[Hutcho]

I have a 2019 zforce 1000 which started to show the oil light and beeping, it would last well over 5 seconds(Which if around 5sec I tend to put down to pressure building) my issue would last for longer than a minute after starting and come on and off when driving.

I have replaced the oil and changed the oil filter using he recommended filter and oil I have also removed the pressure switch to install a pressure gauge tester.
When idling around 1400rpm I'm seeing around 40-45PSI which I understand is near the top end of the operational range. Due to the idle value, I haven't yet tested at a higher rpm. I wanted to first check what you guys thought.
Just to add the pressure needle wasn’t bouncing around it would stay reasonably constant when idling, starting near 50psi before moving slowly down as the engine temp increased.

From the manual I understand the Oil Pressure operating values to be:
1300rpm @90C Low=100kPa(14.5psi) | High=400kPa(58psi) | Recommended=200kPa(29psi)
6000rpm @90C Low=350kPa(50psi) | High=700kPa(101psi) | Recommended=580kPa(84psi)

I'm thinking of dropping the oil, changing/cleaning the oil strainer, and replacing the pressure relief valve.
Any other thoughts on what could be the cause?

[NMKawierider]

I had not heard of a pressure switch having a high-pressure trip, only low pressure so this is something new however if your readings are correct and it does in fact exceed the upper limits, the relief valve would be the first thing to look at IMO. May only be something binding/sticking it but make sure the tracks to and from it are free of any materials. Some have found parts of gaskets and RTV in places you would not believe. Some have also found junk in the oil cooler restricting flow back to the engine. Sad. Other then that, it may just be a bad sensor...of which there were many.   

[doug80638]

The oil light/beep is for low pressure, not high pressure. 

If it's anything like the 800 and 500, it has a high pressure spring loaded dump valve to avoid over pressurizing.

My 2017 Z8 shows 25psi at idle (warm).

I would suspect, since you've proven the oil pressure is OK, that the connection to the oil sensor is flaky, or the oil pressure sensor is faulty.

This is a common failure with CFMoto.

[Hutcho]

Thanks for your input. I wasn’t aware the pressure switch only triggered at low pressure. It sounds like I have a faulty pressure switch which with further investigation identified a possible high pressure issue.

I have a new pressure switch to install once I have finished testing the pressure. I will continue with my plan to drain the oil and replace the pressure valve. Do you think it’s worth checking and cleaning the oil strainer at the same time? Also in terms clearing debris from within world you suggest flushing oil through with the valve out?

Also Is it worth taking the pump apart and inspecting while the oil is out? Normally I would only try and change one thing at a time but since the oil will be drained it might make sense to check as much as possible.

[NMKawierider]

First, finish testing the actual oil pressure at temperature and RPMs. If it's within the range outlined in the manual, it must be a bad switch/sensor. As I recall, the pressure relief is just a spring and ball..and I have an image of it accessible from the filter side of the case..at least on the 800s. If I had an issue..I might be tempted to start it for a "brief second" with it open but no longer...and expect a mess. 

If you can get to the strainer easily on the 1000s, sure, do it. I have not on my 800. 

[doug80638]

The only time you need to worry about high oil pressure is if it exceeds spec at high RPM.

Test it. If it doesn't level out at some point, then look into the valve. Otherwise, don't make more work for yourself.

The pump is clearly working. I would leave it alone.

[NMKawierider]

Hard to rap my head around a CFMoto with too much oil pressure. It's always been too little...lol

[Hutcho]

Thanks, I like the idea of not creating work for myself.

I’ll test pressure at temp and higher RPM as suggested and report back.

[Hutcho]

Hi sorry for the delay, only just found time to run a pressure test.
So the results are as follows.
1350RPM - 20-25Psi
7500RMP - 80Psi

Both within the recommended operating range.

I have left the pressure valve and strainer alone and installed a new pressure switch.

To add to my original message explaining the issue I forgot to say that I noticed a loss of power while the oil light and beep was happening. I know the pressure sender is connected to the ECU could the ECU switch to limp mode when the oil light is on for a prolonged time? I didn’t see a check engine light when losing power.  I just trying to determine if this loss of power was related to a faulty oil pressure switch or if I have another issue??

[NMKawierider]

It could but the most important thing is it does have the correct pressure so the engine is fine.

[Hutcho]

Thanks, it was a worry and this has returned some confidence. I’ll be taking it out for a test drive in the next few days and will monitor the situation.

[NMKawierider]

I've been thinking hard about putting a real gauge on mine too.