[Coloradocrawler]

Is there a trick on removing dust in the CVT ?  Must the cover be removed and compressed air to blow out the assembly or does the secondary have to be removed ?

Thanks in advance

[NMKawierider]

On the Z8.. I wish there was but realistically one could put a good leaf blower into the intake after taking the filter out, run it and hit it with the blower you would get most of the loose stuff out of the housing and off the clutches but I found the bulk of the stuff built-up under the roller/slider cover on the primary and tucked under the helix and behind the spring of the secondary. That requires removal to get to those areas. That's why I was on that filter kick for a while.

[Coloradocrawler]

NMKawierider,

Is it possible to remove the  CVT cover and use a high pressure H2O to clean out the clutches, then an air compressor to blow out all the water.  If not, looks like I will have to figure out how to take apart the secondary...uggh.

[NMKawierider]

I don't think I would use any water as what's not cleared may bunch up in pockets that air may not get to and cause some balance issues. You might get most of what's in the primary with just air ..and maybe with a special tube rigged get most of what's behind and in the secondary. But it's easy enough to just pull the clutches, inspect and clean then reassemble. Don't have to take the secondary apart... but you may want to re-clock it while there and get some power you didn't know was there...

[Coloradocrawler]

Thanks for the guidance. I will dive into it tomorrow. I have done a complete service (all fluids) from front to back since I got this rig 2 weeks ago. I have learned a lot, but there is always more to learn. I now have left is the CVT. Everything else has been cleaned to showroom levels. I was concerned about my top speed being only 44-46 mph. I don't think the 1st owner re-clock the spring but I will find out. What do you recommend is a good spring setting for stock tires, 5000ft -10,000ft elevation. I will plan to put on 27's but not till next summer. The rig will be for trial riding and hunting.

[Cosmosdan]

For the z6 I used a1 and 25g rollers with stock tires. I like it. Maybe c1 if bigger tires. I tried 23g and 24g sliders. I would not go lower than 24g. 23g felt like it was stuck in some mid gear. I made holders to remove the clutches. Secondary would not have been bad if not for a bit of rust on the nut. Took removing the battery tray and an impact. What did you use for your air and cvt filter?

[Coloradocrawler]

Well long story.... I wanted to change all the fluids, tune up and clean the intake and exhaust tubes for the air, CVT and cooling fan. This site gave me lots of ideas. I used an ITP air filter and where the intake is on the back wall I drilled another approx. 2 in hole (covered with a metal screen) directly across from where the factory one is on the tube. Then covered it with a pre-filter bag secured with zip ties. On the CVT intake and exhaust (after cleaning the tube spotless and using a seal lube putting them back together) I used another bag style pre-filter. I got the part # from this site. I will keep a close eye on both to make sure all is staying clean.

[Cosmosdan]

That was me with the bag over the cvt intake. It did keep the bigger stuff out, but the real fine powder still clogged up the clutches. I'm still working on a filter box for this but it might be awhile. Wife wants the kitchen done. I may have a HVAC shop fab something up to make use of a flat auto filter with a cover. As you will find out soon, it is no fun getting all that dust out.

[NMKawierider]

The other thing I noticed is the dirt and dust that gets in with the rollers or sliders gets ground up into a talc-like power and packs in pretty hard as they work back and forth along with wearing the heck out of the ramps and sliders. This is another reason to get a decent filter on these.

[Coloradocrawler]

Well I torn into the CVT today. Boy was it full of dust. I don't have the the tools to take of the clutches , but I have one hell of a air compressor with all kinds of tube attachments. I does run better. Top end now 48-49 mph. If anyone has the plans for the clutch tools let me know. If someone could build them I would compensate them for time,labor, and parts. 

[NMKawierider]

Really need to get that primary cover off and clear the roller tracks. That's where buildup can effect speed. Any air impact will take the nut off (32mm I think) and you can hold it with a strap wrench if you want on installation. Torque is 80ftlbs. Same for the secondary but its 36mm I think.

[Cosmosdan]

I checked again last time I had to dedust the clutches, mine was a 35mm nut. So I guess have both on hand. You can get by with an adjustable spanner. I did post specs for a holder for the primary and secondary. The secondary was a bit more work for me, but I went fancy

[Wheels]

Clean and cool clutches

[Coloradocrawler]

Okay I am a clocking the clutch on setting it for a1. However I don't know how far I need to spin the outer cone to Make It sit correct in the Helix. So I take it where the spring is in one and turn that all the way over to a.... can someone please give me some advice

[NMKawierider]

Okay I am a clocking the clutch on setting it for a1. However I don't know how far I need to spin the outer cone to Make It sit correct in the Helix. So I take it where the spring is in one and turn that all the way over to a.... can someone please give me some advice

When you get set the spring in the top and bottom holes and start compressing, when your helix is just above slide pads you will hold the helix and rotate the lower section that has the pads on them in the direction that twists the spring smaller or down, not expand it..rotate it to pass the first tower it comes to then continue compressing so the pads will lay against the back of that tower. There should be wear marks on that side to confirm that's the right side of the tower. Make sure the key is installed and the clip is in and in the right position...see the notch where the eyelets set. Release and reinstall. Do clean the sheave surfaces with acetone or other non-residue leaving cleaner. Brakeclean is OK too. If you look at this chart you will see the degrees of preload each setting has. Looking down on it you can see how far you have to go.



Also we have a video in the how-tos on this.  By the way I think you might like C1 better. A1 isn't a big difference. JMO