[Mook714]

Having issue with 2017 Z-Force 800 Trail.  I thought I would inquire here before it went to the dealership.  Machine has 115 miles on it.  Went for a quick ride, ran fine.  Stopped for about an hour.  When I went to start machine, it seemed to have a hard time staying running.  I did hear a bunch of clicking in the front hood area.  Finally got the machine to run, drove back and the machine did not have any power.  Seemed like it was in some sort of limp mode - maybe only one cylinder running.  Took a look at it the next day, starts fine full power after about ten seconds it goes into a limp mode.  Any thoughts??  I did try seatbelt – no change.  No vapor lock in tank.  The relays seem very difficult to get to.  They appear to be above the glove box – which entails removing quite a bit to get to.  Also no faults are present on dash.
 Thanks in advanced, this forum is invaluable.

[doug80638]

You can remove the hood, and the box under the hood, to get to the relays. Removing the fender gives additional access.

2017 with only 115 miles on it? That's a lot of down time. How old is the fuel? I would check fuel pressure and injector performance first considering such few miles over such a long period of time.

Without any indication from the ECU that something is amiss, it sounds like time to start with the basics, clean the T-map sensor, check fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs, compression tests, valve lash, ; that kind of thing. Also worth while to inspect the electrical connections.

[NMKawierider]

Having issue with 2017 Z-Force 800 Trail.  I thought I would inquire here before it went to the dealership.  Machine has 115 miles on it.  Went for a quick ride, ran fine.  Stopped for about an hour.  When I went to start machine, it seemed to have a hard time staying running.  I did hear a bunch of clicking in the front hood area.  Finally got the machine to run, drove back and the machine did not have any power.  Seemed like it was in some sort of limp mode - maybe only one cylinder running.  Took a look at it the next day, starts fine full power after about ten seconds it goes into a limp mode.  Any thoughts??  I did try seatbelt – no change.  No vapor lock in tank.  The relays seem very difficult to get to.  They appear to be above the glove box – which entails removing quite a bit to get to.  Also no faults are present on dash.
 Thanks in advanced, this forum is invaluable.

Because you said you heard clicking under the front hood area that usually comes from relays with intermittent power turning them on and off...but there should be a flashing MIL light as the EFI system would have low power however I would still say you have a power supply problem and as it is a 2017, and many had bad main fuse holders, I would look there first. It won't be the fuse but the holder itself. They has some with bad internal crimp connections. Just test it while it running and acting up..both power in and out of the fuse. If there is a difference, replace the fuse holder and fuse. If not, look to all the other places where there could be a bad connection...start with the battery and all it's cables. Also check the distribution fuse box under the dash clipped on the right side of the steering column support bracket. 

[doug80638]

You make a good point. If this machine has been sitting around for as long as it appears (not enough miles to get through the first tank of gas), I'm left wondering if the battery, left idle for so long, is up to snuff, and that low voltage might make the relays dance and make the engine run poorly.

[BudgetBoyOffroad]

I'm going through the same thing. After removing the cover in the "bed" I had access to the top of the engine. With the vehicle running I felt the cylinder wall and noticed was not getting hot. Turns out I fouled out a plug. changed it and all was well again, sort of... Then I noticed that the little glass fuse near the battery was all messed up, just wiggling it caused the Z8 to run screwy, I replaced that.
I still have a problem where it just shuts down when I put it in reverse and tap the gas. It doesn't happen every time I drive, but it happens enough to drive me crazy. I think I have the corrosion problem on my ECU, that I hear so much about. Hopefully that's the final gremlin for me.
I hope some of my problems help you find yours. Please tell let us know what ends up being the culprit.

[NMKawierider]

I still have a problem where it just shuts down when I put it in reverse and tap the gas. It doesn't happen every time I drive, but it happens enough to drive me crazy. I think I have the corrosion problem on my ECU, that I hear so much about. Hopefully that's the final gremlin for me.
I hope some of my problems help you find yours. Please tell let us know what ends up being the culprit.

Clean the air temp sensor with mass air flow sensor cleaner. When mine does that exact same thing it's covered with oil from my air filter. After pulling it and cleaning it the problem stops until it gets coated again. Now that I roll-up a paper towel inside the Unifilter after oiling it to suck-up the excess, it hasn't happed in several years now.

[Mook714]

So I tried all your suggestions, aside from checking relays.  I did pull the mass air flow sensor - wasn't bad at all I did clean though.  One thing I haven't done was check spark plug which I will try tonight.  Having tried to take spark plugs off my cf moto 500, unfortunately not an easy task.  One would think it would be a regular spark plug socket....

BTW with my low mileage - new battery last year, and drained fuel every year replace with new.

Thank you again for all your suggestions - was planning on bring to dealership on Friday.

[Mook714]

So I replaced the plugs and the machine is now running correctly - thank you.  One spark plug was a lot worse than the other?  Now, I am showing engine fault of P0113 - IAT Circuit High Voltage or Open.  Machine is running fine, but not sure why the error.  A google shows the following:

Because a P0113 code is most frequently caused by either a dysfunctional circuit or a failed IAT sensor, the most common repair is simply replacing the faulty component. You can also try cleaning the IAT sensor tip and replacing the grounds.

Replacement IAT sensors are not usually very expensive, so replacing one is not a costly repair. Furthermore, a P0113 error may very rarely indicate a problem with the PCM. After you’ve fixed the IAT, clear the error codes and run the vehicle. If the P0113 code reappears, that could indicate a faulty PCM.
So IAT sensor is the same as the T-MAP sensor?

Thanks in advanced...

[doug80638]

They are very different.

One determines the the characteristics of the air coming into the throttle body by means of measuring resistance across a  filament being cooled by the air flow, and the other essentially is an ECU controlled vacuum leak to stabilize/balance idle performance.

I'm especially concerned about the condition of the plugs. Can you post a picture of them here?

Edit: I removed the comment about warranty given the machine is 3 years old.

[NMKawierider]

Yes, P0113 is the air Temp sensor. The one that is on top of the intake just after the TB. Check for bad/shorted connection. If it was cleaned with anything other then Mass Airflow sensor cleaner, it is destroyed and will have to be replaced.

This is from the manual.

[Mook714]

The error codes have cleared, and the machine is running perfectly now. Weird.

[doug80638]

You have one plug that looks carbon fouled. I would be concerned with the fuel injector on that cylinder.

I would do a compression check and test the ignition wires/connections on that cylinder. Maybe use a little seafoam in the fuel to help clean the deposits.

If that cylinder doesn't foul again, assume a bad connection of the plug wire to the plug or a faulty plug.

If that cylinder fouls again (a strong possibility), I would swap the fuel injectors around and see if the fouling follows the injector.  If it does, replace the injector. If it doesn't, than additional diagnostics are in order.