[Combs35]

Hello to everyone here
A friend of mine brought me over his 800 ex to see if I can get it running for him
I've worked on racecars and diesel engines for about 40 years
Now,on to his 800
It's a 2017 zforce 800 ex with 167 miles on it
He said that it's been sitting for almost a year inside his heated garage
His son crashed it and he's just now gotten the body parts and steering components put back on it
It won't start
Engine cranks over fine
Fuel pump never kicks on and it has no spark to the plugs
It has a brand new battery in it and I have checked all the fuses I could find
Also checked for voltage drop when cranking the engine and that seems to be ok
Any suggestions on what or where to go to next would be greatly appreciated

[doug80638]

Was it running after the accident?

So many potential causes - including damaged wiring from the accident or rodent damaged from sitting for so long.

First effort should be to restore the fuel pump. It should energize with ignition on and is audible.

Since the engine cranks, but the pump does not, the safety lockouts don't seem to be involved. I would suggest checking three things.

First, that all connections at the battery are clean and tight, that all grounds are clean and tight, and that all fuses are good and make solid contact in their holder.

Second is the relay to the fuel pump. Voltage to the relay? Voltage to the trigger upon ignition? Voltage out on trigger?

The third is the continuity of the kill switch. This switch breaks continuity to two circuits;  the starter relay and the fuel pump relay.  I have found this switch untrustworthy in the past. When in the run position, it can pass signal to one circuit and not the other, or no signal to either. Disconnect the harness from the switch and test the switch for continuity for both circuits. Check the harness for voltage in. Bypass the switch by jumping the harness and test.

Do you have the wiring diagram for this machine?

[NMKawierider]

Yeah work the kill switch a few times then try it. They are the #1 reason for this behavior.

[glenlivet]

These are good advices. The point that it lacks both fuel pump and spark leads me to suspect an ECU issue. Since it has sat for so long maybe try disconnecting the big ECU connector and whatever other connectors you can find, and reconnect them. Just disturbing the contact points can restore a bad path of conductivity.

[doug80638]

If I read the wiring diagram correctly ...

Power runs from the ignition switch (R -> B) to the fuse box providing power to the fuel pump via L/R.

L/R goes to the kill switch and is connected to GR/L, which goes to the ECU pin 15 and several engine management components (injectors, coils, O2 sensors, etc).

The kill switch breaks the connection from L/R to GR/L and so would affect all of those engine management components, not just the fuel pump.

If GR/L (pin 15) is not energized, the ECU will not energize the fuel pump relay via pin 9 (L/Y).

[Combs35]

First off, I'd like to thank you guys for the quick replies
So, I asked today and was told that it has never ran again after being crashed
All the wiring seems to be in good shape as I have taken off the seats and alot of the body panels so I could get to everything easily
I have checked all the fuse sockets
Have unplugged and plugged back in numerous times the fuses,relays,and ECM
Have cleaned all battery connections really good
Brand New battery

Doug80638,could you please tell me a little bit more about voltage to trigger upon ignition and voltage out on trigger?
Are you referring to voltage at fuel pump relay?
And by kill switch,are you meaning the ignition switch?
I checked ignition switch and if I remember correctly it has a hot going to it and three other wires
Two of those wires get hot when ignition is turned on and the other gets hot when cranking the engine which is what I was expecting if the ignition was good
Please correct me if that's not how it's supposed to be
I don't have the wiring diagram for this unit but I was looking at it last night from somewhere I had found it on the internet

NMKawierider, I am going out to garage now to plug and unplug anything and everything that I can find on this thing AGAIN and see if that helps

Doug80638,after carefully reading and rereading your replies answers one of my questions for me,kill switch is not ignition switch
Now,could you please point me in the general location of where I can find the kill switch?
Going to check in a couple minutes to see if pin 15 is energized on the ECM

Once again,thank you guys for trying to help a newbie like myself out with problems like these
The world would be a whole lot better place if there were more people like you guys
Maybe I can return the favor one day by helping you guys or someone else out with things that I know a little about

[Combs35]

I went out and removed the ECM and took off the cover so I could check for corrosion
Connections all look good and clean
Could someone tell me which pins are pin 15 and pin 9

[Combs35]

Heading back out to garage now to check the kill switch out
I'll post back and let you guys know if I figure anything out

[Combs35]

Ok,so I just came back in from the garage and here's what I found
I put the control module back in and started looking at the kill switch
After flipping the switch a few times the engine quit cranking using the ignition switch
As I was unplugging the kill switch so I could do some testing on the wires,the switch itself fell apart and pieces of it fell out in my hand
Tomorrow I will get a new switch ordered and I'll post back on here as soon as I get it in and try it out and let you guys know if that fixes this thing

[doug80638]

I should have mentioned, there are two plugs on the ECU, J1 and J2, and both have 18 pins.
GR/L (Gray w/ Blue stripe)   is J2 pin 15.
L/Y   (Blue w/ Yellow stripe) is J2 pin 9.

You can find the correct ECU pins by the wire color code.

You can bypass the kill/stop switch by adding jumpers to the switch harness connector.

The stop switch simply puts or removes power from L/R (Blue with red stripe)  to GR/L (Gray w/ Blue stripe) and GR/G (Gray w/ Green stripe). L/R has power when ignition switch is on.

The jumpers will put power to pin 15 (Gr/L) and the affected engine management components.

The ECU grounds L/Y to allow current through the fuel pump relay and to the pump.

[Combs35]

If I'm reading correctly the blue with yellow stripe wire should switch to ground
It does not
When the keyswitch is turned on,it goes hot and stays hot when cranking

[doug80638]

Right. L/Y  is fed by L/R through the fuel pump relay, but the current can't flow unless pin 9 (L/Y) is grounded.

The ECU won't ground pin 9 unless pin 15 (Gr/L) has voltage. Gr/L gets it's voltage from L/R via the kill/stop switch.
 
The question to answer is: Does Gr/L and-or GR/G show voltage?

PM me your email address and I'll send you the wiring diagram.

[Combs35]

109 and 1015 both show voltage when the key and the kill switch are on the run position they never switch they both still show voltage no matter what even when cranking

[Combs35]

Meant to say pin 9 and pin 15 in my last post
Out of curiosity a few minutes ago, I unplugged the fuel pump and ran a hot and ground to the pump itself and it pumps

[Ponytail]

Maybe I missed it. Did you replace the kill switch?