[Cosmosdan]

I have moved this topic from another forum

**THIS OP WILL BE UPDATED AS PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS ARE FOUND. THIS KEEPS THEM IN ONE PLACE FOR EASY REFERANCE**

Hi I'm new to the forum and would like to share my solutions to problems that are coming up now that I'm out of warranty. If you have suggestions or have already had success, please share.

Problem:
Front drive shaft noise.

I have isolated the rattling to the telescoping portion. There is too much play in it.  I removed the entire shaft, pulled it apart,  and used high pressure lube on the spline and outer diameter. Play is now gone.
Update: This lasts for a while but slowly coming back.


Problem:
Shifter lack of positive detent / hard to find gear.

 There is a pin that is in the shifter lever (4mm diameter) This moves out/down when you press the button on the knob. The slot that guides it is too large (5mm) and the material used is way too soft making the slot even larger causing problems with  positive stop and not going into gear correctly.

Solution:
I took it completely apart, drilled and reamed the inner rod for a 3/16 x1 dowel, took a round file and cleaned/smoothed the slot it rides in. You could stop here and reassemble it and it should be a lot better. I didn't due to the softness of the casting, I milled an insert with the shift pattern in it, then a pocket in the bracket. Everything is tight now with a definite click when in position. Pic below.

Problem:
Loss of gear indicator lights. H,L, & N

Solution:
There is a sensor at the end of the shift drum. Opposite the shift lever, driver's side. The sensor picks up a spring loaded  pin as the drum turns. The contacts in the sensor make contact with the pin grounding the light. To test, touch the contacts to a ground. Remove the sensor, it has an oring so it might be stubborn. With the key on, you should see the different indicators light. If not, sensor is bad or the harness. Next check the pin. It should push in and spring out easy. If not, take a T25 torex and remove the plate holding the pin and spring back. Take a needle file and smooth out the neck of the pin and the slot in the plate just enough so they don't hang up on each other. Reassemble with the pin centered in the slot. Put a little white grease on the oring to help the sensor slide in. Pic below

Problem:
Reverse Light Stays on in all gears engaging rev limiter.

Cause: The engine can flex causing the sensor to hit the parking brake bracket

Solution 1: Ground the lead, turning the light off and rev limiter
Solution 2: Replace with updated sensor prt#0180-0123A0. This one is low profile and has a wire lead coming out of the end so the bracket can not hit it.

Problem:
Low power on take off.

Currently looking into this. Could be. Clutching/belt, Air intake, incorrect valve gap, Dust in CVT or restrictive exhaust.

Solution so far:
1. Varatior Rollers looked pretty rough. The stock size is 30x18x25g. I ordered a set from Dr pulley in 24g. I installed the new rollers and did notice that acceleration improved. I will try 23g. If I have to service the clutch again.

Update: The 23g. Not so great for stock tire. Going back to 24g and ajusting the secondary for more backshift.
Update: 7/16/16. Stock rollers(25g.) and secondary at C-1 seems a good trail riding with hills set up
2. Reset valves.

3. Opened up air intake at pipe between seats and removed a portion of the filter holder. Seems to breathe better now, quicker to rev. up.

Problem:
Poor CVT Proformance:

CVT intake letting dirt enter the case, packing the clutches with dust.

Solution:
Added a prefilter for a air filter over the end of it. I should not see this problem again. The filter is 5" dia x 7"long closed end style. Filterwears P/N# K157K

Update: 7/16/16. Fine dust still a problem. Added some bulk air filter rolled up and placed in intake with prefilter over that. Seems better for now. An air box with a filter behind the drivers seat is my next step.

Problem:
Lack of ground clearance.

Solution 1:
I installed a skid plate set from Iron Baltic. It's a nice set and has already saved the underside from damage.

Solution2:
 I did find a 1.5" lift kit at alpha - sports Stock# 19569. A little on the expensive side but looks well made. I might just make my own but picture below. Some members have found the RZR plate lift kits do work with some mods. Search the forum and you will find these topics

Problem:
Creaking/ popping noise from back end when stopping or letting off gas down hill or Rattling noise taking off.

Cause: The rear diff. mounting bracket bolts were loose and some broken. The bolts used were too long and bottomed out on the bracket, jamming them and making it hard to tighten correctly or just snap off.

Solution: Used shorter bolts to mount diff. bracket to frame

Problem:
A Arms bind when fully extended down/ Tires have left the ground

Cause: The Diff. is placed too low in relation to the a arms. This causes the axle shaft to bottom out in the joint stopping travel.

Solution: Move diff. up or shorten CV axle shaft

[Jason]

Nice post thanks for moving that over.  Have you adjusted the springs on yours at all to try and steal a little ground clearance?  I'm about to try it on my Z8 to see if I can't make up a little ground.

[Cosmosdan]

I did try it early on. I remember it being pretty rough ride. I have a ride coming up next week. Maybe I should try again. I'll know right away if it helps when I can clear the edge of the sled trailer without hitting it. I have to put stacked 2x6's under the ramp to side load it. It would be great if they did away with the two protruding sections on the belly.

[Cosmosdan]

Full preload helped with clearance. Just lightly grazed the trailer.

[BearChow]

Problem: Reverse gear rev limiter stays engaged in forward gears and neutral.  This prevents the machine from going faster than about 13mph, and the reverse indicator light remains on, regardless of which gear is selected, in addition to your other indicator lights.  For example, if your machine is in high range, and both the "H" and "R" lights are on.

Cause: The sensor that detects if your machine is in reverse, and thus engages the limiter is located on the top of the transmission, directly under the paneling that covers the base of the parking brake handle.  It sits in a cutout in a bracket that holds your shifter cable, and can be sheared off by this bracket if the engine torques itself under extreme load/stress, like mine did this spring after getting stuck in deep snow.  This causes the limiter to remain on, as a safety feature, regardless of which gear is selected.

Solution:  This is the easy part.  Remove the panel, cut the broken sensor off the end of the wire, strip the insulation from the tip of the wire, and ground it to the frame.  You can just tighten it down under the closest convenient bolt.  The rev limiter will disengage, and not re-engage, regardless of which gear is selected, including reverse.  Keep this in mind the next time you back up, that limiter won't protect you from yourself anymore.  Your little "R" light will also not come on anymore, but the sensor can't be sheared off again either.  Also, you should check to make sure dirt and water isn't able to enter the top of the transmission through the sensor port (unlikely if the other half of the sensor is still stuck in there, but it doesn't hurt to look).

[Cosmosdan]

I have not had an issue with reverse sensor yet. Other models have had this problem too.  The sensor is normally closed  (grounded) when not in reverse. Grounding the lead would get you by in a pinch but I like having the Rev limiter to keep me out of trouble. If I have the need I will make up another mount and post up a picture and a print. If you have a picture, can you post it?

[BearChow]

I'm afraid it didn't occur to me at the time to take a picture.  Building a new bracket is a good idea, but I'm not much of a fabricator.  I just decided to leave it grounded, as I'm fairly certain I'll get it stuck like that again, sometimes the urge to explore gets the better of me, and I go places I shouldn't have.

An alternative might be to wire a toggle switch into the connection, so that if you shear off the sensor, you can ground it out by flipping the switch.  Then you just replace your sensor whenever you get back to civilization.

[Cosmosdan]

I keep some switches in my kit for such an occasion. I will check out the bracket next time I'm in there.

[Cosmosdan]

Reverse switch just broke on me. I will be posting my fix soon. Thanks to Bearchow for the heads up on that one.

[Bpraim]

Do you mean the rev sensor on the top of engine near hand brake?
If so, just ground it out. attach the wire running to it to the frame.
The rev light will not come on when you shift reverse but will harm nothing, done it 50+ times.

[Cosmosdan]

Yes the reverse switch. I did bypassed it for now but I want the reverse light and the Rev limiter. I'm not the only one who drives it and I see the limiter as a good safty feature to have.

[Bpraim]

the engine likes to torque twist under load and smack the sensor.
If you found your in two pcs you now know why.

[Cosmosdan]

I will have to give up on a reverse sensor fix for now. There is a lot of clearance around it now but it did get hit so I will have to look into it later. I have used a bullet terminal in the sensor lead and grounded it to the frame to bypass the Rev limiter.

[Cosmosdan]

There is an updated sensor prt#0180-0123A0. This one is low profile and has a wire lead coming out of the end so the bracket can not hit it. I have added this to my OP list.

[harleyzues]

I bought the 1.5 inch lift and cranked the springs has much better ground clearance now , well worth the investment although I did have to do some mods to the lift for frame fit.