[dvanslam]

So which one of the relays is the fuel pump the diagram isn't clear what so ever.  Does anyone have a picture of which one it is?  Checked the fuses nothing blown but when key in fuel pump will not prime.  Going to check for power at the connector at fuel pump but I got a feeling because it was running fine, then it just died during a short ride that its a electrical problem and not so much a failing pump.  No fuel at the fuel rail

[NMKawierider]

The wiring diagram is so poor you can't make out the wire colors from...anything but..I have a separate wiring diagram for the Z8s and I assume..boy that's risky..that they used the same color codes on some things there. If so, then they use a O/B colored wire to power the pump from the relay. Now that isn't listed in the key so you have to assume its is two single colors and that would be Orange and Black...so it should be an orage with a black stripe. The relay that has that on the load side should be the fuel pump relay.

Ok..its a long shot with CFM..but worth a try...right?

[dvanslam]

voltage is present at the fuel pump connector, so im assuming that can only mean 1 of 2 things, either the connector inside went bad, or the pump it self is bad.  If anyone has had to change one of these suckers will you let me know what symptoms you had that led you to changing the pump it self.

[dvanslam]

if the relay is bad, there would be no voltage at the connector at the fuel pump correct?

[NMKawierider]

if the relay is bad, there would be no voltage at the connector at the fuel pump correct?

Correct. If there is power and ground to the pump and with the line disconnect it does not run, then the pump motor has failed or become stuck..or the pressure switch thinks it's pressured-up and isn't sending any power to the pump. So..I would pull the pump from the tank, pull the line off the rail, turn the key on. If it runs, reinstall it and try it without being connected for a second. If it doesn't, see if you can check for power right at the pump motor. I don't know where the pressure regulator/switch is but I think it might be on the pump assembly because on my 800, I don't see anything between the filter and the injectors that looks like a pressure regulator.

One other thought- your fuel filter could be completely blocked...rare..but it can happen....and I have heard of a big slug of water doing just that to one once.

[REDRIDER]

if the relay is bad, there would be no voltage at the connector at the fuel pump correct?

Correct. If there is power and ground to the pump and with the line disconnect it does not run, then the pump motor has failed or become stuck..or the pressure switch thinks it's pressured-up and isn't sending any power to the pump. So..I would pull the pump from the tank, pull the line off the rail, turn the key on. If it runs, reinstall it and try it without being connected for a second. If it doesn't, see if you can check for power right at the pump motor. I don't know where the pressure regulator/switch is but I think it might be on the pump assembly because on my 800, I don't see anything between the filter and the injectors that looks like a pressure regulator.

One other thought- your fuel filter could be completely blocked...rare..but it can happen....and I have heard of a big slug of water doing just that to one once.

Do you know if the pressure switch cuts the power or cuts the ground? If he has power at the pump it should run unless the pressure switch cuts the ground. Either way you should be able to jump the ground and power pins from the pump to battery power and ground to see if the pump runs. now which pins those are I don't know I don't have the manual and it seems it's half useless anyway lol.

[dragonmac]

the pins at the fuel pump connector are very tiny...corrosion issues with mine and doing what you described... I drilled a hole down from the top of the pump module and ran a dedicated wire through the hole and silicone it shut...the terminals were completely green and corroded.... has worked fine for the last 300 miles

[dvanslam]

None of the diagrams or parts sites show a pressure switch for the fuel pump, I have officially pulled the entire pump, connectors on both ends see power and removed the pump it self from the assembly and checked for voltage at the pump only getting like .07 volts where im seeing almost 20 across the entire circuit up to that point.  I should be able to run a direct connect positive and negative from battery correct to the pump it self to see if it will fire?

[dvanslam]

Pump does work under direct load..  The relays are located underneath the passenger dash/o-shit bar (safety handle) correct?  I know its not a fuse as ive replaced every fuse in this thing.. I checked all connectors all are perfectly cleaned, Power from connector, Power at the points inside pump and wire has continuity so something has to be stopping voltage to pump it self.

[dragonmac]

Quite sure that the fuel pump relay is the furthest one to the right (of the row of relays)...check for battery power at one of the two LARGE terminals (pin 30 should be power feeding pin 87 when closed)

[dvanslam]

Ok, so i removed all the relays, swapped them all around and even had them all disconnected at one point while my multi meter was connected from the direct connection to the fuel pump that runs from the ECU i imagine.  No voltage drops, steady voltage.  Does anyone know what the operating voltage for the fuel pump connector should be?  The only way i could get a voltage drop is by removing the inline fuse located in the fuse box it self.  Checked for continuity and that was fine.  I did even go as far as checking for continuity at the pump connector located on the pump it self and was able to get the pump to turn under a 12v source.  So even removing all the relays does nothing for the system where it should in theory cause voltage to drop to 0.00v  Voltage does drop when key is on and off, so i know the ecu is communicating with the system, but just to be sure i did inspect all the wires at the ecu don't see any fraying or possible problems.  The orange/blk wire is what runs the fuel pump, the efi system, and the air intake check for the carb, so its currently powering 3 different things, and traced the orange/blk wire back to the relay it self.  I can easily wire in a direct switch for the fuel pump it self off the 12v source, but im really hoping not to do that.  So.. any other ideas before I Jerry rig this thing?  Is the ground wire for the ECU located near the ecu it self, or is it under the drivers seat near the floor of the machine?  I noticed a few different grounds, figured i would start there tomorrow perhaps.  Frustrating 

[dvanslam]

Alright so i finally got in touch with a dealer.  So the fuel pump system runs from battery to relay, from relay to ignition switch, from ignition switch to kill switch, and its basically grounded through ECM has the ECM doesn't have much to do with powering or regulating the fuel pump, being that there is no adjusters/sensors aside from tanking reading (fuel level) sensor.  So what happens is the ignition switches have a terrible design flaw that allows moisture to get into system, whether its inside the ignition and causes the points to corrode, or the kill switch it self has failed bad wire, or broken switch thats not allowing fuel pump to engage.  Im assuming its a faulty wire some where in that circuit or really bad corrosion so now thats my next step to take those apart, clean the shit out of everything and see what I got.  I can assume the kill switch hasn't failed because it still does limit crank, however there is 2 sets of wires that run to it, one for your fuel system and one for your starter system.  So if anyone else was super stumped i would start there.  Im going to inspect that later this week and see if i cant get the old girl firing again, but just wanted to throw out as much information as i could so encase anyone else is running across these problems.

[NMKawierider]

I can say that I had a rocker switch that I installed sideways for my CVT fan blower that got water into it and the contacts on the lower side were under water and did corrode bad enough to not make contact any more where the others were just fine. Point being these switches are not water resistant/proof at all..neither is the ignition switch...for that matter neither are most of CFM's electrical connections. In fact I have found resistance and/or voltage drops through several connectors.

[dvanslam]

Just another fantastic reason to use contact grease of some sort when you take off a connector to load that crap on and at least that will give you some what of a better seal and hopefully keep the toy running longer then a short trip at a time. 

[dvanslam]

So after some cleaning, I was able to get the fuel pump to energize a few times, got it all back together and the damn things doesn't want to run again, no power to the pump Has anyone had problems with the kill switch or ignition switch?  seems like the kill switch is working, but something is stopping power once again back to the fuel pump started worked then completely stopped, followed all the wires across found no issues as far as breaks inside the harness, obviously don't wanna start cutting into it.  This thing is a giant piece of shit.  Don't see any obvious corrosion but clearly something going on.