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Zfroce Front Diff R/R
« on: August 01, 2018, 09:12:20 AM »
I had to rebuild my front diff, so I took a few pictures and figured I would give a how to on the R/R of it. Now when I looked at it my MAIN question was, do you have to remove an upper control arm to get the diff out, and many of you may be asking the same thing as the rest is pretty basic. For that quick answer, YES you have to remove one of the upper control arms to get it out, I chose the drivers side but either would work i am pretty sure
Now for the how to
Note that not all of the pictures are from the same side as I was kinda snapping pics as I though of. Also note that I have a lift so my upper control arms show the lift brackets on the lower shock mount.
lift up the front and the rear put it on stands
remove the front wheels
The remaining steps I will state for the drivers side, both sides are essentially the same except I removed the diff and the upper control arm from the drivers side
remove the caliper and move it out of the way, tie it up or place it inside the frame somewhere it wont fall. Remove the brake line mounts.
Remove the cotter pin and axle nut. give a push on the axle end to make sure it is free, if it is sticking you can use a piece of wood or dead blow hammer to give it a few taps and it should free up. It isn't going to move much just enough to see that it is not stuck in the knuckle bearing and hub splines

pull off the Rotor, it should slide right off the axle spline after the nut is removed.
Remove the lower portion of the shock, tie it up out of the way with some wire or rope to give you room
Remove the cotter pins from the tie rod end and remove the nut. To get the tie rod end out there are a couple methods. I use a controversial method of hitting the knuckle where the tie rod stud runs through it, takes a couple spirited whacks and will pop out, these are cast knuckles so i felt ok doing it, I am a little more careful on aluminum ones. The other way I have seen people do it is with a fork tool that hammers in to separate them, I personally don't use this method to avoid damage to the boots.

Remove the upper ball joint cotter pin and nut, use whichever method you like to break the ball joint stud free of the knuckle, again a couple whacks with my method worked fine for me.
Once that is free will be able to let the top of the knuckle flop down and you push the axle out of it to free the CV shaft from the knuckle
Pop the axle out of the front diff, one of mine the retaining clip was gone so it pulled right out, the other side I popped out with a pry bar, they came out easy for me the retaining clips are pretty weak.

remove the upper control arm (i removed the drivers side) The bolt is VERY long. I have a rival front bumper and I wasn't going to remove that So i actually drilled a hole through my bumper Which I will now fill with a tow hook. You will have to remove the front bumper plastic piece, not sure exactly how to do that as i drilled right through it but I am sure it is pretty easy. My aftermarket bumper is not easy.

Now for the front driveshaft. I watched or read something that a guy removed his center console assemble plastic and easily accessed the bolts. I did not do this. I hate removing all those plastic panels. I found it fairly easy this way. From the drivers side look to the rear of the diff and you will see the driveshaft bolts.

Put the machine in neutral and turn the shaft until one of the bolts is facing you as seen in the picture. put it back in park (this is why i said to raise the front and rear in the air in the beginning) I was able to get a socket and my flex head ratchet on there to break it free, then used a ratchet wrench to back them all the way out. Most once broken free I was able to remove with my fingers (they went back in harder on the install though). repeat for all 4 bolts. once unbolts I had to use a pry bar to separate the shaft and push it back far enough to slide it over and off of the pinion.
Remove the diff vent tube it is accessed from the drivers side and has a small pinch clip I was able to remove with my fingers.
Unplug the front diff. Do NOT unplug it as the module itself, the two plugs run into the same harness and unplug at a single plug a foot or two into the harness, its under the storage bin and covered with a dust cover. You can see it unplugged in the picture

Now you can unbolt the diff. Its 3 bolts on the bottom, one on each side on the front and one nut and bolt through the rear

 I used a pry bar to lift the diff out of the mounting points once unbolted then I was able to pick it up by hand and pull it out the drivers side (whichever side you removed the upper control arm on) carefully as to not smash fingers.

The reinstall is the reverse and pretty easy. I will give you one tip. for the rear mount of the front diff I had a hard time getting it to align and go back in. I ended up slightly bending out the ears on that mount so it would slide back in easier. It didn't need much, don't go mangling your mount it just needed a little bit and it pulled right back together once bolted down. If I missed anything I will edit but this should be a fairly easy job for anyone. I didn't time it because i did it in pieces since I had to rebuild the diff and could only work on it in small increments as it has been way too hot but I would say overall the R/R took me about 2.5 hours. I also have a cordless impact that makes some things go faster.


Offline NMKawierider

Re: Zfroce Front Diff R/R
« Reply #1 on: August 01, 2018, 09:19:32 AM »
Nice!. Thanks for posting.
2015 Z Force 800 (53") EPS -
Custom Air Intakes | Custom Exhaust Mod | SuperATV Harness | Custom Fenders | Custom Skid/Rock Sliders | 27" GBC Grim Reapers | Seizmik Mirrors |Конструктор (Rodin's) Doors | Dr Pulley Sliders | 1.5" Wheel Spacers | BENZ Silencer (as needed) | SATV Flip Windshield W\ Rear Shield | Dual Light Bars | Diamond Plate Storage | 9.7" GPS | Bandit Springs Rear & Gen-3 Shocks Front

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Offline Sockman

Re: Zfroce Front Diff R/R
« Reply #2 on: October 05, 2018, 05:00:19 PM »
Thanks for posting this.  Going through mine right now. I noticed that your right front mounting tab is egg shaped, like an upward force caused it to mis-shape the tab.  Both of my front tabs tore completely through, upward.  Plan to weld in a stronger tab in the front, and bend the rear mounting tabs back into place since they were both pulled forward. 
2017 Zforce 800 EX
UNI filter, SuperATV high clearance a-arms, half windshield, nerf bars, Windjammer rear window, overhead storage, Bighorns, Bandit suspension Gen3 shocks, rear camera



Re: Zfroce Front Diff R/R
« Reply #3 on: October 08, 2018, 02:36:09 PM »
well we will see how long it lasts then I will be making stronger mounts as well lol.