[Eddiej82770]

What's up guys. Newbie here. 60 yr old newbie, lol. Well, I did a thing. I bought a side by side. Never had a side by side before, but I have a few friends that do, in fact the first time I have ever ridden in one was after I bought this one, lol. Man, that has set a fire under me wanting to get this one going, anyway I bought a basket case 2014 Zforce 800ex. Got it for a really good price. Most of it's there as far as I can tell. I have a lot of plastic, the seats, and some random motor parts that the PO took off. He said it doesn't run. I think he tried to fix it and was in over his head. I'll figure out what I have and don't have in the following days. I'm positive some things are missing. Our moderator was gracious enough to provide me with a service manual which has already helped out immensely. Since most of this has already been taken apart, I'm sure I will have many questions going forward about putting it back together that hopefully you guys can help me out with. These are pics of what it looked like when I picked it up. I have it in a friend's shop now, I'll get more pics of its current condition later. Follow along as I try to fix this old girl back up. Any help or advice along the way will be appreciated

[Eddiej82770]

Hmmm, I can't seem to get it to attach the pics. It says that page isn't working right now. I'll try later

[NMKawierider]

Hmmm, I can't seem to get it to attach the pics. It says that page isn't working right now. I'll try later

Might need to have 3 or more posts before it will let you upload pics. In time though there is a limit on how many you can have. I suggest getting a free imgur account, upload your pics there and post the image URLs in your post here...and on any other forum as they are treated like text and won't take up server space like attachments do. You are also welcome to use our Imgur account. Instructions and password are in the How-To section. Good luck on your project.

[Eddiej82770]

Cool, I'll give it a try

[Eddiej82770]

[Eddiej82770]

Ok, so I got it to the shop and straightened it up a little bit. Unloaded and went through the pile of plastic, seats, and misc motor parts. Most of it appears to be there. The hood is missing but I knew that when I bought it. If anyone knows where to source a hood, new or used, it would be greatly appreciated.  The drive side of the engine looks like it was removed for a while and a lot of parts will need replaced on that side. I got the motor pulled today and started breaking it down. The pistons and rings looked OK and the cylinder looked good besides needing a hone. I will measure them all tomorrow to make sure they are in specs. The crank and rod bearings on the other hand are toast. Side to side paly is nominal but pulling straight up and down is clunk, clunk. Way too much play. The residual oil in the crankcase and filter was shiny, but not chunky, so that's good. I ordered a flywheel puller this evening so I can finish tearing it down. Anyway, that's where I'm at today. Any comments?

[NMKawierider]

Probably best to get a complete crank kit and hopefully you can get that case cleaned up. Don't forget to flush and clean the oil cooler too. You can still get everything for these on any CFM part site. There are several listed in the INFO center under "places to get stuff". You might find that hood on ebay.

[Eddiej82770]

All is quiet on the home front as I impatiently await ordered parts and pullers. While I'm at a standstill, l I have a question or two maybe you guys can help me out with. I've been doing some reading online about setting up the clutches for performance/oversize tire use and it's a little confusing, so I'd like to ask your opinions.

Question 1. My existing drive pulleys are anodized. Not necessarily pitted, but not in great condition either. Can the insides of these be sanded and polished? or will I need new ones.

Question 2. If I can sand and polish these, I will rebuild them, If not, can I buy them already modified, or is it more cost effective to purchase stock ones and buy what I need to upgrade them?

Question 3. My primary riding will be hilly, muddy trails. from mostly sea level to maybe 4000ft occasionally and I'm pulling these big beefy 32's.  I've noticed there are many combinations that can be made by adding weights to the wet clutches, larger weights in the variator- I hope I'm calling it right, and the springs and cam modifications in the secondary clutch. I've seen terms called B something, and C something by really don't understand these and can't really wrap my head around the concept because this is my first CVT driven vehicle. I'm sure I'll figure it out with feel eventually, but I need a starting point so hopefully you guys can help me out. I'm not interested in top speed as I don't need that in trails and mud. I feel like I would need more torque for pulling steep hills or deep mudholes, especially with the size tires this has on it. So, wet clutch weights? variator rounds weights, Spring and cam recommendations? Any help is appreciated.

[NMKawierider]

There is a ton of info about these that much you don't need to know...yet...so lets start with the surface conditions. Clean them up with 600g or higher then clean with scotchbrite pads. NO deep scratches. IF there is any flat or areas on the sheaves that have lost their tapper, you will need new.

OK, lets start inside- the wet clutch if burned will need new shoes and if the bell...the part the shoes come against is blued or scared it will need replaced but keep it all stock. Now you should know those 32" tires are clutch-killers...they are too big and heavy for this machine. Might be part of the reason she went down. Never more then 29s on an EX and 27s on a trail is a good rule-of-thumb. Ok coming out to the CVT we will call the clutch that is on the bell-shaft or the crank shaft the drive or primary clutch and the other on the transmission is the driven or secondary clutch. For now we will assume the Primary is OK and usable so inspect the rollers, tracks and the cam late for any wear and flat spots on the rollers. If OK you can use them as is but with those tires...if you insist on using them you will want some additional stall. That means you want the engagement to start a little higher in RPMs and hold throughout the shift-out range so you want lighter...but not too light. The rollers are 25gram each and at your altitude you want a 24 gram. Now come the best part. Dr Pulley makes a slider for these clutches that work better then the rollers. I have 22gram but I operate between 6,000 and 12,000 feet. But you only need the 24 gram sliders. OK, now on to the secondary/driven clutch. These always use the resistance of a spring to match load to torque needs. some just compress a spring and some twist a spring. These twist the spring by anchoring each end in holes and preloading the twist during assembly. When they say B1 or C1 or B2 they mean one end goes in a hole marked with a letter and the other a number. There is some videos in the how-two section on doing this. With up yo 29" tires and your riding I would have said to set yours to C1 but...with those tires you will need B2 for sure. The helix slides on ramps that may be warn and they can be replaced. Polish them and just leave dry or a whisper of graphite...make sure none can get on to the belt though. Put a new Ultimax belt on it, make sure its torqued properly, take the time to grease that bearing on the CVT cover..because everyone forgets it... and good luck.

[Eddiej82770]

Excellent write up. That increased my understanding of the CVT system 10 fold from what I was reading online. Thank you.

I did some research on the Dr Pulley sliders also and that's the way I'm going. I'm definitely keeping the big tires though, lol. They are just too cool looking    . If I have higher maintenance, so be it, lol. So a question on the DR Pulley sliders I will need for this machine. 30x18-24g x 8? I can shave $40 off ordering them by size instead of by machine. And is the stock spring ok to clock or will I need an aftermarket spring?  Because of their pure age and condition, I will be replacing the sliders, ramps, wet clutch, drum, and bearing.

[NMKawierider]

Excellent write up. That increased my understanding of the CVT system 10 fold from what I was reading online. Thank you.

I did some research on the Dr Pulley sliders also and that's the way I'm going. I'm definitely keeping the big tires though, lol. They are just too cool looking    . If I have higher maintenance, so be it, lol. So a question on the DR Pulley sliders I will need for this machine. 30x18-24g x 8? I can shave $40 off ordering them by size instead of by machine. And is the stock spring ok to clock or will I need an aftermarket spring?  Because of their pure age and condition, I will be replacing the sliders, ramps, wet clutch, drum, and bearing.

Yes, as I remember the 30x18-24gx8 are the right ones. The stock secondary spring MAY be Okay but they did upgrade the the 2014s and 15s with a new one that worked better. Might be worth having especially sense that old one has had to deal with those tires and all that excessive rotational mass.

[Eddiej82770]

Still waiting on parts. I have no patience, lol. So, I have been researching, reading, and thinking. It's amazing how little information there is online for modifying the G1 800's clutches from the manufactures of performance clutch parts. 19 and above- info, 18 and below - crickets. What gives? Did no one modify the older machines? Were they that good out of the factory? I don't think I have ever owned anything with an engine on it that I didn't modify one way or the other. I'm planning on running sliders in the primary and I have the weight pinned down on what I need, so I don't need a kit. I can't find a part number, color, or recommendation online as to which color secondary spring would be right for my application. I've always felt real world recommendations from people running the product is much better than company techs trying to sell you something. Any ideas from the members? Anyone running larger tires with any feedback or recommendations on a secondary spring color or part #?

[NMKawierider]

You just re-clock the secondary. No other spring is needed...other then a new stock spring sometimes. The 800 wasn't all that powerful but clocking and sliders gave it all it needed. Clocking gives you all the adjustment or preload you will ever need. B2 is about the highest the stock 800 can handle and give full shift-out. Its where I am now but the next time I'm in there I'm going back to C1 cause my hot-rod'n days are over. Here, this will help you visualize the preload resistance.

[Grandmaster Splash]

CVT Primary/Secondary pulley modifications
As I have stated on previous posts, I am a great supporter of modifications to one’s ride to improve our ride to match the requirements we demand from the machine. Mainly following this doctrine to make our rides safer and more robust.
This area i.e. CVT Primary/Secondary pulley modifications can be both rewarding and beneficial if one follows the rules of engagement.
Failure to follow the rules of engagement will result in some expensive failures, in the main belt burn outs and costly differing endless combinations of primary and secondary pulley modifications.
So here are a few points that may help in the hope that it assists those who want venture down this path, see attached excel spread sheet which hopefully aids better interpretation of the rules of engagement: -
1.   Does your ride genuinely require this modification, the manufacturer has already done the research for you and has already set the primary/secondary pulleys to their optimum to achieve the best under the majority of driving conditions.
2.   If you are going to seriously race your ride a modification of this type would have to be considered to increase Engine RPM and change the shift points.
3.   If you want to apply this modification just for a mild change then do as much research as you can to ascertain the bespoke modifications to your ride’s primary/secondary pulleys. This is important as the research will save you time and money in that someone else has already done the groundwork for you. Venture into this from scratch and it will cost you time and money however, I respect the fact that some may prefer this method as it provides them with a whole new learning experience that they seek.
4.   The key point to remember is that CFMOTO secondary pulley has a range of letters and numbers that the spring tail is inserted into. The different positions for the spring tail will increase or decrease secondary pulley spring tension. This is fine if one is utilising CFMOTO stock factory springs. However, if one utilises after market springs the changes to spring tensions by inserting the spring tail into different number/letter holes may not provide the same changes to spring tension. Therefore, the aftermarket non factory secondary springs will work but will require more trial and error or more cost and time. At the end of the day, it is dependant on your viewpoint, some may thrive on this experimentation with cost and time being irrelevant. Others may want to consider caution and the impact of cost and time.     

GMSAHFR

[Eddiej82770]

Got a little more done today. I think I found the cause of the crank failure. After I pulled the flywheel I found the oil pump cover with no bolts in it whatsoever. It was slightly opened between the cover and the case. I'm surprised the cover didn't pop off under all the pressure. I'll be checking the tolerances between the blades, and between the blades and the case.

I don't know what happened to the magneto rotor but it is rough and damaged. I ordered a new one this evening. More parts I get to wait on, lol. My favorite pass time I feel like lately.

Also the front piston was installed with the pointer facing towards the exhaust. It appears symmetrical and there was no damage to the cylinder, but I will turn it the right way on reassembly.

And I think I'm going to replace the locking ring for the main output shaft too. It was boogered up quite a bit. It still works but looks bad/gouged.

I'll get it all straightened out. Anyway, that's where I'm at right now. when I get it finished, I'll post a breakdown on the total cost I have in everything.