[Bsmith]

Hey guys I have a 2011  Z force 600 I have tried everything , I just had the motor out of this, Replace the cylinder piston rings time and chain tension or guides, New  valves w   Valve guides and seats, New oxygen sensor, New fuel pump, New Kam and sprocket, Just got a back together my exhaust still glows red hot 30 seconds of idling, Someone please why what is happening, I check the breather on a crank case and it is pulsing back-and-forth on the vacuum, I set my intake 1000 to 2000, Set my exhaust at around 7 thousands, I'm lost for words frustrated, video chat , call me ? Idk

[Bsmith]

I also remove the fly wheel and made sure the Woodruff key was not sheared or Bhatt or chipped

[NMKawierider]

Let me ask this: Was it burning oil before the rebuild and if so, did you clear all the carbon buildup out of the exhaust pipe before re-connecting it? If not, that will be burning off and it will take longer then one would think. The other school of thought is that it's running very lean...but most often at idle it will not develop the heat enough to glow pipe. How's it running? Any hesitation..flat spots in the throttle? How's the exhaust smell? Maybe like old oil burning or coal? Run it a little longer. If you see the red spot in the pipe moving toward the muffler and away from the head...bet it's carbon burning.

[doug80638]

I would hook up a vacuum gauge to diagnose the issue. (Late timing, vacuum leak, exhaust restriction, sticky valves, weak springs, etc)

[Bsmith]

What's not using oil, It was getting red hot before I pulled it out that was the whole reason I bought the machine, Previous owner could not figure it out, That's when I started readjusting the valves put a new fuel pump on, Previous owner supposedly replaced the injector and ECM, I replaced the car boot for the throttle body and gaskets

[Bsmith]

I also replaced the muffler, All the parks that I have put on this are OEM, It was laboring badd before I pulled the motor out and it went to a no run condition and rolled over like a had no compression so I pulled motor, And just pulled it apart to see what I could find was causing all this, When I re installed it tonight in fired, It rolled over a lot better with compression fired right up, Didn't sound to be as loud out the exhaust as it was before it was laboring and Blatt and out the exhaust badd before, It's still pretty throaty out the exhaust but it sounds little more normal at mid range,

[Bsmith]

Doug cannot rule out late timing, Although I spent about 2 hours timing this dam thing, I would get it lined up recheck it get it lined up re check it get lined up recheck it turn the gear on the Cam put it back around the other way go a tooth forward a tooth backwards trying to get a perfect, They could still be off I can't rule that out, I own an automotive center and I work on small engines in cars everyday, So I'm fairly familiar with my way around and roots of the cause of other issues, What this one has me puzzled,  Muffler is new new vows Springs were checked

[Bsmith]

What should vacuum gauge read on the crankcase

[Bsmith]

 Tried to post several videos, In about a minute the exhaust gets red hot, Would a vacuum gauge its actually pushing more air out of the crankcase than to just sucking as a gauge will go below 0, If it was pulling any vacuum at all it would stabilize the needle or raise it  A touch, If I put my fingers in front of the throttle body it will actually cool the exhaust down and it will stop glowing red, Granted right now I don't have my air tubing hooked up would to the air Box but it's doing the same thing as it did before

[NMKawierider]

I guess I would check the air-idle valve and the injector to see if either is sticking. I the valve timing is correct and the spark timing is correct...and the valves are set correctly and no exhaust valves are leaking...then it has to be fuel charge-related. I might also be tempted to do a leak-down test just to se if and how much leakage there is.

[doug80638]

What should vacuum gauge read on the crankcase

I nice steady gauge would imply good timing and no vacuum leaks or restrictions.
Open throttle goes to near zero - then closed goes above 25 and then drops back down to steady (somewhere near 20). I'm gonna guess you won't see that.

Bouncy gauges imply a couple of different issues, low and steady or a steady drop still others.

I'd have to go find my diag book for the list, but I'd guess you can find info on it on the net. A vacuum check can quickly identify the type of problem if you know how to read it.

[doug80638]

I made the assumption that there is an available vacuum port on the motor, but I really don't know, so I hope I haven't pointed you in a wrong direction.

Anyway .... Just in case:

A quick google on the subject found this youtube video. It's a general description but should apply to all 4-stroke motors. They are all just variations of an air pump.

[Bsmith]

There is not a good  Port in the intake for  A vacuum gauge, The only available area I could hook a gay job would be in the  Transmission  Vent, I was thinking that if the crank case gasket or silicone had been leaking that would show into the crankcase vent, I had more positive pressure than I had vacuum on the vent

[Bsmith]

Where is the air idle valve, I have no way of checking the injector, But I do wonder, If the 02 sensor is fuel mapping correctly in the ECM is changing the injection paltz, Or trying to rich and up the mixture , Really wish I had a scanner to look at,

[Bsmith]

it is a zforce 625 not a 600 sorry