[John H]

Hi All.
first time I was able to get my new to me buggy on the trail over the weekend.  always starts right up even after sitting for a couple weeks at a time.  I did notice the LED lights on hte headlights flicker at low RPM and the dash light that shows the lights being on is not bright or steady until I get to higher RPM.  Did not think much abou it until this weekend.  I was riding the trails for about 25 miles and came to an intersection I slowed down from 45 to close to a stop.  tried to hit the gas again and it hesitated and popped a few times.  I let off on the gas and it cleared up, but never quit running. did not have that issue any more during the day  I ran around for about 40-50 miles and I turned the buggy off 2 times.  each time it re-started just fine.  Stopped for gas another time it it would not start, just clicked the solenoid..  Luckily someone had a battery booster. started right up so I went directly to the trailer. I was backing it onto the trailer and it quit on me. I was not able to start it.  Again, luckily someone else was around and they helped my push it onto t he trailer.  I went back tot he cabin and tested the battery.  11.6 Volts.  I charged it over night and got it back 13.4 volts.  I brought it in to Orielly Auto and asked for a load test.  they said it passed 2 of 3 load tests.  I have had them tell me before a battery was good and Fleet farm show me it was bad when they used their actual large machine to load test it, not the hand held.  I put the battery back in and of course with hat voltage it started right up.  I put a meter on it when running and it was charging but at only 12.55 volts.  it was pretty constant though very steady, so I'm assuming the rectifier is good. Voltage was not bouncing around.  Turn off the buggy and the voltage is 13+ start it back up and it's 12.55 again.  fan kicks on while running and the voltage actually increases by .2 volts at the battery and the LED lights and the light on the dash is solid, but only with the cooling fan running.  Anyone have any ideas? 

Thanks for reading.   I know it's long but wanted to give as much info as possible.

John

[NMKawierider]

To me it sounds like there are two possible things wrong. One, yes, the battery may well be gone and if it's not been tendered and is over three years old, get a new one. The other thing is with the charging rate. If that doesn't improve with a new battery to over 14 volts, then it's likely the stator has failed. Some simple tests are outlined in the service manual to find out. Otherwise check all connections on all cables and wires to the battery. Also test the main fuse holder as there have been bad internal crimps found. If the stator shows all good, look to the rectifier/regulator. I do not have a service manual for the 2020s.

[doug80638]

If the battery rebounds to over 13V after a draw, then it's fine. Even a draw rate of 12.5 is a good indicator. All 6 cells are doing their job. The only valid battery test that I know of is a load test; it can either maintain a load or not.

A charging rate of 12.5V tells me the charging system is barely working, or isn't working at all, and you are running on battery.

Check all the connections at the regulator, clean them up if necessary, reseat, and check the charging rate again. If it's not above 13.5, Ohm out the stator coils and the regulator. Lots of youtube videos on how to do that.

[John H]

To me it sounds like there are two possible things wrong. One, yes, the battery may well be gone and if it's not been tendered and is over three years old, get a new one. The other thing is with the charging rate. If that doesn't improve with a new battery to over 14 volts, then it's likely the stator has failed. Some simple tests are outlined in the service manual to find out. Otherwise check all connections on all cables and wires to the battery. Also test the main fuse holder as there have been bad internal crimps found. If the stator shows all good, look to the rectifier/regulator. I do not have a service manual for the 2020s.

can you please elaborate on the internal crimp issue at the main fuse box? are you talking about the one under the front cover/box or the 2 main fuses under the drivers seat?
Also if the rectifier was bad wouldn't that give bouncing voltage numbers?  I get very steady voltage at the battery. it also does not change more than .2 v when I turn on the 2 small Led Spot lights, whip lights and the full headlights.  I don't know the history of the battery.  I bought the buggy at the end of March. is the stator tough to get to?  I have tested and replaced the stator in a boat motor before. I'll start with the battery test. $140 battery would be the easy fix. do you know where a good place to buy the manual for the 2000 ex is.  I will need it to get the stator values.

[John H]

If the battery rebounds to over 13V after a draw, then it's fine. Even a draw rate of 12.5 is a good indicator. All 6 cells are doing their job. The only valid battery test that I know of is a load test; it can either maintain a load or not.

A charging rate of 12.5V tells me the charging system is barely working, or isn't working at all, and you are running on battery.

Check all the connections at the regulator, clean them up if necessary, reseat, and check the charging rate again. If it's not above 13.5, Ohm out the stator coils and the regulator. Lots of youtube videos on how to do that.

thanks for providing some things to look at. I'll need to get the manual to find the values.

[NMKawierider]

To me it sounds like there are two possible things wrong. One, yes, the battery may well be gone and if it's not been tendered and is over three years old, get a new one. The other thing is with the charging rate. If that doesn't improve with a new battery to over 14 volts, then it's likely the stator has failed. Some simple tests are outlined in the service manual to find out. Otherwise check all connections on all cables and wires to the battery. Also test the main fuse holder as there have been bad internal crimps found. If the stator shows all good, look to the rectifier/regulator. I do not have a service manual for the 2020s.

can you please elaborate on the internal crimp issue at the main fuse box? are you talking about the one under the front cover/box or the 2 main fuses under the drivers seat?
Also if the rectifier was bad wouldn't that give bouncing voltage numbers?  I get very steady voltage at the battery. it also does not change more than .2 v when I turn on the 2 small Led Spot lights, whip lights and the full headlights.  I don't know the history of the battery.  I bought the buggy at the end of March. is the stator tough to get to?  I have tested and replaced the stator in a boat motor before. I'll start with the battery test. $140 battery would be the easy fix. do you know where a good place to buy the manual for the 2000 ex is.  I will need it to get the stator values.

Main fuse under the driver's seat-rear compartment. Manual from your dealer...although the stator values would probably be the same as previous years...and in that case I do have one. I'll PM you a link.

[John H]

Update.  I took the battery to the local Fleet Farm.  They have done a good job in the past running actual diagnostics on the battery.  They first ran a check for general health.  it came back with low voltage and low CCA's they pronounced it junk.  I got a new battery in the cart.  but also had other shopping to do.  While walking around the store thinking about this $149 battery, I decided it's impossible to be that bad. I went back and asked them to check it again.  Came back the same way.  this time with no CCA's. I asked if they had other ways to check it.  they said they would run a diagnostic on it.  That came back showing fully charged, 520 CCa's (its a 400 CCA battery) 100% health.  SO I put the other battery back on the shelf.  I decided to hook it up to my riding mower with a 25 HP Briggs motor.  I checked the voltage before hooking it up and it was at 12.98 V hooked it up and read voltage no change.  Got a helper to hold the meter probes and cranked the starter.  the meter dropped to 11.74 V under load and rebounded immediately when the motor was running. the lawn mower was charging the battery very high well over 16 V so I know the battery can get charge.  Now I'm assuming the battery is good and I need to start looking into the other items you guys discussed.  The issue is the buggy is 2 hours away and I'm not going tot he cabin for about 1 month.  I should have dragged it home after the weekend.

John

[doug80638]

That's very strange! The same battery showing different results on the same bench?

It makes me wonder if there was a weak/faulty connection either between the bench test machine and the battery post (my guess), or the battery post and the battery internals (less likely, but possible).

I'd bring it to another battery test facility for a second load test.

[John H]

To me it sounds like there are two possible things wrong. One, yes, the battery may well be gone and if it's not been tendered and is over three years old, get a new one. The other thing is with the charging rate. If that doesn't improve with a new battery to over 14 volts, then it's likely the stator has failed. Some simple tests are outlined in the service manual to find out. Otherwise check all connections on all cables and wires to the battery. Also test the main fuse holder as there have been bad internal crimps found. If the stator shows all good, look to the rectifier/regulator. I do not have a service manual for the 2020s.

I have not been able to check the machine but I was thinking about the parts you mentioned.  I can find pricing in the $350 range for each item but they are not available.  Does anyone have an aftermarket source for the regulator and Stator?

John

[doug80638]

That's why it's important to test each component first!  Parts swapping can get expensive fast!

I like to use MortchMotor out of China, but they don't always have the parts I need when I need them.

[John H]

That's why it's important to test each component first!  Parts swapping can get expensive fast!

I like to use MortchMotor out of China, but they don't always have the parts I need when I need them.

Great point.  I don't intend to purchase before testing.  Throwing parts at an issue rarely fixes it the first time.  Was just looking for price and availability.  I found MortchMotor, long lead times and I was wondering if they really get it here within the 3 weeks they say or does it sit in a container for 6 months?  I'm wondering if I can buy the Stator for the C8 and extend the wire harness seems to use the same diameter parts and mounting holes but has a much shorter cable.  Anyway, I won't buy until I check components.  I was not planning on being near the buggy until July 1 but now I'm thinking of taking a day off work just to drive up and test, since parts are so long to get, I'm hoping I don't need to waste the whole summer of riding the trails.

Thanks for the supplier info
John

[NMKawierider]

It's also possible that if it is the stator a company like RMStator or Ricks motorsport electrics can rebuild it...and make it even better...or may even have one in stock. Worth contacting them to see.

Some links:

https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.php

https://rmstator.com/en_ca/

[doug80638]

MortchMotor ships direct. I usually get my order between 3 and 4 days (DHL) from China.

The prices are good, but shipping is high. Still, I've found the total cost and delivery time much less than ordering from the states.

[John H]

Update: Ran to the cabin to check the stator. It ohms out in Spec. its .8 on all legs static Spec is .5-1.5
Did the dynamic test  Spec is 200V AC at 5000 RPM.
I get 18V at 1400 RPM 32v at 2500 RPM and 66 v at 5000 RPM  way off 200V but here is the odd thing.  I looked up the spec for a Polaris General they are as follows
1300 RPM  21v, 3000 rpm 47v,  5000 rpm 79V all +/- 25%     how is CFMOTO supposed to be 200V?
according to that 200V spec I'm way low. 

[NMKawierider]

I think..not 100% sure..but I think to get that 200 volt number they combine the readings of all three phases. If that's the case then the average phase output would be about 66.66 volts...which would be about for an average. You may want is to find a phase very low of the three. And being a three-phase A/C generator, you may want to take the readings combining each phase, not each phase to ground. Of course testing each phase to ground would make it easier to ID a bad set of coils...if any.