[Tallie18]

Hello all, 

Doing first service and I'm checking the valves for accurate gap with feeler gauge.   I've got the cam sprocket in the correct spot according to service manual and I have no gap on any of the valves.   Has anyone else discovered this on yours.  I've had a hard start since I purchased it, taking 3 to 4 times to finally crank and stay running.   Thanks for your responses!

[NMKawierider]

Hello all, 

Doing first service and I'm checking the valves for accurate gap with feeler gauge.   I've got the cam sprocket in the correct spot according to service manual and I have no gap on any of the valves.   Has anyone else discovered this on yours.  I've had a hard start since I purchased it, taking 3 to 4 times to finally crank and stay running.   Thanks for your responses!

Don't go just by the lines on the cam sprocket as you can be 180 out..ie TDC of the exhaust stroke verses TCD of the compression stroke. If on the wrong stroke you will be in the "Overlap" zone of the valves where both are in transition and neither will have any gap as both are slightly open. Confirm that you are on TDC of the compression stroke by rotating the engine in its normal direction while watching the intake valves on the cylinder you are working on. Rotate until the intakes open(go down), the return to the closed position(Back up). From that point it's 1/2-turn to the top of the compression stroke. From that point you can use the cam sprocket marks if you with but it isn't necessary as you have more then 20 degrees either side of TDC to make your adjustment. Set all valves on that cylinder mid-range per the manual the repeat for the other cylinder. Cake. If yours do end up being too tight, that will be the main reason it was hard to start...it also makes then leak while running which in time burns the valve seats & faces. This is whay it's a good idea to at least check them on the first service...if not before.