[tjhotshot]

Hello, i have gotten some weird issues with my atv. It started with just clicking in the starter solonoid, so i charged the battery. It didnt help, so i changed the solonoid without luck. Used a extra battery with jump leads in case the battery was defect, no change. It just clicks in the solonoid when pushing start button and seems to be cuttting the power for a milisec, because the fuel pump restarts every time you push the button. If i take a wire from the + on the battery and on the solonoid where the signal from the button is coming in, it starts rigth away. I guess i could just make a wire and a button from the battery but i want it to be like original.. I measured 1.0v on the signal from the start button to the solonoid, altso tried to jump the button, just same clicking then. so....any tips where to begin now? And do anybody have a el schematic i could look at  ?

[NMKawierider]

I don't have one for the 450...maybe there is one in the manual and I'll post a link below. But as the solenoid is activated by power through the main fuse, and that CFM has had thousands of main fuse holders ...not the fuses...go bad from bad internal crimps, what you are describing is just what that would do.

https://documentcloud.adobe.com/link/review?uri=urn%3Aaaid%3Ascds%3AUS%3A5d994c28-8265-4e3c-bbba-b30ee3ee46bf
 

[tjhotshot]

naaahhh shit... guess i should find a place to get power from that only has power when the ignition is on, and no power when the engine running.. any tip? Have a kid that loves to honk the horn when we driving, and i dont want her to suddenly push the starter button while running 

[tjhotshot]

guess i could try to take a wire from the aux realy to the solonoid if i have 12v out of the aux, i meausre tomorrow and try to make a fix (Y)

[NMKawierider]

You need to find and fix the real problem. Jerry-rig'n will just get you in trouble somewhere down the road.

[doug80638]

If you bypassed the starter switch by jumping directly to the solenoid trigger, and everything works, then there is likely a dirty/weak connection at the relay, solenoid, or in the trigger wire to the solenoid.

You can jump directly to the trigger from various points in the circuit to find the weak link.

[tjhotshot]

The wire between the AUx start relay is ok, but it seems that the aux relay is not getting the signal to send the power to the solonoid. The signal from the button is ok, so i guess the other one is from the ecu? BUT when i measure the volts in the fusebox, its only 8-9v? And yes the battery is at full power. Bad grounding?

[NMKawierider]

The wire between the AUx start relay is ok, but it seems that the aux relay is not getting the signal to send the power to the solonoid. The signal from the button is ok, so i guess the other one is from the ecu? BUT when i measure the volts in the fusebox, its only 8-9v? And yes the battery is at full power. Bad grounding?

May be but a cold connection or burned internal connection anywhere in the source for the fuse box can also take the voltage down. I suggest testing at the battery, then before and after the main fuse first. If it drops after the main fuse, it's as I said about the main fuse holders. If not, continue outward.

[tjhotshot]

I rhink my atv is haunted...i fitted a new battery just to be sure, 12.4 at the fuses on both sides of them. 12.4v to the  aux relay where it supposed to be.  12.4 from the starter button to the aux relay. But NOT to the f*c*ing starter relay. Works fine if i jump bethween the bl/g and the y/r (to the start solonoid) in the relay holder. Then it starts right up.

[tjhotshot]

And yes i have tried to change the starter aux relay

[NMKawierider]

And yes i have tried to change the starter aux relay

Go to the main fuse and test the power AFTER the fuse while the key is in the starter position. If it is low, replace the fuse holder...many hundreds have had bad internal crimps. Otherwise test it at the switch.

[tjhotshot]

Its 12.4 on every f*c*ing fuse i have found and measured. I think its time to just put on a new button and jerryrig it

EDIT: Let's watch the language. Children may be reading. NMK

[doug80638]

I don't have a wiring diagram for that model so the following is hopefull information.

The Zforce has two aux relays before the starter relay. Aux starter relay 1 and 2. They are tied to various safety cut-offs like brake relays and the ECU to prevent the starter from turning over for such things as the transmission being in gear but the brake is not pressed.

Is it possible that the 450 is similarly wired (I would think so!)?

One relay has a normally closed contact. It's job is to make sure conditions are correct for starter operation. If not, the contact is forced open. Otherwise it passes the signal to the other relay.

The other relay is what fires the starter relay. It has a normally open contact that is forced closed when the ignition is turned to start. If both relay contacts are closed, the starter relay coil gets and we're off to the races.

If you bypass these relays, you are bypassing the safetys.

You have found that the path stops at the relay(s). Now you need to find out which safety is preventing the relay contact from staying closed.

[tjhotshot]

But would a faulty safety switch cause This clicking in the solonoid? Its no life in the solonoid if i try to push the button when in gear. And no diffrent when pushing the brakes

[doug80638]

I mis-wrote my last post and have corrected it. I am talking about two AUX start relays.

The clicking at the solenoid is due to low voltage/current from the starter relay.

You've traced the good voltage to one of the AUX relays and found the low voltage at the start relay. I'm only suggesting that the reason for the low voltage needs to be found and corrected. That could be a dirty/weak connection at a safety switch, a bad AUX relay, or a bad wire.

Did you find two AUX relays?  There are two sources of voltage to each AUX relay, and they both have to be good. One line powers the coil, and one is passed through switch when the relay is closed (single pole relays).

If the two AUX relay switches are closed, and voltage is good to both, then the starter relay coil will energize. If voltage/current is low from the AUX relay to the starter relay coil, then the starter relay switch contact will be weak and intermittent resulting in the solenoid clicking.

And remember that the Brake relay is wired to one of the AUX relays and it too needs to provide good continuity. So that's 4 relays to test the in-and-outs of.

Again, this assumes the 450 is wired similarly to the Z.