[bajaBeachBum]

Hi all,
Was about home yesterday when the engine just seemed to quit. Coasted to a stop and noticed the fan was not blowing even though it was at running temperature.
Did not crank and still doesn't this morning. Plenty of fuel, coolant and oil  - but the slight noise that usually starts when the key is engaged is not being made, assume that is the fuel pump pressurizing the system?

This is my first breakdown and am hoping for some expert advice before i start probing and dismantling.

2017 zforce 800ex - 3300k

[doug80638]

As is typical, it's hard to diagnose with such limited detail, but to me,  the description sounds like a simple electrical issue.

Did someone accidentally hit the kill switch?

If not, I'd first start looking at fuses and then check that voltage is getting to vital components.

[NMKawierider]

Yeah check the obvious stuff first like the kill switch and fuses, then pull the fuel line off and turn on the key to see if it is getting any. If not, start looking for reasons there.

[bajaBeachBum]

Forgive my newness to the vehicle, but I don't even know where the kill switch is or what it looks like... Is there any material that could help me out so I don't flood the forum with elementary stuff?

I dropped the panel underneath the instrument cluster and just see a bunch of connections with some terminating into fuse/relay/other looking things.Will I need to take off the entire hood - seems like a bit of a chore to get access to the areas where I see the harness going.

Thanks for bearing with me as I jump into the deep end

[doug80638]

Kill switch is on the dash, top row.

[bajaBeachBum]

For some reason i considered that to be the "run" switch. I've had kill switches hidden in previous cars I've owned to make hotwiring more difficult.

I believe i have heard the fuel pump begin pressurizing in the past when the key was just turned to the first position even with the kill switch engaged - is this correct operation?

[NMKawierider]

For some reason i considered that to be the "run" switch. I've had kill switches hidden in previous cars I've owned to make hotwiring more difficult.

I believe i have heard the fuel pump begin pressurizing in the past when the key was just turned to the first position even with the kill switch engaged - is this correct operation?

On most CFM's, that kill switch stops the fuel pump and the ignition system. A side not- those switches are not water proof and do fail quite often. Also, if the fuel pressure is already up, the pump won't come on so..pull that line and see..

[bajaBeachBum]

Ok, pulled the lines - only a drip or two of gas leaked out, no pressure for sure.

Got the hood off, swapped all the relays and verified the two fuses under the drivers seat are good. Sadly still no crank.

Not sure how to bypass the kill switch, test the ignition switch or if current is getting to the fuel wip - unclear on which wires do what

[NMKawierider]

Ok, pulled the lines - only a drip or two of gas leaked out, no pressure for sure.

Got the hood off, swapped all the relays and verified the two fuses under the drivers seat are good. Sadly still no crank.

Not sure how to bypass the kill switch, test the ignition switch or if current is getting to the fuel wip - unclear on which wires do what

Then my friend..you probably best take it in.

[doug80638]

Does the dash light up when you put the key on?

[bajaBeachBum]

Yes, dash lights up and goes through its test - runs through the numbers and lights the fasten seat belt sign

[doug80638]

That eliminates a few things at least.

Need to chase down power paths. Is the battery fully charged (12.5+ volts)?

The easy first step is to check all the fuses and be sure the contacts are clean and tight, and that power is getting to the fuses. It gets more difficult after that.

Is the ignition switch passing power through in the start position?

If so:

Is there power delivered to the fuel pump when the key is in the start position?

Is there power at the starter relay when the key is in the start position?

If not , is power getting to and past the relays?

Trace, trace, trace.

There are a couple of "safety" cutouts that perhaps you can look at. For instance, the starter will not turn if the transmission is in gear and the brake is not depressed. The Kill switch is another. I seem to recall there is one more; perhaps Clark might know.

Troubleshooting electrics can be tricky and time consuming requiring a great deal of patience. There are wiring diagrams available if you are up for it.

Clark's advice may be best. The dealer should have a device that would diagnose this fairly easily.

[TJDJERRY]

Sounds like it may be as simple as a bad fuel pump (or no power to the fuel pump).  It died while running and won't start again.  Fuel pump doesn't kick on when the switch is on or you would hear it.  I'm not sure that the radiator fan runs if the engine isn't running, regardless of how hot it might be, so I'm not sure that is indicative of anything.

[bajaBeachBum]

Battery is good, kill switch tests good, fuel pump runs when fed direct, starter turns when fed direct.

However... one of the lines under the driver seat registers voltage where the other does not. Even when turning key to on and to start. Not sure which does what as the wires to both fuses are both red & red/white. Are there more fuses?

Would be open to looking at a schematic if a link was given.

[TJDJERRY]

Battery is good, kill switch tests good, fuel pump runs when fed direct, starter turns when fed direct.

However... one of the lines under the driver seat registers voltage where the other does not. Even when turning key to on and to start. Not sure which does what as the wires to both fuses are both red & red/white. Are there more fuses?

Would be open to looking at a schematic if a link was given.

https://www.manualslib.com/products/Cfmoto-Zforce-800-Ex-4106086.html