget what your stator test reading were but it looks like that's the next thing.

readings were just barely in Spec.  right at the 200 Volt min when adding up all 3 legs.  Ohm test was good.  .8 Spec was .5-1.5.

[doug80638]

Did you bench test the regulator?
Swap in a known good regulator?

[John H]

Did you bench test the regulator?
Swap in a known good regulator?

yes.  I bench tested my current regulator.  and it tested ok.  I also swapped with a new one and get the same charging values.  I don't believe the regulator to be the issue.

[doug80638]

If the regulator bench tests OK, and the stator bench tests OK, then what's left is a bad/broken connection someplace.

Is the regulator getting a proper voltage signal from the battery?

[NMKawierider]

Is the regulator getting a proper voltage signal from the battery?

Good point. Hadn't thought of that.

[John H]

If the regulator bench tests OK, and the stator bench tests OK, then what's left is a bad/broken connection someplace.

Is the regulator getting a proper voltage signal from the battery?

I'm not sure how to test that signal from the battery to the regulator.  I Pierced the wire from the regulator, just after the connector before it goes through the fuse back to the battery.  AL I get out of the regulator is 12.55 volts. that is with the old regulator and the new one. I measure that at the battery as well. I have tested using 2 different batteries and 2 regulators. IF I turn on the headlights the batt voltage drops to 11.9 or 12v  I'm thinking the Stator is just not putting out enough.  it's DC output does not increase from idol to 5K RPM. It's AC output changes significantly.  Idol is around 27v per leg.  5k RPM is 66 volts per leg.  I did use the Rectifier part number for the 2019 and earlier z8: 0800-177000-10000 which matches the part number for the 2020 U8, however mine actually calls for  0800-177000-20000.  the connectors were identical. I don't know if the 20000 part number does something different, but size, fin number and connectors were all the same.

[John H]

If the regulator bench tests OK, and the stator bench tests OK, then what's left is a bad/broken connection someplace.

Is the regulator getting a proper voltage signal from the battery?

I'm not sure how to test that signal from the battery to the regulator.  I Pierced the wire from the regulator, just after the connector before it goes through the fuse back to the battery.  AL I get out of the regulator is 12.55 volts. that is with the old regulator and the new one. I measure that at the battery as well. I have tested using 2 different batteries and 2 regulators. IF I turn on the headlights the batt voltage drops to 11.9 or 12v  I'm thinking the Stator is just not putting out enough.  it's DC output does not increase from idol to 5K RPM. It's AC output changes significantly.  Idol is around 27v per leg.  5k RPM is 66 volts per leg.  I did use the Rectifier part number for the 2019 and earlier z8: 0800-177000-10000 which matches the part number for the 2020 U8, however mine actually calls for  0800-177000-20000.  the connectors were identical. I don't know if the 20000 part number does something different, but size, fin number and connectors were all the same.

in the wiring diagram I have, there is no signal wire from the regulator.  it only has 2 wires coming out of the regulator, positive going to the main fuse and then to the battery and Neg.  Only 3 wires entering the Rectifier.

[NMKawierider]

The wire to the main fuse is the signal wire. Also..interesting that they rout it to the main fuse where so many have has problem fuse holders. Internal crimps are failing. Can you bypass that and test run it straight to the battery?..just for giggles.

[John H]

The wire to the main fuse is the signal wire. Also..interesting that they rout it to the main fuse where so many have has problem fuse holders. Internal crimps are failing. Can you bypass that and test run it straight to the battery?..just for giggles.

can you give me some suggestions how best to bypass and still get power tot he rest of the buggy so it can crank and run?   I took voltage readings right out of the regulator wire before going to the battery.  Are you thinking the regulator is getting a bad signal from the battery through the fuse wire and limiting the voltage back through the system and that's why I am only getting 12.5 volts at the regulator?

[NMKawierider]

Sorry...never mind. There's only so many things it might be and you have eliminated all of them I know of- battery, rectifier, stator, connections, harness.. so...I'm out of suggestions.