[85monteSS]

Hello,
Had the infamous oil pressure icon flashing on the display at idle. Checked the oil pressure- 6 psi at idle, warm. Took the CVT cover off today to get to the oil pressure relief valve. 600 miles on the machine now. Everything looks really clean in the passages, no sign of any metal at all anywhere except in the oil filter.( not huge chunks but still some glitter in every pleat) Took the relief apart, spotless. The shop manual says the spring in the relief should have a normal free length of 17mm and to be replaced if at 16mm. Seems too short, mine measures 24mm? My next step, if need be, is to check the oil cooler and associated lines for debri. How is the best way to go about this? remove everything and try blow it out with low pressure air? Really hoping to find something other than bearing damage. I do have warranty but they will have my machine for 2 months ( guessing) to do the same checks I am doing. It seems to be the norm for the shops around here.

[NMKawierider]

Yeah the best thing is to remove the lines at the engine and with 80-100psi air blow it in reverse of its normal travel. Be sure to have the end secured in a bucket or something. If it seems open and free and nothing but oil comes out, just put it back together. But if there was any junk in the oil, I would back flush it with some solvent...or something until it comes out clean. Then blow it dry.

Inspect that relief ball very closely. It doesn't take much of a leak at idle to take it from about 25psi to 6. Just a flake under where it seats is about all it takes..or a good scratch.

[85monteSS]

Alright, will do. Thanks NMK!

[85monteSS]

Well, I got a chance to blow out the oil cooler. Just a few chunks of stuff, nothing really but oil came out. Seemed to blow out easy with about 80 psi air. Not plugged up at all ( blew backwards of flow as suggested) removed  the passenger cover off the engine , the oil pump looks to be under the mag cover ? I just read the post of removing the cover, I guess I have to buy the 42mm cover remover. I have to wait a few days for gaskets and I went ahead and ordered a new oil relief . Maybe the spring in it is collapsing to easily?

[NMKawierider]

According to the service manual the spring length should be 24.1mm and replaced when under 23. I think I would stretch it to 25mm..26mm and see what it does. If it makes no difference is usually means...not always but usually..means its loosing a rod bearing. It can mean a problem with the oil pump too but that's a little more rare.

[85monteSS]

I got the oil pump out today. On a side note I ordered the mag puller tool. I don’t like how it sits in the end of the crank. It worked but now I have to run a tap into the threads because the bolt won’t freely turn in. Just an FYI for anyone pulling their mag.
Anyway upon inspection of the inner rotor I found 4 perfect “ notches” that can be seen plain as day on all 4 lobes in the same spot. Something obviously went through the pump. I’m thinking this may be my low pressure issue? I measured the lobe to outer rotor clearance as well as outer rotor to bore clearance and all is well under max  spec. I used a cheaper electronic caliper I have to measure the depth of the cap protrusion as well as the rotor assembly depth in the bore but I need something better. I’ll have to borrow one from work. But, looking at the rotor assembly as well as the pump cap there is hardly any circular wear marks on either so I think the axial depth is ok.

[NMKawierider]

Yeah and marks of scars will reduce pressure. Replace anything that could be effected. On the puller, us old Kawasaki owners learned a long time ago to never apply that puller pressure straight on the crank. We always put the bolt back in to push against because 8 times out of ten on a Kawasaki.. you will break the end of the crank it's so thin. Then..you are S.O.L....like this guy:


 

[85monteSS]

Oh boy, never thought about using the bolt in the end of the crank. Thanks for the info! Hopefully I won’t have to have it apart for a long time lol. Ok, after going back to the shop and looking more closely at all the pump parts there are more smaller scratches on the lobes and a noticeable radial swirl I can catch a fingernail on on one side of the outer rotor.  Looks like I’ll order the whole assembly.

[NMKawierider]

Oh boy, never thought about using the bolt in the end of the crank. Thanks for the info! Hopefully I won’t have to have it apart for a long time lol. Ok, after going back to the shop and looking more closely at all the pump parts there are more smaller scratches on the lobes and a noticeable radial swirl I can catch a fingernail on on one side of the outer rotor.  Looks like I’ll order the whole assembly.

I think I would too.

[85monteSS]

NMK- what are your thoughts on Amazon parts for Cfmoto ? I can get the whole oil pump assembly for 132$ Canadian. Includes idler wheels, snap rings, shaft, etc There are probably a dozen Chinese companies offering the same products on Amazon. Or should I go to the dealer and buy there? Just wondering if there would be any difference in quality.

[NMKawierider]

NMK- what are your thoughts on Amazon parts for Cfmoto ? I can get the whole oil pump assembly for 132$ Canadian. Includes idler wheels, snap rings, shaft, etc There are probably a dozen Chinese companies offering the same products on Amazon. Or should I go to the dealer and buy there? Just wondering if there would be any difference in quality.

My gut says it's all Chinese so it shouldn't make a difference...however a little bit also says other Chinese companies have to make some slight changes to bring theirs to market so there is some slight risk. I say if there is little price difference, go with the official CFM part. But if there is like a hundred dollars + difference, it might be worth the risk. The plus is that the pump should work as they have to test it...and who knows, it might even be better.

[85monteSS]

NMK- what do you use to keep a paper gasket in place while putting a cover on? As the case of the mag cover on my z800. Dab of grease?

[NMKawierider]

NMK- what do you use to keep a paper gasket in place while putting a cover on? As the case of the mag cover on my z800. Dab of grease?

When using a paper gasket that has no support I tend to spray it with this High-Tack spray as it makes it stay put and give double protection.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex%C2%AE-TackTM-Spray-GasketTM-Sealant/dp/B00337A17Y/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1ZFWN4PPBL8ZW&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.EBSMXGyE0XqYlmcv0FtnuvtaMBbuCn_CcpNx7A1SemVFOaQYJ5N84gHzrtUQKBTrolFKWdAzmSCQBS2d6iBYYr2VOOM_jAQtq07CeBu2bCG8WgEmn_dzommZmkl9uq9iwjEhYUrYe8fMFNt4Dm3yDJjpLw-wnARTQT1obBoG9ZyUVSWfEDTnLvyLTpadRPI8HMz0FiBi8-FIX-CT5NwvMYJkYsUTHEwvQoECBX8IxLRDB1IiFdGxjqRUZbDbQR6QVSMH7GH2sWUczjJkE0eMem-1ecv-c4vzfKyOYNKudSA.3BF9bWemzEMaU-2z66sYkOfhPYLPp6nNkXVbWPvdNk0&dib_tag=se&keywords=high+tack+spray-a-gasket+sealant&qid=1708050875&sprefix=high+tack+spray%2Caps%2C123&sr=8-6
 

[85monteSS]

Thanks for the advice on using gasket spray adhesive NMK, worked great. Only ever used that type of adhesive before and it was when I built a 350 chevy and used shim head gaskets. They recommended copper spray adhesive.
Got everything back together last night. Pressure is up around 20psi at idle, warm. I say "around" because the pressure fluctuates, not rapidly, but slow swings up and below 20 psi.(but not dropping below 10) The same when driving it at higher rpm except the pressure will go up to 40-50, then swing down again. I am assuming that changing the beat up oil pump brought my pressure up from 6 psi to 20ish at idle now. But now I am thinking that their may be another problem with the pick up tube or something is hindering oil flow through the castings, as I am reading in other posts. The oil is right up where it should be on the dip stick, not screwed in. I did blow out the oil cooler more thoroughly and no crap at all came out. I made up a oil cooler bypass with 1/2" hose as well and initially ran it that way after I got it put back together. After hooking the oil lines back up there was no change in  the pressure swings. I am in the process of looking for a waterproof electrical oil pressure gauge. The only other thing I can think of when I changed the oil pressure relief valve is possibly the O ring for it slipped out of the groove when I pushed it into the bore? This was going to be my last attempt at fixing it myself before taking it in but I have a feeling they will put a gauge on it and call it acceptable. So, I guess I will call it a win and hopefully whatever garbage went  through the oil pump is gone now.

[NMKawierider]

You know...there is that pick-up screen that's...well I always assumed..supposed to keep larger trash out of the pump...and they say it needs cleaning at times...although I never have because its a PITA on mine. But..these Chinese engines make a lot of trash while breaking in and there are those out there that have found theirs packed with junk.. I wonder if this screen filters the intake of the pump or does it just screen the sump area where the pickup is. Either way if it can't get it through the screen or.. it can't full the sump faster then the pump is taking it out...the pump either cavitates or pulls-in air which makes the pressure erratic. And is very hard on the pump.